No charge on a 1985 GL 1200SE - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Ocala, FL
Year: 2008
Make: Honda
Model: GL1800
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No charge on a 1985 GL 1200SE

Hi helping a friend with his 85 1200 getting under 12volts at idle found short from stator wires by the connector next to battery. Repaired the wires eliminated the connector by battery. Checked the voltage regulator seems like the same wire that was short at the stator wire next to battery was also over heating the connector at the regulator. Cleaned it up and checked voltage at the stator 2 of three wires read 11.8 third was 8.6 he ordered an regulator but it seems that the stator needs to be changed as well. Max we get is 13.20 at 3,000 rpm. Thanks in advance for any help..
Joe
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 06:09 PM
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That sounds like the regulator is one of the non OEM type. Logic tells me that it's limiting voltage a little too much... However...

How sure are you of the tester's accuracy, and, could it be the battery is fully charged and therefore the regulator isn't pumping a lot of juice into it.

Do a search for a proper test of the stator, just to be sure, but the SEi and LTD stators were pretty tough.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Pretty sure on voltage readings I don’t have access to values for stator voltage. Just that the should be close in numbers. Battery was charged, my friend stated that the bike always ran at high 12’s 13 volts on his gauge.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 06:37 PM
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I hope you are not trying to test DC volts at the stator wires, 'cause those are AC power, you might get some sort of DC reading due to the action of the regulator but it won't be representative of what's really going on.

Proper way to measure the stator is with it disconnected. measure between two of the three wires, with engine at 4000 RPM you should see between 50-70 VAC. Repeat the test between one of the wires you just measured and the one you did not. And again from that wire and the first. You should get about the same AC voltage each test. Also measure AC volts between one of the wires and the engine (ground). With engine running there should be no voltage, if you get a reading there's an insulation breakdown in the stator.

With the stator re-connected, you should see over 13 volts DC at the battery at 4000 RPM.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks will recheck and confirm 👍🏼
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 08:37 AM
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Here is how to test the stator per Roscoepc, one of our members here. I found this in my notes.


Stator Test - by roscoepc

1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for shorts. Should have infinite resistance. If no shorts are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohms. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wires separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warms up.

IMPORTANT!!!

You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!

With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.

Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.

Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.

Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70 vac plus or minus about 5 vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator or a bad/burned regulator connector.

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Larry

Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks 👍🏼
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
That sounds like the regulator is one of the non OEM type. Logic tells me that it's limiting voltage a little too much... However...

How sure are you of the tester's accuracy, and, could it be the battery is fully charged and therefore the regulator isn't pumping a lot of juice into it.

Do a search for a proper test of the stator, just to be sure, but the SEi and LTD stators were pretty tough.
Having lost my ltd stator @ 25k, honda came out with a lifetime replacement, which all 1200 series is denoted by a white band near the plug like these two:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-OEM-S.../202490096404?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-COIL.../142397375883?

Calif Wing Nut 1976-2018 Gwoa 1976-Gwrra 353 1978 Life- Cwef 82-Agwa 84-Gwta 87-Cwc 90.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:14 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Missouri
Year: 1985
Make: Honda GL1200 Limited Edition
Model: 1981 gl1100 Interstate 1985 gl1200 Limited Edition
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Mine went out on my 85 LTD and I did the alternator set up. It was easy to do and it took a couple days and under $250.00 and it was the best thing I ever did. HIGH OUTPUT AMP MINI DENSO STYLE ALTERNATOR FOR CHEVY STREET ROD RACE CAR 1 ONE WIRE HOOKUP SYSTEM 70AMP. This is on Amazon for like $115.00 with shipping.

Thanks to all who answer and spread the knowledge! It is greatly appreciated. Ed
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-07-2019, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joen View Post
Hi helping a friend with his 85 1200 getting under 12volts at idle found short from stator wires by the connector next to battery. Repaired the wires eliminated the connector by battery. Checked the voltage regulator seems like the same wire that was short at the stator wire next to battery was also over heating the connector at the regulator. Cleaned it up and checked voltage at the stator 2 of three wires read 11.8 third was 8.6 he ordered an regulator but it seems that the stator needs to be changed as well. Max we get is 13.20 at 3,000 rpm. Thanks in advance for any help..
Joe
Hello Joe! I've got a question.. Is this an '85 Ltd Ed/Fuel Injected model?? The reason I ask is that the Ltd Ed uses a different regulator than the '85 Aspy or Interstate due to the Ltd Ed having a larger stator: 500watts vs 360watts... The OEM Shindengen regulator can be found at RegulatorRecitifier.com...


I've always recommended removing/hardwiring/soldering all the connectors in the charging circuit from the stator connector all the way to the replacement of the 30amp dogbone fuse on the stater solenoid with an in-line fuse. It's what I did with my bike back in '07 and she's been good to go ever since!!


@ Bellboy40: Thanks for the Plug!! Nice to know People read my post's!!!
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Don

1985 Gl1200 Limited Edition
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