'91 1500 SE - Fuel system..... - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 06:05 PM
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They stopped putting a fuel pump relay after '89 so his fuel pump will run for a second or two when the ignition is turned on, ,, then it shuts off until the engine starts.


You only need to pull the right saddlebag back out of the way, , , the BAS is in front of the trunk underneath the right side passenger "pocket".
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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OK. I got the bag out of the way. Using the manual I am still having a hard time identifying the different parts that might be the problem. My next thought or only alternative I see in the short term is pulling the power wire off the fuel pump & replacing it with one that produces 12 volt when I turn the key to the run position. Does anyone see where this could get me into trouble or do you think it would be acceptable???

If ya cant fix it with a hammer, it's prolly lectrical
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:06 PM
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Hatchetman, You have a 1991 SE, it has cruise control.

Press the cruise "ON" switch, turn the ignition on. If the cruise "ON" light in the dash illuminates the BAS is good.

Ah.....yes the fuel pump is powered from the ECM on your 1991 Wing.

Have you (or someone else) added a Hondaline CB on your bike. If so, power from the ECM goes through a "fuel pump filter" then to the fuel pump. Its a small square black box on top of the fuel pump. This filter is part of the CB kit.....!!
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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No CB install. I will go check the cruise thing now. Crazy because it ran great & was just parked for the winter. I really hope I don't need an ECM!

If ya cant fix it with a hammer, it's prolly lectrical
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:34 PM
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This thread is chock-full of good information about the 1500 "no start" problems, , ,

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ght=start+tips
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Im gona read a lil more. I put power to the fuel pump & as soon as I started cranking it filled the fuel filter & fired right up. I ran it for 2 minutes & then pulled the jump wire. It shut down immediately. If I cant figure this out I think I will bypass the factory power wire with a switched power wire.

If ya cant fix it with a hammer, it's prolly lectrical
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:26 PM
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This is probably what you need.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1500 ECU repair.pdf (218.1 KB, 22 views)

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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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The pics help a lot! Not sure how far Im going to drive to find the parts but that's another issue for later. Where do I find the main fuse block? I have only found a small one on the left side near the foot peg but nothing marked ignition or fuel.

If ya cant fix it with a hammer, it's prolly lectrical
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatchetman View Post
The pics help a lot! Not sure how far Im going to drive to find the parts but that's another issue for later. Where do I find the main fuse block? I have only found a small one on the left side near the foot peg but nothing marked ignition or fuel.
It's not a fuse. That is the main fuse box though.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 10:32 PM
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The fuse block is on the left side above the passenger footpeg and the relay block is just behind the fuse block.


Your fuel pump gets power from the ECM (ECU) which is a "flattish" black "square-ish" box with a large group of wires feeding into a large (maybe 20 wires) connector. The ECM is a bit larger than the old "Prince Albert" tobacco tin/can but is similar in shape.


The ECM is where your right knee hits the tupperware, so you have to remove the centershelter, and the piece on the right side that curves around and has the vents/buttons on it.


The manual says how to check the ECM-fuel pump (pin 14, IIRC). I had a bugger of a time checking for a signal UNTIL I took an old "spade" connector laying around, and used dykes to cut half off, leaving one "leg" of the spade. Its easy to use the one leg into the connector on the ECM and fit the probe onto the part of the spade that would be crimped when a wire is inserted. That ECM connector can be a b**tch to uncouple from the mate unless you squeeze the locking tabs correctly.
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