2003 Won't start now - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Redwing I will try the test today no you won't offend me I understand just because it clicks doesn't make it good. After going through what the book states it makes a lot of assumptions if it clicks it must be good.
Dave yes the neutral light is on.
Again Thanks I'll have lots of time raining now for next 4 days

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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Just got done testing the A/B solenoids using 2 volt meters both show 12+ volts. But still no crank. Any ideas are welcome.

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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:39 PM
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Just got done testing the A/B solenoids using 2 volt meters both show 12+ volts. But still no crank. Any ideas are welcome.
All 4 studs show 12 volts? The big studs with the battery type cable on them?
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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, they do.

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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 01:56 PM
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If you have power from both of the b studs the issue has to be a bad connection at the starter, Starter is no good or a bad ground. Is the battery connections tight and clean and the ground cable tight and clean at the engine? Essentially you are saying you have power at the point I noted here on the attached. If you have power there then there is not much between that point and the starter. Do you have 12 volts at the starter stud?
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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, 12 volts at all the lugs. The ground on the engine was cleaned but no real corrosion.
I inadvertently pushed the RVS switch while watching the meters nothing happens with it either. Just saying I thought the reverse mechanism would switch positions maybe it has to be running. I had to install a new cable on it a few years ago and I thought it would move without the bike running. Not sure.

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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:16 PM
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You have power from the battery and through a/ You have power to and through b. There is only a cable that goes from B to the starter. It has to be in that area. If you can ground your voltmeter to the starter case and check power at the starter stud for 12 volts.If you get 12 volts the starter is bad. very unusual and I doubt the starter failed.

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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 02:20 PM
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Yes, 12 volts at all the lugs. The ground on the engine was cleaned but no real corrosion.
I inadvertently pushed the RVS switch while watching the meters nothing happens with it either. Just saying I thought the reverse mechanism would switch positions maybe it has to be running. I had to install a new cable on it a few years ago and I thought it would move without the bike running. Not sure.
You can forget all the confusion about relays, reverse etc. If you have 12 volts at B solenoid all that is OK. You just need to get the 12 volts from B to the starter. That is ALL that is left!

Edit: Wiggle the cable on the starter. Is it tight? Things like that.

Mike

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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Can I see the starter lug without pulling the fuel tank? I can see the starter from the right side, is there a way to access it. Such as removing the battery tray from the left.

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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 05:13 PM
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Can I see the starter lug without pulling the fuel tank? I can see the starter from the right side, is there a way to access it. Such as removing the battery tray from the left.
No way to get to the starter or the stud without removing the fuel tank, thankfully it's not that hard to do. And there are a couple things you can do while in there, like cleaning up the main ground and tightening the coolant hose claps.

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