I don't care what size the wheel is, I just work with what I have for simplicity and COST. the bike is OLD with unknown miles (odo broke b4 I got it, didn't notice it when I bought it). not real well maintained, rear end had abt half the oil in the diff that it shd have had, no one ever checks/changes diff oil in anything... first thing I do. good money after bad, probably already past that point now.
if the ignition pick ups go bad on the back of the motor (swing arm has to be removed to get to parts that are no longer made ... for that year. ignition pick ups moved to front of motor under timing belt covers on the 85> models) that is more work that I care to do. first bike, shd have waited a little longer, done more research, got a NICER BIKE with an ODO that WORKED. lessons learned. $1500 bike with ~$800+ worth of work, a conservative estimate, of things that HAD to be dealt with, tires/brakes/fork seals... and it is still a ~$1500 bike (being optimistic)
oh seller polished it up, looked good, I was tired, after being up for too long, I bought it. ran well enuf, started well, looked ok, but was not well maintained, left outside.... to the point... ride it for a while longer... FOR SALE and get something newer/nicer that hasn't been through 10 owners. it is a CA bike, complete with pollution controls. didn't know that, although the pollution controls are minimal, still more things to go wrong/be in the way.
I don't trust it to the edge of town and back to be honest (no AAA Premium $110/yr) . its like a big scooter to me. im too big to ride a scooter. saw a 1500 for $1800 not long ago, it is gone now. or get the 1000/1100 naked/bobber, seen those too. they don't sell to well.. once made into bobbers seems like? . just have to KNOW that ... will be keeping a bobbed GL for a LONG time, rest of my days as a "bobber" is generally HD, yes? something simple to tinker with. I don't know.
I got new MC tire on it now, the tire will dry out / delaminate before it even becomes close to wearing out. I just thought I would TRY to get the CT on the MC wheel. u tube vid's seemed to show it was doable. im old, it took most everything I had (n not have heart attack) to get the tire/wheel off/on and put on coil overs, clean up splines/grease same (took pin drive out of hub on this bike, I don't think it had EVER seen any grease of any kind... rusty but HARD steel and the rubber drive cushions were good. dremel'd out the rust in the steel sleeves/cleaned pins/greased them up/re assembled=good for the remainder of the bikes/my life). I don't want to do it again.
if I wasn't some kind of gearhead that bike would be ... expired, by now from lack of oil in final drive and other PM's. love to have ...decent 1500 for decent price. 93 was first year for roller rockers and taking cruise control off motor for more consistent cruise RPM's... if cruise works? if I was a younger man, I might try to swap out the finals for 1500, but if I cld get a decent 93> 1500 for .... ~$2000 with an ODO (<100,000 miles) that worked and an owner that has had it long time/kept good records of PM's. when HAVE TO work on it more than ride it... im too old for that now. i'll ride it a little while longer and then...????