Heck with it !!!!!! - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
the pump failures with this mod can be traced to the line kinking.


I burned up 2 pumps before I glommed onto what was happening.....
both were warrantied.


a brass tee stopped that problem, and it never reoccurred.


a plastic tee should work as well, and would be cheaper.

I did install the brass elbow on the first replacement pump.

Carl

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 08:11 AM
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That's a shame if the Carter NAPA P72190 pumps don't last. I was planning to get one when mine fails.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Those pumps might work out great for you. I just have a knack of finding the bad apple most of the time. I have a next to zero tolerance for UN-dependability. If this OEM pump quits, it will time to send the bike down the road.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:27 AM
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That's a shame if the Carter NAPA P72190 pumps don't last. I was planning to get one when mine fails.
This particular pump is a low pressure, rotary vane pump, and it requires the stated flow rate to keep the motor cool...

it is not the motor's windings that burn up, it is the vanes themselves that get hot from friction against the pump's sidewalls when flow ceases.

once the vanes stick against the pump's wall, it can't be moved again, even with force.... I tried it to see what was happening.

the trick to to make darn sure, that the outlet hose is the correct diameter, and that no restriction ever occurs. that means using a Tee connector that allows the outlet line to be straight, or nearly so.


This has the caveat that you must never allow the gas tank to go completely dry..... However, the pump will be turned off the instant the engine quits anyway, it is controlled by the ECM, not the ignition switch.



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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
This particular pump is a low pressure, rotary vane pump, and it requires the stated flow rate to keep the motor cool...

it is not the motor's windings that burn up, it is the vanes themselves that get hot from friction against the pump's sidewalls when flow ceases.

once the vanes stick against the pump's wall, it can't be moved again, even with force.... I tried it to see what was happening.

the trick to to make darn sure, that the outlet hose is the correct diameter, and that no restriction ever occurs. that means using a Tee connector that allows the outlet line to be straight, or nearly so.


This has the caveat that you must never allow the gas tank to go completely dry..... However, the pump will be turned off the instant the engine quits anyway, it is controlled by the ECM, not the ignition switch.
I agree letting the tank get low is hard on the pump but there are times there is very little or no flow through the pump, such as deceleration or at idle, should not hurt it.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:28 AM
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I wonder if you could "tee in" a return line to the tank to ensure the pump has flow, maybe with a slight restriction to ensure adequate pressure?


Maybe a pressure regulator?
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holle...4-PSI,383.html


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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ob1quixote View Post
I wonder if you could "tee in" a return line to the tank to ensure the pump has flow, maybe with a slight restriction to ensure adequate pressure?


Maybe a pressure regulator?
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Holle...4-PSI,383.html
There is really no way to do that unless the pump puts out way more pressure than necessary like fuel injection pumps do.

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