1989 gl1500 won`t start - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:46 AM
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The 2 most common things that would cause a no-start condition like that would be:


1) No Fuel:
Try: Bypass the Vacuum Shutoff Valve ("Petcock")


2) Kill Switch on handle bar
Try: Verify screws are tight, on bottom side of switch (need to open the clam shell cover to access them)
Try: Clean the Red and Brown connectors, located above right fan housing


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I void warranties


KJ6QFZ
Dark Side #590


GL1500, 1990SE, 220k miles
Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
Rear: Austone 175R16, 50psi

GL1800, 2003, 60K miles [following virginity reconstruction]
Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
Rear: Pirelli Winter Snowcontrol Series3, Run Flat, 41 psi
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 05:05 PM
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Have you done something in the air cleaner box?
If so, you may have forgotten to take out the rags you have used inside the carbs.
Don't ask how I know that.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 07:10 PM
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Try a little gas in each cylinder. Remove the plugs put in very little gas replace plugs see if it catches
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:16 PM
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:02 AM
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990
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I know this sucks. I have a 1990 gl1500. It was a hard start this year due to our extremely lengthy cold winter...but she did crank up. All of these ideas are good ones..but..to do all of these things will take a long time to figure out wtf is up. I would just drop it off..let the mechanic fix it..then youre off and riding. The amount of stress and hassle your going to escape would be well worth the $500 fee...my opinion.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimduffenais View Post
I know this sucks. I have a 1990 gl1500. It was a hard start this year due to our extremely lengthy cold winter...but she did crank up. All of these ideas are good ones..but..to do all of these things will take a long time to figure out wtf is up. I would just drop it off..let the mechanic fix it..then youre off and riding. The amount of stress and hassle your going to escape would be well worth the $500 fee...my opinion.

If I lived in super cold country, I would put in "winter oil" 0w20 or 5w20 and make it a point to start the bike every couple of weeks, then let it run long enough for the fans to cycle on/off at least twice.


this would keep the fuel system clean and working....
and I would make a point to take the battery inside the house and use a Battery Tender on it. or, as I did a few years, store the bike inside the attached garage, and left the car outside because it was used everyday no matter the weather.

~ John
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 07:15 PM
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I live In Ontario, Canada. We have very cold winters here..sometimes -40 below. I literally do my fluid changes before winter. Fill up the tank..and dump a full bottle of seafoam in the tank...ride for 30 mins around town..then park it for the winter in my attached non heated garage. Put it on the center stand uncovered, leave the battery in the bike but hook up my battery tender to it...it stays like that for 6 months...i will start it near spring time and let it run for 30 mins...then shut her down again...and thats it.

I know its heavy on the seafoam but i want to get a really good mixture through the lines and carbs for the winter.

When spring comes...i will get out and burn the entire fuel tank...then refill with fresh fuel. I try to add about 1/8 of a can of seafoam to each tank to keep things cleaned up inside the fuel system.
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