Hunting idle, dead spot off idle - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 12:03 PM
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First, turn idle adjust back CCW to set idle warm at 850 rpms or there abouts.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 03:57 PM
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I bad the same problem with the manifold clamps not quite tight enough. I removed the clamps (no small effort) and then removed the screws and the spacer. Then I took off @ 2.0mm from the spacer. Smaller spacer lets the clamp tighten.
Concerning the ‘dead spot off idle’ ... yes it might have something to do with the RECALL but the recall description is best referred to as a hesitation.
Something I found before is 1 or more loose screws of the 6 screws that connect the lower air box to the carbs. That’ll cause an air leak like the ‘dead spot’ description.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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When I bought the bike 20 years ago, I put a 6 degree in it and then pulled it to replace it with a 4 degree. It ran fine all this time until recently.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rayworx View Post
I bad the same problem with the manifold clamps not quite tight enough. I removed the clamps (no small effort) and then removed the screws and the spacer. Then I took off @ 2.0mm from the spacer. Smaller spacer lets the clamp tighten...

If you're going to remove the carbs/isolators, then I'd suggest using "K&N Air Filter Grease" to re-mount the isolators... it seals up the joints pretty good (and also makes it easier to dis-assemble next time)


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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayworx View Post
I bad the same problem with the manifold clamps not quite tight enough. I removed the clamps (no small effort) and then removed the screws and the spacer. Then I took off @ 2.0mm from the spacer. Smaller spacer lets the clamp tighten.
Concerning the ‘dead spot off idle’ ... yes it might have something to do with the RECALL but the recall description is best referred to as a hesitation.
Something I found before is 1 or more loose screws of the 6 screws that connect the lower air box to the carbs. That’ll cause an air leak like the ‘dead spot’ description.
Like Ray said. Another fix is to wrap the isolator with electrical tape about 4 times to increase the bite of the clamp. Or go all out and buy new isolators.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:59 AM
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...Something I found before is 1 or more loose screws of the 6 screws that connect the lower air box to the carbs. That’ll cause an air leak like the ‘dead spot’ description.

Gotta dis-agree on this one... A leak like this is above the carb, hence will not at all affect the fuel/air mixture that subsequently occurs downstream, after the air has passed through the carb. An air leak above the carb will only By-pass the air filter... which is bad, because you'd be drawing dirty air into the carb.


Again, "K&N Air Filter Grease" is your friend on this joint.
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Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
Rear: Austone 175R16, 50psi

GL1800, 2003, 60K miles [following virginity reconstruction]
Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
Rear: Pirelli Winter Snowcontrol Series3, Run Flat, 41 psi
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:59 AM
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What went bad on mine is the 'U' shaped rubber pipe above the left cylinder block. (Left side viewed from sitting on the bike). Developed a tiny hole impossible to see until you pull the pipe off and inspect. Luckily it's easy to get at and easy to replace.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 12:51 PM
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The vacuum hose from the left cylinder head does cause the idle to do what you said. Surge from 750 to 1200 rmp. The hose gets hard and will start leaking. If your bike ran good for all those years and just started this you have a vacuum leak. The bike is over 30 years old and rubber goes bad with heat. Sometimes you can trim that hose back a little at the head and get the hose to seal up. Good Luck!
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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Good advice. Ive heard of that and since all other functions are spot on, I will look into the hose. Where exactly is it? Can I get to it just be removing the side fairing?
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:41 AM
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The hose I'm talking about starts on the top of the left cylinder head and runs to the carb's if I remember right. If you pull the left side lower cover you will see it. I changed mine with the same hose from my old motor that I had, but that hose has to make a U turn and was made with that bend in it. I would buy OEM if I could find a new one. It's a good place to start looking for your Idle surge.
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