84 GL 1200 A clutch cover oil seal - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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84 GL 1200 A clutch cover oil seal

to replace the clutch cover oil seal that the slave cylinder push rod goes through, do I have to remove the cover and replace seal from inside? Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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I saw something about having to do it that way on the interstate but not sure and not sure about the aspencade which is what I am dealing with


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:21 PM
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No, the seal goes in from the outside, it may be stuck in there pretty good.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:05 PM
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They are probably referring to the seal that goes into the motor. #13 on this fiche.

https://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_...987&fveh=13049

I've tried to talk people through replacing that seal without pulling the cover but don't remember anyone getting it done. It didn't seem that hard when I did mine.

The main thing is don't try to dig it out. If that's the one you're going for, find a bolt that will screw tightly into the seal's opening. Then wait for instructions. I have artwork that shows how to do it.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I haven't stated the job yet so I will be waiting instruction. Being as old as it is i'm sure it won't be quick and easy, but as long as it's done right without taking to much apart.


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:25 AM
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Okay, the bolt threads should cut deep into the seal. That's important.

And the box wrench should fit over the shank of the bolt but not the head.

And you need to find an angle for the pry bar so you have a lot of leverage against the wrench so you can pull the bolt straight out.

You can lean the bike over onto its right side crash bars if you want to go at this from underneath.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
Okay, the bolt threads should cut deep into the seal. That's important.

And the box wrench should fit over the shank of the bolt but not the head.

And you need to find an angle for the pry bar so you have a lot of leverage against the wrench so you can pull the bolt straight out.

You can lean the bike over onto its right side crash bars if you want to go at this from underneath.
Would have been good of you to include the bolt size & thread pitch in the diagram.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thank You very much, the part is on order with some other parts I need. I will let you know how I make out, I should do fine, I am pretty good with mechanics.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Removed slave cylinder and I am looking at very deteriorated thin rubber with metal behind it. Am I right in guessing that the seal is rubber coated metal. If so then now to find a bolt thick enough to thread into it.


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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Might have to run to hardware store, can't find the right size bolt in garage or basement. How ever I thought of something else in the mean time. How did you get the new seal seated with no room to tap it in?


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