TRAC on GL1200 - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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I just realized where I read the 5.5 inch height. It is listed in the Progressive install notes as a not-to-exceed number. It also states that Progressive springs displace more oil. I found a post on this forum with numbers for the 1500 that are 8-9" deep, so I'm thinking to go with the 345 ml as per the manual. It's time to put the caps on an remount the front of this bike! Then I will only have to change the rear tire...

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:49 PM
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After all your miles? You're missing out of all the fun. Though, you spend more time riding!
It works fine. It's such a simple system, if you keep the oil changed, there's nothing to go wrong.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 07:19 PM
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Thanks Dave, I just got back from Napa and I bought AMSOIL Synthetic ATF. I went with synthetic since I'd like to not do this again for awhile. It poured out cherry red, just like Dexron.

So I added 345 ml into each, like it states in the manual for disassembly. there is another 323 measurement, which is likely for draining only, since the delta of 22 ml is likely caught in the TRAC or elsewhere.

So with this added, forks compressed, no spring inserted, the oil is a good 8" from the top of the shock. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that it should come 5.5" from top. I had the same situation when I did my CRF230F recently. I understand you can go a bit more for a heavier ride, but there is a point where too much oil is bad. Any thoughts, while I search this site more?
The thing is the synthetic will get just as dirty as conventional ATF. I think it's better err on the low side rather than overfill so stick to the recommended amount. I leave mine about an inch below the level progressives call for.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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It works fine. It's such a simple system, if you keep the oil changed, there's nothing to go wrong.
I agree to a point, now that I have serviced this assembly. Given you change fork oil every 2 years as the service manual suggests, or close to that, I would think the dirt collected in the TRAC will be cycled into the main body of the fork body. Meaning you'll clean most of that dirt, next change. Too much dirt collected in the TRAC; will it work? The oil passages in this assembly are quite small.

I found almost as much dirt (black particles that sit at the bottom of the drained ATF), in the TRAC as in the bottom of the fork body. It only takes 4 Allen screws to clean this part. I suggest, next change clean the TRAC too!

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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The thing is the synthetic will get just as dirty as conventional ATF. I think it's better err on the low side rather than overfill so stick to the recommended amount. I leave mine about an inch below the level progressives call for.
Agreed Dave, I merely believe synthetics have greater shelf life. Not sure, just opinion.

Dirt, or carbon from heat, collects mostly from usage and somewhat during storage, but much less so. When I only put 1500 miles on my GL1200 per year, and other miles on my GPz900 or my R-bike or my K-bike, its not like I'm servicing ONE vehicle that get 20K miles of punishment per year.

I believe one advantage of synthetics, is you can go longer between changes. For years, I thought synthetics were nonsense. I drive mostly old cars and bikes, that were designed to use petroleum based products. Why pay 4x for oil, if you are going to change it 2-3 times per year. Why? Don't - it makes absolutely no sense.

Like so many for-sale ads; "Changed oil every 2-3K miles with Mobil-1." If you use a superior oil, why do you change it so often? When I drive a car 20K miles per year, I change oil often and use what the manufacturer calls for.

I will likely leave this AMSOIL Synthetic ATF in my GL for 6 years. I'll bet it looks pretty good when I drain it next time, because of how anal I cleaned the forks!

(Job 99% done. I’ll take it for a ride tomorrow and then park it the other direction for the new rear tire!)
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 12:03 AM
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I believe one advantage of synthetics, is you can go longer between changes. For years, I thought synthetics were nonsense. I drive mostly old cars and bikes, that were designed to use petroleum based products. Why pay 4x for oil, if you are going to change it 2-3 times per year. Why? Don't - it makes absolutely no sense.

Like so many for-sale ads; "Changed oil every 2-3K miles with Mobil-1." If you use a superior oil, why do you change it so often? When I drive a car 20K miles per year, I change oil often and use what the manufacturer calls for.

I change the oil in our car once a year using pure synthetic, it is a 2007 and has always had the oil changed annually since it was new.


Once while the wife was very sick and we lived in hospitals more than at home, I forgot the car's oil change. the car was making round trips to the hospitals everyday, my daughter and I took turns baby sitting my wife 24 hrs 7 days for nine months.

when I remember the oil needed to be changed, I was appalled that it had almost 16,000 miles on it.

Turns out that is not as sacrilegious as I thought it would be. The oil check 'tech' typed in 5w30, it was 5w20 as spec'd by GM.
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File Type: jpg Oil Report 1.jpg (94.9 KB, 3 views)
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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I change the oil in our car once a year using pure synthetic, it is a 2007 and has always had the oil changed annually since it was new.


Once while the wife was very sick and we lived in hospitals more than at home, I forgot the car's oil change. the car was making round trips to the hospitals everyday, my daughter and I took turns baby sitting my wife 24 hrs 7 days for nine months.

when I remember the oil needed to be changed, I was appalled that it had almost 16,000 miles on it.

Turns out that is not as sacrilegious as I thought it would be. The oil check 'tech' typed in 5w30, it was 5w20 as spec'd by GM.
I has amazed me at times, when changing oil on an old bike or car I just bought and the oil comes out very nasty, BUT later when pouring it out of the pan and into the container for recycling I notice how sticky the oil still is. It's dirty, but still protecting the moving parts. Best of health to your wife and family. JD

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 02:52 PM
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BUT later when pouring it out of the pan and into the container for recycling I notice how sticky the oil still is. It's dirty, but still protecting the moving parts. Best of health to your wife and family. JD
Engine oil has three functions. To lubricate, (duh). But also to carry away heat from friction. It is also designed to suspend solids. Just because it's slippery doesn't mean it's protecting. Synthetics are great, but they need to be used correctly. The oil make last a long time, but it still needs to be filtered. Synthetic once a year. Oil filter twice.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 03:06 PM
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Engine oil has three functions. To lubricate, (duh). But also to carry away heat from friction. It is also designed to suspend solids. Just because it's slippery doesn't mean it's protecting. Synthetics are great, but they need to be used correctly. The oil make last a long time, but it still needs to be filtered. Synthetic once a year. Oil filter twice.

on the Pontiac Vibe, you have to either have a lift, or a basement ramp like in the Jiffy Lubes. the oil filter is covered up with a big plastic shield full width of the car.


a couple days ago, we got to hearing a dragging noise under the car.
I laid down and looked, and low and behold, all of the metal bolts had been removed from that shield and it was now dragging on the ground.


when I saw how easy it was going to be for me to do my own oil changes now, I took the 3 remaining bolts out of the left side, and threw that shield away.



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