Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

TRAC on GL1200

3K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  AZgl1800 
#1 ·
Cleaning the forks on my '84 Standard, I almost have the TRAC disassembled, but cannot get the last two parts out.

The manual states to remove the pin to get the adjust screw out. Doesn’t say how. I got the little springs out, but the ball bearing did not fall out. The black puck doesn’t come all the way out either (see pic).

Maybe I don’t need to remove everything. I would like to know if the ball bearing is actually in there. I would think it would fall out after the spring is removed. Also, every time I handle this part more black oil comes out. I’d like to get it completely disassembled so I can soak the housing in kerosene or ATF.

Thanks for your advice. JD
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#2 ·
Never mind

I guess nobody knows about the TRAC here. Mine has likely never worked on this bike, since I've owned it. I also remember back 35 years when I bought my first '84 Standard, new from the dealer, that the 1-2-3-4 settings really made no real difference riding. Going to slap it back together today as it was.
 
#5 ·
The Anti-Dive is for the "Dive" that happens when you stab the brakes. So, the TRAC system is designed to resist this dive that happens. So, the dial (1-2-3-4) will increase or decrease the amount of resistance to the dive of the forks. That is why there is the little lever that is connected to the brake caliper. This will not effect the smoothness of the ride, only the amount of compression you get of the forks when you brake hard.
 
#6 ·
ATF in forks?

I got 2 responses, but both failed to read the request in the OP.

So, I was not able to pull the pin to remove the adjust screw, what Honda calls the Orifice. I soaked the parts in ATF for 2 nights and it did get very clean, enough to see the ball bearings in the TRAC case, but for some reason the ball bearings would not come out the opening. Now I know they are in there.

All is clean and rebuilt, so I hope it works now. Prior to this work, when I jammed on the front brakes and the forks would go down quickly. Maybe it would be worse w/o TRAC or maybe it was not functioning. I don't know.

Dennis, BTW the Pirelli MT66 tires you suggested look great! Much better tread design than the Dunlop E3 tires I bought last time. I used balance beads inside and sealed the rims with slime, which is NOT easy to do! I filled the front to 40 lbs. the first night and the pressure dropped to 38 in 24 hours. This worried me, per your comment. Then I set the pressure to 34 lb which is about where I would run the front. It has sit exactly at 34 lb for 3 days now! I didn't want to mount, if it was going to leak. I believe the 2 lb loss the fist night was just due to some initial stretch after mounting.

So, is any ATF good for fork oil? That's all the service manual states.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Dave, I just got back from Napa and I bought AMSOIL Synthetic ATF. I went with synthetic since I'd like to not do this again for awhile. It poured out cherry red, just like Dexron.

So I added 345 ml into each, like it states in the manual for disassembly. there is another 323 measurement, which is likely for draining only, since the delta of 22 ml is likely caught in the TRAC or elsewhere.

So with this added, forks compressed, no spring inserted, the oil is a good 8" from the top of the shock. I believe I read somewhere on this forum that it should come 5.5" from top. I had the same situation when I did my CRF230F recently. I understand you can go a bit more for a heavier ride, but there is a point where too much oil is bad. Any thoughts, while I search this site more?
 
#13 ·
The thing is the synthetic will get just as dirty as conventional ATF. I think it's better err on the low side rather than overfill so stick to the recommended amount. I leave mine about an inch below the level progressives call for.
 
#11 ·
I just realized where I read the 5.5 inch height. It is listed in the Progressive install notes as a not-to-exceed number. It also states that Progressive springs displace more oil. I found a post on this forum with numbers for the 1500 that are 8-9" deep, so I'm thinking to go with the 345 ml as per the manual. It's time to put the caps on an remount the front of this bike! Then I will only have to change the rear tire...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top