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-   -   86 SEI Running rough suddenly (https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/667119-86-sei-running-rough-suddenly.html)

EAGLECRY24 04-27-2019 08:48 PM

86 SEI Running rough suddenly
 
Greetings gents,

Had bike down for a bit (6 months) due to time and other mechanical parts change (back wheel etc...)

Bike starts up no problem cold. After it warms up, it runs like poop. Sometimes I can hear the injectors clicking like crazy after it dies.

No fault codes...

Also, after it warms up ( I cleaned the injectors by running Seafoam through the vacuum lines to the injectors). Unplugging the vacuum line (or lines) while warm does not change the RPM. I’ve had to turn up the idle quite a bit to keep it running. I’ve tried the ol intake leak trick by spraying starting fluid around the boots and vacuum lines but I get no rpm change. I’m at a loss. Unless the injectors are clogged causing erroneous mixtures anyway.

https://youtu.be/Rv0T415Ljy8

Rednaxs60 04-27-2019 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EAGLECRY24 (Post 5838105)
Greetings gents,

Had bike down for a bit (6 months) due to time and other mechanical parts change (back wheel etc...)

Bike starts up no problem cold. After it warms up, it runs like poop. Sometimes I can hear the injectors clicking like crazy after it dies.

No fault codes...

Also, after it warms up ( I cleaned the injectors by running Seafoam through the vacuum lines to the injectors). Unplugging the vacuum line (or lines) while warm does not change the RPM. Iíve had to turn up the idle quite a bit to keep it running. Iíve tried the ol intake leak trick by spraying starting fluid around the boots and vacuum lines but I get no rpm change. Iím at a loss. Unless the injectors are clogged causing erroneous mixtures anyway.

https://youtu.be/Rv0T415Ljy8

Have an '85 Limited that I have been refurbishing for three and 1/2 years now, do work then ride, repeat as necessary. Once these FI bikes are working well, great bikes.

First thing I would do is set the idle and calibrate the TPS. Next I would suggest balancing the right/left cylinder banks. The idle will be affected so it's a dual calibration.

The vacuum lines go from each cylinder bank up to the PB sensors (MAP). I would put a vacuum gauge on each side and check the vacuum. If the system is working correctly you will draw a good vacuum. The reed valves work quite well and draw a lot of air from the idle air control system for cold starts, and to provide a source of air for the cylinders when the throttle is shut fully such as when decelerating.

If you disconnect one PB sensor vacuum line at a time, there will be no change in the engine operation. Disconnect both at the same time and there will be an issue. The ECU uses the PB sensor signal to assist in engine idle and engine performance below approximately 3000 RPM.

If you don't have the service manuals for your bike, would recommend getting a copy.

Troubleshooting these older FI bikes without the manuals is not an easy task.

No error codes is good. The injectors on these FI bikes are quite robust. Had mine cleaned and flow tested a while back, before cleaning flowed at 64 CC/min, after cleaning 66 cc/min. Shouldn't need to run seafoam or other products through the injectors.

The fuel system light, if it comes on is the equivalent of a check engine light. Had this light come on on another '85 LTD that I put on the road and have subsequently sold. Thought it was the fuel system, but there is nothing on the fuel system to trigger this warning light. Did some other tests such as leaving the air temp sensor disconnected, and took the TPS out of calibration, fuel system light came on.

Best of luck. Cheers

DaveO430 04-27-2019 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EAGLECRY24 (Post 5838105)
( I cleaned the injectors by running Seafoam through the vacuum lines to the injectors).

You cannot clean injectors through the vacuum lines, cleaner has to be pumped through them under pressure.

EAGLECRY24 04-27-2019 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveO430 (Post 5838129)
Quote:

Originally Posted by EAGLECRY24 (Post 5838105)
( I cleaned the injectors by running Seafoam through the vacuum lines to the injectors).

You cannot clean injectors through the vacuum lines, cleaner has to be pumped through them under pressure.

You are correct sir. I was under the impression that the vacuum check lines provided air to the injectors for a better atomization (Too old of a system for that).

Seems to run worse with increased oil temperatures/higher overall engine temps. (Operating temp).

EAGLECRY24 04-27-2019 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rednaxs60 (Post 5838111)

Have an '85 Limited that I have been refurbishing for three and 1/2 years now, do work then ride, repeat as necessary. Once these FI bikes are working well, great bikes.

First thing I would do is set the idle and calibrate the TPS. Next I would suggest balancing the right/left cylinder banks. The idle will be affected so it's a dual calibration.

The vacuum lines go from each cylinder bank up to the PB sensors (MAP). I would put a vacuum gauge on each side and check the vacuum. If the system is working correctly you will draw a good vacuum. The reed valves work quite well and draw a lot of air from the idle air control system for cold starts, and to provide a source of air for the cylinders when the throttle is shut fully such as when decelerating.

If you disconnect one PB sensor vacuum line at a time, there will be no change in the engine operation. Disconnect both at the same time and there will be an issue. The ECU uses the PB sensor signal to assist in engine idle and engine performance below approximately 3000 RPM.

If you don't have the service manuals for your bike, would recommend getting a copy.

Troubleshooting these older FI bikes without the manuals is not an easy task.

No error codes is good. The injectors on these FI bikes are quite robust. Had mine cleaned and flow tested a while back, before cleaning flowed at 64 CC/min, after cleaning 66 cc/min. Shouldn't need to run seafoam or other products through the injectors.

The fuel system light, if it comes on is the equivalent of a check engine light. Had this light come on on another '85 LTD that I put on the road and have subsequently sold. Thought it was the fuel system, but there is nothing on the fuel system to trigger this warning light. Did some other tests such as leaving the air temp sensor disconnected, and took the TPS out of calibration, fuel system light came on.

Best of luck. Cheers

I don’t have a service manual besides the Haynes manual from amazon.

I don’t know where the TPS is. I looked for it.

AZgl1800 04-27-2019 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EAGLECRY24 (Post 5838159)
You are correct sir. I was under the impression that the vacuum check lines provided air to the injectors for a better atomization (Too old of a system for that).

Seems to run worse with increased oil temperatures/higher overall engine temps. (Operating temp).


sent you a PM ref a manual for that bike

Bike...and Dennis 04-28-2019 12:02 AM

Have you checked for mouse infestation?

EAGLECRY24 04-28-2019 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis (Post 5838169)
Have you checked for mouse infestation?

Affirmative. No mouse or even signs of mouse...

Rednaxs60 04-28-2019 08:24 AM

I think Dennis made a comment a while back regarding these FI bikes in that he wouldn't put fuel in one without having the manuals - good advice. PM sent.

EAGLECRY24 04-28-2019 10:54 AM

So, I did a ride this morning to troubleshoot. It was running horribly rough (like a vacuum line is open on both sides). And she was smoking like something fierce.

After a mile or so the “Fuel System” light came on and the idle came up to 1800 or so and it ran wayyy better. I’d love to understand more on how this system works. Of course after turning the bike off and back on again clears the message and the idle drops back down to around 800 rpm and running rough sometimes dieing and starting back up.


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