'87 1200I Voltage Output @ 11 volts at 3000 RPMs. Help! - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:47 PM
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Pat, You have a PM.....

Don

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post #32 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 11:03 PM
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Unplug the plug. Set meter to AC Volts. One probe on A and one on B what do you get?
Next, One probe on B and one on C what do you get? Next, One probe on A and one on C what do you get?
All should read 50 Volts AC or more at 3,000 RPM. No probe to ground, block or frame etc. for this test.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #33 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 06:16 AM
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I wrote over on GWDocs:

Unplugging at the rec/reg and measuring there is plenty disconnected enough, you can take the voltage readings from the same place with the rec/reg unplugged. The voltage readings you took are not correct measurements. Read the AC voltage the same way you read the ohms, A-B, A-C and B-C at 3000 RPM

0.7 ohms seems a little low....But not unreasonable. Did you do the Leakage test? (Ohms reading from A, B or C to ground, reg/rec disconnected, engine stopped)

If you wanted to load-test the stator it should be able to light up a standard household 60 watt 120v incandescent light bulb on A-B, A-C or B-C. Won't be full brightness though, doesn't put out 120v, and the voltage will drop with the load... But should light it nonetheless. You'd see the brightness vary with engine RPM. It would show you the stator can put out some current. This test is optional and mainly for grins, the voltage readings will be enough.
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1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
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post #34 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverWinger View Post
I wrote over on GWDocs:

Unplugging at the rec/reg and measuring there is plenty disconnected enough, you can take the voltage readings from the same place with the rec/reg unplugged. The voltage readings you took are not correct measurements. Read the AC voltage the same way you read the ohms, A-B, A-C and B-C at 3000 RPM

0.7 ohms seems a little low....But not unreasonable. Did you do the Leakage test? (Ohms reading from A, B or C to ground, reg/rec disconnected, engine stopped)

If you wanted to load-test the stator it should be able to light up a standard household 60 watt 120v incandescent light bulb on A-B, A-C or B-C. Won't be full brightness though, doesn't put out 120v, and the voltage will drop with the load... But should light it nonetheless. You'd see the brightness vary with engine RPM. It would show you the stator can put out some current. This test is optional and mainly for grins, the voltage readings will be enough.
I'm getting a much clearer picture of how to do this now. I appreciate your patience with me Denver. (And everyone else.) This will help me complete it sometime today.

I DID do the Leakage test and there were no ohms readings from any of the legs to ground. Not sure of the technical term for that, but what I mean is that there was absolutely no continuity (shorts) from any of the three wires to the ground.

I feel confident I can do this correctly now. And I hope to be able to pass what I've learned from this on to anyone else that may come across this in the future. I haven't spent much time on this site (I had kinda forgotten about it ) as I post mostly on GWDocs. But I will spend more time on here looking to see if I can help anybody out with things that I do know about.

You guys have been great. And as soon as I get 47 other things done today, I'm going straight to work on these tests and post the results. One would think my Goldwing would be the #1 priority, and I would love that. But this adulting crap gets in the way of my fun sometimes.

I'm old enough (most of the time) to know, that I reap what I sow.
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post #35 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Test Results From Stator

A to B 24.3 AC Volts,
A to C 24.3 AC Volts,
B to C 14.0 AC Volts.

Measured with Reg/Rec unplugged and RPMs @ 3000.

What is your verdict of these tests?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Test Results.jpg (116.4 KB, 12 views)

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post #36 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 05:12 PM
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Not good news. Looks like you need a stator.
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post #37 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 05:17 PM
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That sounds to me like a cooked stator....

1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
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post #38 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:00 PM
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might as well run it into the ground, that stator is Toast.

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post #39 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 06:13 PM
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I had my 86 wing ready for a group ride, we were at the Honda dealer as the starting point, my bike would not start, the ride went on without me, fiddled around at the dealership for a couple hours and nobody could figure it out...then I hit something in frustration , and tried it one more time, started right up....turns out the rubber on the starter solenoid had worn through in one spot and it was shorting out...repaired the rubber so there was no more shorting, and have not had a problem with starting, sense then......
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post #40 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:40 PM
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Just to be clear I'm not endorsing any particular brand or size but these new lithium jump batterys are light and should be able to easily recharge the bikes battery multiple times.

https://m.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/battery-charger/noco-75-amp-6-12-volt-genius-battery-charger/388458_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000BA:17000 00848&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_r3nBRDxARIsAJlj leFDTZ-XGK1TckJpcLsiJE4g0KBv-1_-NYQbIxw8tcd0JARN68kdIXcaAg__EALw_wcB

Using one of these wired to the battery would help the bike start then if left on should continue to charge the battery until it is charged while you ride.

You could strap it to the seat....



By the way ya'll I installed the last new crank shaft seal in my bike about 2 months ago.

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