76 won't shift up/down or into neutral when hot. - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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When I say not running it is just a matter of turning the key off and shifting. Can't be a difference in temps. I also just can't see a bent shift shaft. But???

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 07:02 PM
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Bike on centerstand, first gear, clutch in. No wheel spin.
Is that with the engine running & hot?
I remember you having some kind of clutch problem, the reason you put a clutch in it but don't remember if it was the same problem.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Exact same problem. New clutch and scavenger oil pump. Cable adjusted to specs with smooth travel. No change at all. Yes engine running and hot indicating there is no clutch problem.

Tom

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 07:55 AM
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When was the oil last changed, and what oil is in it?

Since the motor oil lubes the gears and clutch, a problem with the is can affect shifting.

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 08:00 AM
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Strange as this may sound, try sea foam in your oil. I had a starter that wouldn't engage properly on a fairly regular basis on an 82. Sea foam was suggested, I laughed, but tried it anyway, and it worked. Blew away any real logic I had.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Doug and Kyle. Oil changed 50 miles ago. Using Rotella T5. This bike has been meticulously serviced since I rebuilt it 13 years ago. No sludge to worry about. This has to be something mechanical binding up. I can't even see how worn or bent shift forks could cause things to bind up. I guess the next step is pulling the front cover and checking the shifter linkages.

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:54 AM
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Hate to say it but it's sounding like an internal trans problem. Try having it running on the center stand in neutral. Does the rear wheel turn and how much does it take to make it stop?

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:22 AM
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My '86 was doing this on a trip. When it occurred I found I could get it loose by getting going as fast in the gear it was stuck, pull in the clutch, wait a second or 2 and release the clutch quickly (almost getting a rear wheel chirp). It would then shift fine, till the next time. The ultimate fix was after the trip put a little Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase. Rode it about 50 miles and drained the oil and replaced with JASO rated motorcycle oil. I've never had the problem again. I don't have a clue why it worked or if it will have any impact on your problem.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 07:50 PM
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Remember when you use your ratchet in a tight place and you do not have enough swing to grab the next tooth on the ratchet? That is what it seems like to me. Can't reconcile the heat or engine running relationship but I want to guess the issue is related to the shifting mechanism. Most likely the shift arm spring #19. If that fails there is nothing to engage the teeh of the shift arm with the shift drum. Just like if you break the spring of your ratchet. There would be nothing to push the tab in to the teeth of the ratchet mechanism. I know that is not a good answer but I wonder if your issue does not lie in that area? When you watch the video pay special attention to the part from 50 seconds to 1:32 and the left shift arm. See it move in and out to catch the next gear? What if it just stayed hanging out? You would have nothing if that spring failed. Unfortunately the spring is not shown but the in and out action of the spring is shown.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Remember when you use your ratchet in a tight place and you do not have enough swing to grab the next tooth on the ratchet?
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..
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But the shifter would still move.

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