GL1500 Ran, Rode, Stopped and will not start again - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Brookline, New Hampshire, USA
Year: 1990
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Thank you All will let you know my findings after i remove the right saddle bag.
Appreciate the active chat on this. I know we will get my wing flying again.

Tom
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Great news everyone, Thank you DaveO430 I finally received my newly soldered transistor and the pump sent gas to the carburetor and yes we are started. The engine runs wonderful, except I am seeing a new leak in the Petcock after doing the rebuild. I am going to take the Petcock apart again and see if there is any cracks or damage, the new gasket and spring should still be good.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
You are all the best

Will keep the forum posted on the next update
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy

Sunday Update
Well here we go again, engine will not start with the same original symptom, I wonder if the new transistor also fried? WIth a voltmeter, ignition on and start button pushed I am getting 9+ volts to the fuel pump. (So happy I didn't reassemble the bike yesterday) I guess the question now is a bad computer or something else that is shorting this transistor. Back to troubleshooting, we were close, any new ideas?

Forgot to mention that after a rebuild of the Petcock, the engine started and ran wonderfully
Looks like after a few starts the transistor or something is blocking current to fuel pump
Thank you for all your support

Last edited by Tomkaralex; 06-30-2019 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Add information
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomkaralex View Post
Sunday Update
Well here we go again, engine will not start with the same original symptom, I wonder if the new transistor also fried? WIth a voltmeter, ignition on and start button pushed I am getting 9+ volts to the fuel pump. (So happy I didn't reassemble the bike yesterday) I guess the question now is a bad computer or something else that is shorting this transistor. Back to troubleshooting, we were close, any new ideas?

Forgot to mention that after a rebuild of the Petcock, the engine started and ran wonderfully
Looks like after a few starts the transistor or something is blocking current to fuel pump
Thank you for all your support
You are aware that the puel pump will not pump of you just turn on the ignition. You must use the start button to spin the engine over. The ECM only sends power to the fuel pump if the engine is turning over or running. If you unplug the fuel pump then go back to the ECM amd back probe the wire you should see the test light turn on each time you turn the engine over.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomkaralex View Post
Sunday Update
Well here we go again, engine will not start with the same original symptom, I wonder if the new transistor also fried? WIth a voltmeter, ignition on and start button pushed I am getting 9+ volts to the fuel pump. t
You are getting voltage to the pump so the transistor is obviously working. The concern is that it is only 9 volts. It may be that the battery voltage is not enough to fire the ignition.

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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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The battery is reading 12.42 Cold in the bike. When I disconnect the Black/ Blue wire from the pump and use a test light on it (Pop the back open to get in the connection Pic below), there is no light indicating when I turn the engine over.

As I have a clear fuel Filter I see fuel in there (from yesterday's Success) but do not see any activity when i am turning the engine over (I expect to see flow) I am going to charge the battery back to Full charge and try again.

I am not sure of the test you are asking
"If you unplug the fuel pump then go back to the ECM amd back probe the wire you should see the test light turn on each time you turn the engine over." Does my test do the same thing as the ECM is connected to the harness and should be sending power to the Pump connector?
Thank you for your patience and continued solutions. Very much appreciated.
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 02:20 AM
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Did you try stress testing the fuel pump? I might suggest taking a long piece of gas tube, attach one end to the pump output and the other into a jar. Raise it up about head high and then use a jumper from positive side of battery to the "B" post of the pump. See if it can push fuel into that glass jar. If it cant, then your problem is going to be the fuel pump.


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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Very much for the test. I will give it a shot, i am guessing that a poor fuel pump might put extra stress on the ECU possibly causing the transistor to blow.
Fixing the transistor is the easy part. I am hoping the Fuel pump is now the culprit, seems like a nice free test to try.
Thank you again, i will report my findings.
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tomkaralex View Post
Thank you Very much for the test. I will give it a shot, i am guessing that a poor fuel pump might put extra stress on the ECU possibly causing the transistor to blow.
Fixing the transistor is the easy part. I am hoping the Fuel pump is now the culprit, seems like a nice free test to try.
Thank you again, i will report my findings.

No, it won't harm the ECU/ECM ( terminology )


the current to the motor is the same, the pump just fails to output the designed flow rate.

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:33 AM
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Tom,

I have an extra ECU I can send you for testing... let me know if you need it.....

Rick Sheeley/King Gypsy
East Coast,USA


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