Goldwing 1500 clutch fluid empty - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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  • 2 Post By trike lady
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Location: San Marcos, California, USA
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Goldwing 1500 clutch fluid empty

Another issue came , as with the fuel problem, I now see the reservoir on the clutch is empty. I filled it with dot4 and pulling lever, no clutch resistance. I have not ridden it in 2 years. There is no fluid on garage floor so there doesnít seem to be a leak.
What do I do to prime the system. Thanks

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:18 PM
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It's going inside the engine and you'll need to do an oil and filter change. You may want to rebuild the slave cylinder and the master cylinder as well.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:22 PM
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Holy crap,I just came in from finding my clutch fluid has disappeared to a low level,I noticed on my last ride Saturday that the clutch seemed to come way back before it started pulling in the clutch,a few years back the return hole was plugged and causing issues but I fixed that and it was good till now,today I cleaned the reservoir and put in new fluid and bled it,it seems to be fine but like you I donít know where it may have escaped to,I have no leaks.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:23 PM
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Trike lady,THAT seem like a challenging job.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 01:02 PM
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The attached link is for the clutch cover and the associated slave cylinder.
https://www.hondapartsnation.com/oem...a/clutch-cover
You can buy the whole thing or the individual pieces.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 01:42 PM
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You might want to pull the slave cylinder and have a look at it before ordering parts. Mine was scored really badly so no choice but to replace the entire thing. Yours might not be so bad and can be rebuilt. The job sounds much worse than it is.

Old one





New OEM one
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:46 PM
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I just had to rebuild the clutch slave cylinders on both my 1500s. It is not a fun job but not to bad either. I did the second one in about 1 1/2 hours start to finish and I took my time. I jacked mine up and reached up under it to take off the slave cylinder. You have a fair amount of room to get to it that way. If you don't have any way to get it up in the air, you will probably need to remove the alternator to have room to get in there to work on it. Here are some pictures of what mine looked like after I removed it from the rear cover.
You will need to clean up all the crud on and inside the slave cylinder. I can promise you, it will look very much like these pictures. I replaced items 8,9 & 16 on the fiche. Then reinstalled it and bleed the clutch system and it was good to go.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trike lady View Post
It's going inside the engine and you'll need to do an oil and filter change. You may want to rebuild the slave cylinder and the master cylinder as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
Holy crap,I just came in from finding my clutch fluid has disappeared to a low level,I noticed on my last ride Saturday that the clutch seemed to come way back before it started pulling in the clutch,a few years back the return hole was plugged and causing issues but I fixed that and it was good till now,today I cleaned the reservoir and put in new fluid and bled it,it seems to be fine but like you I donít know where it may have escaped to,I have no leaks.

You both have a Bad Seal, at the forward end of the pushrod where it enters the rear of the engine.
The clutch fluid is bypassing that seal, and entering the engine... where it Dilutes the engine oil. This is a common problem for 1500's.

The seal is not part of the Slave Cylinder, hence must order it separately.

See Item# 15 at this link:
https://www.hondapartsnation.com/oem...a/clutch-cover

The seal is rather easy to change out, with the only difficulty being:
1) You need to work upside down
2) It's dark in there!... best to remove the alternator, for space and light to enter.
3) You cannot get a line-of-sight on the seal, as there's no room for YOU... must use a mechanics mirror and flashlight, to "feel" your way to remove/install the seal.
4) Need a small bent mechanics Pick, to remove the old seal.
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Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 06:14 PM
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It can be pretty cruddy in there. There is a weep hole that is supposed to allow fluid to leak out rather than letting it enter the engine although sometimes it doesn't work that way. You can see on my cover where the fluid had been leaking down for awhile.





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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 08:19 AM
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Yes, mine looked like that too. I could see where the fluid had been running out the weep hole and down on the cover. That is why I didn't see the need to replace the seal in the clutch cover. My clutch fluid was seeping out the weep hole and then evaporating I guess. I didn't see any places under the bike where fluid was getting to the floor.

Larry

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