1987 Goldwing 1200 Interstate Oil Leak - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Lompoc, California
Year: 1987
Model: GL1200 Interstate
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1987 Goldwing 1200 Interstate Oil Leak

I have a 1987 Goldwing 1200 which I bought new about a year and a half ago. Several months ago I switched to synthetic oil and have been chasing an oil leak ever since. I replaced the valve cover gasket and cleaned everything up but that apparently was not the leak. I traced it to the timing belt cover area and it would drips from either side by mostly from the left side of the bike. I just got done pulling the timing belt cover and there is signs of oil just not where it is leaking from. I had not ran the bike in 2 or 3 weeks which may not be helping. I will attach some pictures. It might be coming from the main crank but does not look for sure. The cam don't appear to be leaking or doesn't look like evidence of it.

Any ideas?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:29 PM
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From the looks of your pictures, my guess would be the crankshaft seal is leaking.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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I took the belts off and got a better look. For sure the right side Cam is leaking and the Left side is dry. I pulled the pulley and took a pic. Still on the fence about the main seal.

Any idea on best way to pull the leaking cam seal? What are the 2 bolts around the cam seal, what do they do?

After these pics do you still think the crank main seal is leaking? I should pull the crank bolt to take a look but was wondering how to do it. I could probably hit it with an impact to get it off but how do you put it back on? The main crank turns real easy so not sure how to hold it when your torquing. Torque after the belts are on?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitesurfer805 View Post
I took the belts off and got a better look. For sure the right side Cam is leaking and the Left side is dry. I pulled the pulley and took a pic. Still on the fence about the main seal.

Any idea on best way to pull the leaking cam seal? What are the 2 bolts around the cam seal, what do they do?

After these pics do you still think the crank main seal is leaking? I should pull the crank bolt to take a look but was wondering how to do it. I could probably hit it with an impact to get it off but how do you put it back on? The main crank turns real easy so not sure how to hold it when your torquing. Torque after the belts are on?

the two screws are only holding the timing cover back plate to the head. u have to remove valve cover and the rocker arm assembly and then the camshaft. probably not the main seal.
many have had success with www.auto-rx.com for cleaning and stopping seals from leaking.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 06:15 PM
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To hold the engine while removing / replacing crank bolt put transmission in 5th gear and have someone stand on the rear brake.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 06:47 PM
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To not risk any interference problems it would be best to loosen the crank and cam bolts before removing the belts & put the belts back on before tightening them. Take the inner cover off and the valve covers and just loosen the rocker arm bolts a little so the seals come out and go in easy & you don't have problems with the lash adjusters. Might as well replace all 3 seals, finding a crank seal may be a problem.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:09 PM
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Before replacing seals I'd service the PCV system if neglected.

Clean out the black tank by your left foot peg, the separator tank behind the air box and all three hoses.
Once the system is running a negative pressure your leaks may disappear.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:19 PM
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Finding the crank seal will be impossible. The 1500 seal will fit but it is for the opposite direction. Still, probably your best bet.

The 1200 seal simply is not available and in all my searching I've never seen an aftermarket replacement the same size, let alone the right direction.

So, Kite, how is it you bought the bike new 1Ĺ years ago? I assume that's a typo...

And please, be sociable and fill in your profile. Let folks know what city & state you hail from.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 11:52 PM
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You say you switched to synthetic oil, so I take it you used dino oil before. It's not unheard of for engines switched over to synthetic oil at higher miles to develop a leak.

Before I pulled her down, I'd change back to oil I was using, like in my case Delo LE 15W40, maybe dose it with a little Bardahl's seal sealer additive. Not a lot, but half a bottle anyway. I have a '77 Ford F-150 with 351M that doesn't get used enough. Rear main seal was leaking bad, a bottle seemed to help it. It also tremendously slowed the oil getting by valve stem seals in my '95 T-bird.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:41 AM
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Delo is a Group III oil. Group III chemistry shrinks seals and o-rings. They have and do put additives in the oil to prevent this. sometimes its not enough. Has issue with my 7.3L powerstroke 105k miles started using Delo, engine started burning motor oil. found out about Group III and went back to Supertech. oil burning stopped within 200 miles.
something to think about if seals are leaking.
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