Please help me restore this old GL1200 - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 11:44 PM
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That's a good lookin' bike. I'm jealous. I would still want to put eyes on the timing belts before cranking the thing over. They may be dry rotted. I think you should be able to pull the cover to look without having to pull anything but maybe the air deflectors. Look here for alternatives to various parts that may be easier to get there. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...t-numbers.html

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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you once again to everyone for their wonderful support and advise, you guys are truly wonderful and I appreciate it.

I removed the plugs easily, sprayed some penetrating oil inside the cylinders, engaged fifth gear and rotated the rear wheel a couple of times, engine turned very smoothly, checked the dipstick and the oil was full and clean
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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I made a mistake earlier, as I don't really know the history of this bike at all, or what's it been through, but now that I got a closer look, the odometer reads 41,000 miles, Tires are in GREAT shape, no cracks, very soft and supple, tire code is Nov 2010.

If I'm a VERY slow and careful rider, do you still advise to buy two new tires? I rarely go above 50 mph
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Removed the bodywork and cleaned the outside of the tank in preparation of a tank cleaning procedure to remove rust, there's a lot of rust inside and from reading around the forums this is what I'm going to do, please advise:

1- pressurize the tank with an air compressor to remove the remaining bit of fuel in the tank and push it out through the petcock.

2- put the petcock in off position, fill the tank with 2 gallons of white vinegar, 2 pounds of salt and the rest with tab water till it fills to the top and leave this for 3 or 4 days.

3- Siphon all out and rinse, fill again with water and baking powder for half an hour, and scrub a bit using a bottle brush.

4- Siphon out all and fill with fuel and a quart of 2 stroke oil and leave for 1 day.

5- Siphon out and fill with regular gas.

6- New fuel lines and new inline fuel filter to the fuel pump.



Should this be enough for the fuel system?

For steps 3,4 and 5, should I use the air pressure method to force the liquids out through the petcock instead of siphoning out? this way I can clean inside the metal hose that runs from the bottom of tank to the petcock.

For the carbs, I'm just gong to clean the air filter and pour in some carb cleaner and see how it goes.

Once I get confirmation on this from you guys, I'll start this process, and in the meantime will remove the radiator and and change the timing belts.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 06:54 AM
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Depending on how rusty the tank i, might be worthwhile doing an electrolysis operation on it. You can do that with a battery charger.

There's how-to threads on the site - The "Keeper of the Bookmarks" will likely chime in here....

1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 09:50 AM
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Check out Yamalube Ring Free and Fuel Additive. Has a good rep regarding bringing back some well worn engines.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 11:30 AM
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This is a link to how one member here derusted his tank using electrolysis. It takes quite a bit of time to do it this way but you get some good results.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ctrolysis.html

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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 01:27 AM
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Definitely a least look at the belts. Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom hose fitting and drain anti freeze then the two on the bottom of the radiator. Swing radiator out to get the inner bolts out of the belt covers.

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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again gentleman for your time, as I don't have a garage or a battery charger, I'll leave the electrolysis method as a plan B for now.
Yesterday I expelled all the old fuel and sludge from the tank, I filled it to the rim now with vinegar and salt solution to cook for the next three days.

Both the clutch and brakes (front and rear) are not working, do I need to completely remove everything and reassemble and overhaul the brake calipers? or just change the brake fluids and bleed them again?
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprocketrocket55 View Post
Definitely a least look at the belts. Remove the 2 bolts at the bottom hose fitting and drain anti freeze then the two on the bottom of the radiator. Swing radiator out to get the inner bolts out of the belt covers.

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I removed the radiator, I'll change those two hoses and today I'll take out the timing belt to see if I can find it locally.
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