Please help me restore this old GL1200 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Please help me restore this old GL1200

Hello everyone and thank you for your time,

I've always wanted to own and work on my motorcycle but with two jobs, no place of my own and three kids I could never even dream it, my kids are almost grown now, wife has left, I still don't have a garage or a place to work, I live in an apartment here in Kuwait, so I need to do most of my repairs outside. I LOVE to do my own repairing, but I've never actually done any due to various restrictions.

After a long period of motorcycle inactivity, I stumbled upon this beat up 1984 GL1200 which the seller imported from america around 8 years ago and just left it under a tree, I've always loved the old goldwings and just bought it without any thoughts, I'm now kind of regretting my decision but I've decided to live with it, I'm getting very old and my dream of owning my own place doesn't seem to want to happen, so I will just accept my situation and will do the repairs road side and bear the hardship.

I need some hand-holding from you guys, just a nudge in the right direction and I will do the rest.

First on the agenda is just to get her running so that I can take it to the traffic department for registration and the paper work, the owner says that it was running when he bought it from states with 84,000 miles on the clock. So before I start changing timing belts, tires and the major stuff, I just need to get it running.

So what do I need to do first? buy a new battery, drain and refill the fuel, check the oil and water and try to start her up?
once warm, drain and change the oil and be done with it?

Zero parts are available here so everything I need to order online, is there a preferred website where I can buy all I need? can anyone list some common parts which I should buy right off the bat for future use? as it's difficult getting them to Kuwait.
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1984 GL1200
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatboy123 View Post

So what do I need to do first? buy a new battery, drain and refill the fuel, check the oil and water and try to start her up?
once warm, drain and change the oil and be done with it?

.
That's about it but you should at least verify the engine does turn before buying anything. The easiest is to put it on the stand, rock the rear wheel while shifting it up through the gears to 5th then turn the wheel to try to turn the engine. No idea on where to get parts shipped to you. Some parts that have automotive applications you may be able to get locally, like timing belts.

With no God over the state, the state then becomes not the defender of liberty but the definer of liberty.


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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips Dave, for the parts, I just wanted to know which website you guys mostly buy from.

It's great to know that I can use automotive belts of the same size.

After some reading I'll do as below, if i'm wrong someplace please let me know:

-Remove dirt and debris from spark plug recesses with compressed air.
-Soak the area around the spark plugs with wd40 and leave overnight.
-Remove spark plugs and squirt wd40 (or brake fluid?) into each cylinder …this will help free up your rings and lube the cylinder walls.
-Replace plugs. (any recommendations?)
-Install fresh, fully charged battery.
-Address coolant status. Drain and re-fill as necessary for initial startup. Tap water is fine for now.
-With kill switch “off,” spin the engine on the starter for a few seconds…this will distribute the oil in each cylinder.
-Let the bike sit overnight.
-Drain the old oil.
-Replace oil with the cheapest 30W you can buy.
-Clean air filter.
-Rectify ALL problems with fuel tank. There should be no rust whatsoever in tank! Suspended rust in fuel will KILL any subsequent carb rehab efforts!
-Install new fuel filter.

-Start the engine, allow the engine to warm up, but DO NOT RIDE!
-While the engine is warm, drain the oil.
-Fill crankcase with a 50/50 mix of cheap 30W and Dextron auto transmission fluid.
-Start engine and run for 20 minutes at 3500 – 4000 rpms on the center stand…DO NOT RIDE with this mixture in crankcase…any loading might damage your engine. This will clean your engine internals and free-up piston rings. Don’t be alarmed …your engine will SMOKE quite a bit with this mixture.

-While the engine is warm, drain this oil/Dextron mixture.
-Replace oil filter (which I don't have at the moment)
-Refill crankcase with high quality oil. (any recommendations?)
-Adjust valves.

1984 GL1200
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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 07:01 AM
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Plan sounds pretty good....
Remove spark plugs and squirt wd40 (or brake fluid?) into each cylinder …this will help free up your rings and lube the cylinder walls.
-Replace plugs. (any recommendations?)


I wouldn't use brake fluid, some Dexron would be good to put in there. NGK (OEM by the way) plugs should be available in Kuwait.

I'd also address the fuel tank BEFORE trying to spin the engine over, unless it was stored dry you may find yourself pumping the carburetors full of some really nasty stuff!

As to oil recommendations, I don't know what brands are available in Kuwait, a lot of us are using Diesel 5w40 oil of various brands, look for oil listing JASO-MA or MA2 in the certifications, this has no friction modifiers and will be great for the bike's wet clutch. Stay away from any of the oils made for modern cars, they are usually loaded with friction modifiers and will make the clutch slip like crazy.

1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 07:23 AM
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the Shell Rotella oils in T4, T5, and T6 are okay to use, and should be available in Kuwait

over here, they sell for ~$13.00 / gallon US gallons at the Walmart stores

~ John


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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 10:55 AM
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Here are some things that might help https://www.goldwingfacts.com/GoldwingTips.htm.
You can try some of these online vendors;
https://www.partzilla.com/
http://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_select.asp
http://www.hondaparts-direct.com/
http://www.hondadirectline.com/
http://cyclemax.com/

About any heavy duty diesel 15/40 or automotive 10/40 or 20/50 as long as it doesn't have "energy conserving" in the little circle on the back of the container.

With no God over the state, the state then becomes not the defender of liberty but the definer of liberty.


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2010 1800 pearl yellow

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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 11:53 AM
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I think I would change the oil filter, even on the first change. What's in there may be plugged.

Avoid the sponge and oil type air filters. EMGO or Honda paper filters only.

I disagree with running the motor at 4,000 for 20 minutes. 2,000 maybe.

GL12 valves are hydraulic.
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 02:36 PM
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David Silver Spares is another place. Parts N More is one as well.
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you so much gentleman for all the recommendations, tips and links, I saved everything and will help me tremendously as I slowly get this baby back on the road.

I'll update this thread as I go along.

1984 GL1200
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 06:10 AM
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Since it has hydraulic valve adjusters which may have gone dry sitting, be advised it takes quite a bit of cranking to get them pressurized. The motor will sound like it has no compression. (Because it doesn’t) Crank 30 seconds, let starter cool, repeat. It may take a while.
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