Fix or sale for parts? - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 08:15 PM
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96 is still a good bike. However if you need to pay someone to work on it it will soon lose its value to you. I have a '98 and will do most of the work on it myself.
Plenty of help on this board you just need to ask.
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayouwinger View Post
The battery was dying as I was turning it over for a while trying to get it started,
The 1500s need peak voltage to fire. Try jumping it with a car battery. (car not running)
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 10:37 PM
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Bayou, I sent you a private message advising how to check/test the ignition circuit and battery. I also recognize you have the Interstate model (no cruise control and no reverse)....!! Two less systems to deal with....!!
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnaWingAndaPrayer View Post
Well I would not fix the slave cylinder till I had it running again. If the battery was going flat as you were cranking, CHARGE it up . The 1500 needs a good strong battery . Drain and refill the fuel tank with fresh gas and add a strong dosage of Sea Foam. Once charged turn on key, press start button with enricher (choke) on full. As the engine is turning over let off the start button and it may fire at that point. It's a problem of the ignition not getting full power while cranking. Thats one possibility for you can try with out getting to deep . If that gets it running we can help direct you to repair/replace the slave cylinder.

Another thought.... under the fuel door there is a vacuum operated fuel cutoff valve. You might take the valve out of service and connect the the fuel lines together just to be sure gas gets to the carbs. That is , if the electric fuel pump in the tank is working.
What he said. I have two 1500s, a 94 SE and a 96 Aspencade. In each case, if they set more than a week or two, they want to crank and crank but not fire. If I crank it for a minute or two, then walk away for 30 minutes or so, it fires right up when I come back. In each case, rebuilding the vacuum cutoff fixed it. I can now let one set all winter and it will still start in 10 or 15 seconds.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayouwinger View Post
I have a 96 1500 Goldwing with just over 65K miles. The miles makes it a nearly new bike for a Goldwing, but the years makes it obsolete. I bought the bike about two years ago when I still had some drivers license issues, but the bike was for sale for $2K. I could not pass it up, so I bought it. I soon found out that no dealership would work on a Goldwing over 10 years old. I found a mechanic that did work from his house to go through the bike and do a full once-over. His shop was the first stop when I purchased the bike, and I started the bike every two or three months and let the temp get to operating temp before shutting it back down. It always fired right up with no issues or strange noises. Over this last winter the clutch slave cylinder busted and leaked the clutch fluid out (I would work all the gears in the transmission while heating the motor up). Three of four months ago, the bike would not start. I have my license issues worked out now, but my bike is out of commission. I got the dealership to agree to look at it, and they said they would go through the fuel system for $2700, but it may go deeper once they get into it. My question is - should I try to get the bike fixed or sell it for parts? I am no bike mechanic, so my DIY skills are limited.
That my friend is totally up to you A Bike is only worth as much as your willing to give ,This being said you will have to figure this out for yourself
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 08:28 PM
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I have a 93 Aspencade with 112,000 miles, I have a volt meter so I can monitor the voltage. If for example it shows 11.5 volts the bike will not start, just not enough juice. As some has said, if it starts when you let off the starter button that indicates your battery does not have an adequate charge. I keep mine plugged into a battery tender when not riding. I hard wired the connection from the battery into the right pocket by the armrest. Very easy to open the door and hook it up, no pulling off side covers. Hope you get it going, there are a lot of miles left in that 1500.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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Location: West Monroe LA
Year: 1996
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Model: Interstate
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Thanks for all the input - I will go through these checks as I can.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 12:28 PM
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I hate to be a party pooper, but I say get the bike running and rideable and get rid of it. I respect the fact that you wanna ride and not work on the bike, but lets be honest, a 1996 bike is going to require a lot more tlc than a brand new bike.
Not to be harsh, but speaking as a mechanic myself, if its not in your comfort zone, don’t do it. Buy a new, or a lot newer, bike and enjoy it. It’s one thing to have an older, or classic, bike that you have the ability and time to tinker with, but if you don’t, it can just make life miserable and take all the fun out of owning a bike altogether.
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 02:30 PM
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Model: Had a 1994 GL1500 with 204,000 miles. Sold when I lost my job. Now that I am employed again, looking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayouwinger View Post
I have a 96 1500 Goldwing with just over 65K miles. The miles makes it a nearly new bike for a Goldwing, but the years makes it obsolete. I bought the bike about two years ago when I still had some drivers license issues, but the bike was for sale for $2K. I could not pass it up, so I bought it. I soon found out that no dealership would work on a Goldwing over 10 years old. I found a mechanic that did work from his house to go through the bike and do a full once-over. His shop was the first stop when I purchased the bike, and I started the bike every two or three months and let the temp get to operating temp before shutting it back down. It always fired right up with no issues or strange noises. Over this last winter the clutch slave cylinder busted and leaked the clutch fluid out (I would work all the gears in the transmission while heating the motor up). Three of four months ago, the bike would not start. I have my license issues worked out now, but my bike is out of commission. I got the dealership to agree to look at it, and they said they would go through the fuel system for $2700, but it may go deeper once they get into it. My question is - should I try to get the bike fixed or sell it for parts? I am no bike mechanic, so my DIY skills are limited.
$2,700 to go through your fuel system. Darn I hope they use a prophylactic when they're screwing people like that

Dale
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 03:15 PM
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Get the service manual with the electrical troubleshooting manual for your year model. With this manual you can work your way through most problems and follow suggested solutions (from this forum of course) to your problems. Good luck.
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