universal joint inspection - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I got the rotor from PartsGiant.com and the dampners and retainer from 2WheelPros.com. I should have the parts in a couple of days and I've got other stuff I can do until then.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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conclusion

Just in case anybody ever reads this thread again...I removed the rear wheel, final drive, drive shaft and u-joint. Did not find one thing that looked or felt in any way loose, damaged, or improperly lubricated.
Bought new dampners and found that the old ones were in as good shape as the new ones. Reinstalled the old ones.
I did, however, install a new rear brake rotor and pads because the original rotor had a pretty deep groove in both surfaces.
I guess I just have a vivid imagination, but at least I confirmed that everything is good in this area. I rode the bike 300+ miles over the weekend mostly at highway speeds.

The only thing that bothers me is that when I attempted to final-torque the four bolts on the final drive that connect it to the swing arm I found that one of them was absolutely impossible to access with a socket. The best I could do was to get a "crows foot" on it.
Thanks to everyone who responded to me on this thread and off-line.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by toolcraft4100 View Post
Just in case anybody ever reads this thread again...I removed the rear wheel, final drive, drive shaft and u-joint. Did not find one thing that looked or felt in any way loose, damaged, or improperly lubricated.
Bought new dampners and found that the old ones were in as good shape as the new ones. Reinstalled the old ones.
I did, however, install a new rear brake rotor and pads because the original rotor had a pretty deep groove in both surfaces.
I guess I just have a vivid imagination, but at least I confirmed that everything is good in this area. I rode the bike 300+ miles over the weekend mostly at highway speeds.

The only thing that bothers me is that when I attempted to final-torque the four bolts on the final drive that connect it to the swing arm I found that one of them was absolutely impossible to access with a socket. The best I could do was to get a "crows foot" on it.
Thanks to everyone who responded to me on this thread and off-line.
What you describe about the bolt on the final drive is very common everywhere in the indistry. My theory is the manufacturer is also aware that there is no way yoou can put a torque wrench on the bolt but they still list it so you have an idea of how tight to tighten it. I almost never use a torque wrench. After 50 years you get a pretty good feel for what needs to be done.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 12:12 PM
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Depending on how you align it, there is no problem using a crows foot on a torque wrench. As long as you don't change the effective length, no math required. Also there are open ended and box torque wrenches. The military loves those things. And thanks to new style A/C systems, there are even torque reading adjustable wrenches and swapping head versions.
And of course the good old calibrated wrist.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 01:44 PM
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What you describe about the bolt on the final drive is very common everywhere in the indistry. My theory is the manufacturer is also aware that there is no way yoou can put a torque wrench on the bolt but they still list it so you have an idea of how tight to tighten it. I almost never use a torque wrench. After 50 years you get a pretty good feel for what needs to be done.
I have a friend who has an "almost calibrated" wrist. He usually gets within 3 -4 ft lbs of the torque value.

But his wrist didn't work when torquing the front wheel lug nuts on a Motor Home (200 ft lb). That required a "BIG LONG" torque wrench
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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If I had removed everything the Clymer book told me to remove to get the U-Joint out I probably could have come from underneath and behind and got a socket and extension and torque wrench on it.

I also probably could have installed that short little SS brake line that I bought with the set and still have in the package in the cabinet.

The step-by-step instructions I found on this website skipped over the whole part about retorquing the left swingarm pivot bolt. I ground notches in a 1-1/4" socket to match the retaining nut and torgued the nut to spec. I visually "marked" the position of the pivot bolt hex head and it did not seem to move at all when I tightened the retainer bolt.

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by toolcraft4100 View Post
The only thing that bothers me is that when I attempted to final-torque the four bolts on the final drive that connect it to the swing arm I found that one of them was absolutely impossible to access with a socket. The best I could do was to get a "crows foot" on it.
Thanks to everyone who responded to me on this thread and off-line.
I use a box end and calibrated pull

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 10:16 AM
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Torque it with tire off.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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seriously?

CWN: with all due respect to you and your experience, the Clymer manual for my old '77 and for my '91 both say to torque the final drive bolts after you install the tire. Also the local Honda motorsports guru that I consult with made a point to tell me to do so. I do not have a Honda Service Manual.
I am confident that I turned the bolt that I could not tighten with my torque wrench and socket with as much or more torque as I did the others, so I am not concerned about my work.
I am an open-minded amateur so I would be happy to listen to why you think it's ok to torque these bolts before you install the tire.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 12:42 PM
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I too thought it was preferable to have the wheel in place before tightening the drive-line joint. Something about the alignment of the shaft.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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