Some questions on my 86 1200 restoration. Trying to diagnose a few issues. - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 1986
Model: GL1200 Interstate
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Some questions on my 86 1200 restoration. Trying to diagnose a few issues.

Hey guys!

Ya'll have been more than helpful with my project of getting my 86 1200 up and running, and she is, and shes running pretty decent except I have a few questions for you guys.

1) The shift lever is a little too high for my liking, is there an easy way to raise it? It looks like it's way back and behind the exhaust headers. Do I have to remove anything to get to it?

2) I need to have my choke on almost full for a good 5 minutes, before I can take it off and get it to idle at 900rpm. However when riding, the throttle is pretty choppy, it's been getting better, but it takes a second to respond to input, and takes a second to respond when I let off. It's most noticeable when changing gears. When I shift up, and give it gas, it takes a second to respond, and then jumps forward and starts accelerating, how can I smooth out my throttle? I have not sync'd them, as I don't have an item to do this.

I'm going to order some new air intake orings, and try and replace my air return under the carb (anyone have a good place to order a rebuild for it? In general any tips from anyone on getting it running smoothly with no issues? I've had the carbs off twice, and rebuilt it with a rebuild kit.

3) My temp gauge works perfectly, and works intune with my radiator fan, BUT my gas gauge does not work at all, the needle goes to empty when the bike is off, but when on, with a full fresh tank, it sits in the white just above the red E, how can I diagnose this issue? This is literally the only non working item on the bike, every turn signal, every bulb, every latch, every lock, everything else works including the clarion fm/am cassette player.

4) A huge issue - when I hit the front brake, even at a rolling speed, the forks dive down like nuts, I'd venture to say there's probably no fluid in it, I'm trying not to do a rebuild of them unless necessary to save money, so I might try just putting new fluid in first. Does anyone have a method, or good guide on how to put in fork oil without it dumping all over the garage?

Thank you guys
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Xpistos View Post

1) The shift lever is a little too high for my liking, is there an easy way to raise it? It looks like it's way back and behind the exhaust headers. Do I have to remove anything to get to it?

All you can do is try to get the lever off the shaft. I think mine come of okay. Be aware that there's very little working room for the lever to move. Get it wrong and you lose up, or down, shifts.

2) I need to have my choke on almost full for a good 5 minutes, before I can take it off and get it to idle at 900rpm. However when riding, the throttle is pretty choppy, it's been getting better, but it takes a second to respond to input, and takes a second to respond when I let off. It's most noticeable when changing gears. When I shift up, and give it gas, it takes a second to respond, and then jumps forward and starts accelerating, how can I smooth out my throttle? I have not sync'd them, as I don't have an item to do this.

I'm going to order some new air intake orings, and try and replace my air return under the carb (anyone have a good place to order a rebuild for it? In general any tips from anyone on getting it running smoothly with no issues? I've had the carbs off twice, and rebuilt it with a rebuild kit.

You can try bench syncing the carbs with them still on the bike, but I'd suspect, if you bought an aftermarket carb kit that it could be the problem.

3) My temp gauge works perfectly, and works intune with my radiator fan, BUT my gas gauge does not work at all, the needle goes to empty when the bike is off, but when on, with a full fresh tank, it sits in the white just above the red E, how can I diagnose this issue? This is literally the only non working item on the bike, every turn signal, every bulb, every latch, every lock, everything else works including the clarion fm/am cassette player.

You can take the sending unit out and probably fix the issue with a cleaning. If not, used ones are available on eBay.


4) A huge issue - when I hit the front brake, even at a rolling speed, the forks dive down like nuts, I'd venture to say there's probably no fluid in it, I'm trying not to do a rebuild of them unless necessary to save money, so I might try just putting new fluid in first. Does anyone have a method, or good guide on how to put in fork oil without it dumping all over the garage?

It's pretty easy to get the caps off if you still have the stock springs. A little harder with Progressives. Just jack the wheel up till the fork is extended and use the correct socket while standing on the pegs. That's the only way to know what the level is. There's a drain hole on the bottom so you can get most of the sludge out.

And, where is your anti-dive set?


Thank you guys
...

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
...
Okay seems, I won't be moving the shifter then, it's weird. When I go to shift, barely touching it, causes it to upshift, but thats because I have to raise my foot so high. I'll have to get use to it.

I almost had no option beside an aftermarket carb kit, the only carb jets where so gunked up, that they were almost seized up. The small float needle with the filter was actually stuck inside of the housing, one diagrahm needle was bent etc

Where is the sending out located for the fuel tank?

My anti dive is set at 2, on both sides, and I have 6psi in the front suspension.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 07:33 PM
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Besides using aftermarket jets I would guess the float setting is wrong.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Besides using aftermarket jets I would guess the float setting is wrong.
I didn't even know you could adjust that.

I had no choice but to get the aftermarket jets, the only ones where so corroded the varnish/gunk almost seemed to eat into the brass itself.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpistos View Post
I didn't even know you could adjust that.

I had no choice but to get the aftermarket jets, the only ones where so corroded the varnish/gunk almost seemed to eat into the brass itself.
Honda does sell parts for these things. Yes the floats are adjustable and it is critical to do it right.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Honda does sell parts for these things. Yes the floats are adjustable and it is critical to do it right.
Any points in the right direction on how to adjust the floats correctly?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 11:14 PM
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If you didn't take the floats out and mess with them, they are probably pretty close and not the problem. Do you still have the original jets?

If not:

https://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_...987&fveh=13049

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 11:23 PM
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Also, using kit, (non Keihin) float needles is universally agreed to be a bad idea.

Here's the good stuff.

http://power-barn.com/keihin-float-n...m-carburetors/

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 11:41 PM
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I can't find a quality tutorial on GL12 float adjustment. This is from the Honda manual. '86 is, I believe supposed to be 7mm instead of 7.5.

You have to have the carb at exactly the correct angle before doing this.
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