1986 gl1200 sei
I have a new to me SEi that I'm trying to sort out.
When I turn the key on. The Fuel & Fuel system lights light up.
I can hear the pump prime and then stop. I then hit the start button and the bike fires up.
After running at Idle for about 4-5 minutes the bike shuts down by itself.
I can hear the pump still running and a gurgling sound.
I opened the gas cap and I can see the fuel is returning to the tank.
Do you think the pressure regulator is bad (Staying open)
By flooding the engine,causing it to quit?
When I turn on the ignition. I see the Rear computer lights light up then go out.
When the bike dies.
The Fuwel system light doesn't light anymore when I cycle the ign. or flip the kill switch.
I see weird stuff on the LCD panel. (When I flip the kill switch)
With the key on. The Fuel light comes on, but not the Fuel system or Cruise light?.
If I keep flipping the kill switch the Tach blocks move showing 998 RPM's but the bike isn't running??.
The PO said he gave up on the bike believing it was a bad kill switch?.
At the time I bought it.
Bike has sat for 3-4 yrs.
Fuel inlet hose was off the pump?
the PO gave up after that.
I drained the fuel & replaced with fresh fuel & Battery.
At that point the bike started up after a minute or so.
So I never installed the Fuel pump I bought (PO had a pill bottle on the fuel inlet hose??)
When I put the new battery in. I couldn't hear the pump run at all.
Now it won't stop running after a few minutes of the bike actually running.
Any suggestions to try??
Edited to add.
I changed the Rear Computer (Still no dash fuel system light)
I changed the Start cluster, (Still no dash fuel light.)
All the connections and 30 Amp fuses are nice and tight, (Checked continuity -power going through all connections.)
I took out the dogbones to see if one might be cracked?/-They were both good.
Dash display is still acting crazy after the kill switch cluster change!!.
I had all these spare parts from a running SEI that I just parted out.
Time to look at the two grounds under the faux tank.
Number one, I don't think that either the kill switch or the pressure regulator is bad..
When the bike is initially cranked up it should go from idle to about 1200-1400rpm for a minute or so until it warms up and then return to idle @ 1000rpm + 100rpm.. Does it do this?? Can you rev the bike up after she warms up? If so, is there a "stumble" when you roll the throttle? If there is there might be a bad spot in the TPS that can cause the bike to die at idle... For starters I would tap the idle up to about 1200rpm after she's warmed up just to see what happens with her. Use a flashlight and look at the linkage at the rear of the engine, roll the throttle with the engine off and you'll see the adjustment screw in the center rear of the engine.
Try this and let's go from there....
Thank you Don. for chiming in here.
I removed the donor parts and reinstalled the OEM parts.
After I reconnected the Kill switch cluster everything was now functioning again.
But after some thought, I was moving the fuse box around to see if I could see the elusive two grounds under the faux tank.
So what Did I do to get it back online?
I had charged the battery (Bike been sitting a few weeks.)
Got to have a fully functioning battery for testing.
So I let the bike run for about 15-20 minutes (It never died this run) I Might add the longest it has since I bought it DOA.
All the gauges were normal. Charging at 14.1-14.3
Now being the investigator I am.
I needed to know what go it up and running.
The bike has a open hose. (Nosier than normal.)
My stethoscope says its under the air box plenum.
So I pulled the faux tank. to see if the Air box was sealed tight?
It has new filter in it.
I Think I found the suspect (Connection)
Smallest plug of the three out of the fuse box.
I'm soaking both ends overnight to dissolve the corrosion. (I'll pack all three with dielectric grease to keep moisture out of them)
Looking at the Plenum from my parts bike. I can see where the Vac leak is on the new SEi.
The Plenum has to come out. (wish I knew how to post pic's here)
I want to detail the engine anyways, So no worries there.
Now for Don's questions.
When the bike did start. It would idle at 1100.
Then drop to the mid 800 RPM range after it warmed up.
The eng did stumble when I rolled on the throttle.
My though at that time was.
It needs a good dose of Techron/Seafoam to get the injectors cleaned. (Sat for at least 3 yrs before I rescued it)
I been concentrating on parts restoration the past few weeks.
Until I tried to run the bike one last time before,
I removed all the parts for the transformation.
Kind of Glad I tried to run it and found the problem now instead of after I put it all back together to find out "why" the PO gave up on it!!.
I love these older bikes-my 87A was bullet proof, as was the LTD.
I like these injected bikes the most.
After I got it back online today.
The stumble if gone.
I tried shutting the bike down at least a dozen times to watch the dash.
The cray kill switch things I seen this morning are history.(poor connection issue)
I don't know how to upload a pic here? (of the dash with all the lights lit up.)
I've owned a LTD and the SEI I just stripped was a running bike. So I know what a good running LTD/SEi dash looks like.
So I'm hoping the fuse box connection was my Huckleberry?.
All the OEM parts are back on and the Computer shows 5 red lights. then then go out after a few seconds.
You thoughts Don, on what I found?? (Thank You Sir!)
I think you discovered 99% of what was wrong with her without my help!! Disconnecting and reconnecting everything seems to have done the trick!! Make sure you do set the idle to 1000rpm's after she's warmed up good and I believe you'll be set!!
The other 1%?? Ride her!! She needs to be ridden!!! BADLY!!!!!
This 1" hose to the left of the White Vac T is split causing the noise.
Its amazing what comes back from memory. (I had a 87A years ago)
I'll reset the idle as you suggest.
Picked up this manual to add to my manual collection.
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