The Pooch is Screwed. - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Glendale, Arizona, USA
Model: 1987 GL1200 Interstate 290,000 miles
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First, thank you all for your help.

Okay, I'm not really clear on what I'm reading. Checking the voltage on the cable? You mean with the battery still connected but touching the cables and not the post with the meter probe?

And I don't get the shunt thing. Which wires do I ground for that?

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
I never heard of it causing a high charge, but I have seen it blow diodes. Doesn't take long either of both vehicles charging.

So, a blown diode won't cause it to overcharge?

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:15 PM
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Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin, USA
Year: 1999
Make: GL1500 SE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
So, a blown diode won't cause it to overcharge?
No a bad diode will cause the alternator to put out less. Remember it does two functions. Regulator and rectifier. The stator makes AC voltage which will not charge a battery. The rectifier part changes the AC to DC so the battery can accept that. The regulator on your bike regulates the voltage so it doesn't get too high or low. Any voltage in excess of what its limit is will be shunted (Shorted over a resistor) to ground.
So the diodes (rectifier) change the AC to DC and the regulator throws away unwanted voltage. (regulator) Of course it needs a pathway to dump unwanted voltage. That is what the green wires are for. They carry unwanted power to the ground to get rid of it. Should be 2 greens. Check both the same way. If you pierce the wires and test with your voltmeter on AC it should read near near zero. If you see higher voltage there is an issue with the green wires or connections. Fix the pierce with some nail polish to keep the weather out. Are you using a voltmeter you trust?

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:29 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
First, thank you all for your help.

Okay, I'm not really clear on what I'm reading. Checking the voltage on the cable? You mean with the battery still connected but touching the cables and not the post with the meter probe?
The other way around Dennis. If there was a bad connection between the cable end and the battery post you could have 15.6 volts from cable end to cable end but only 13 volts from post to post. The corrosion acts like a resistor and causes voltage drop. Go to the horses moth. Post to post.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 05:26 PM
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Location: Bellevue, Washington, USA
Year: 1972, 1981, 1985
Make: CB450, GL1100, GL1200I
Model: K5, Standard, Interstate
Posts: 1,023
Dennis,
You should be able to measure the voltage across the battery terminals. There will be the battery voltage when the engine is off. If the charging system i shealthy you should see battery voltage at idle and then as the RPM increases the voltage will increase to about 14.1 volts. I have a good used stock regulator. I took it off my '85 last year when I did the stator. I put a Ricks stator and regulator on the 1200. Send me a PM if you need it. I will make you a good deal.

Jim Palmer
Current rides:
\'85 GL1200I Garage Find
\'81 GL1100 Std
\'72 CB450K5
My \'81 Restoration:
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 05:46 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fairfield, Virginia, USA
Year: 1997
Make: Honda
Model: '97 GL1500SE/ '98 Lehman GTL Trike
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Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
So, a blown diode won't cause it to overcharge?
No, but it will introduce AC hum nor squeal into your electrics, as rectifier is compromised.

As I recall, there is a black wire leading to the regulator/rectifier that provides a battery voltage input ort signal to the regulator. If it develops a resistance through a terminal, it can report a lower voltage and the regulator pumps up output, looking to get battery voltage up to where it should be. Since it's getting a low signal, it may be seeing only 13.5 VDC when you check the battery with a separate meter and find 15.3VDC. There is a mod aimed at getting a truer reading to the regulator, involves a relay triggered by the former black wire. Below is the schematic I saw on it. My 1200 usually charged in 13.5 to low 14s usually, I was gonna do this mod.


Don't know if it'll help you.
Could it be that you are just seeing the results of a long eroding connection? I don't know. Regulators do fail on occasion.
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File Type: jpg 1200 Charging Mod.JPG (196.0 KB, 5 views)

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1997 GL-1500 SE / 1998 Lehman GTL Trike
...(Candy Spectra Red )

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Turns out I still have the OEM off the '85 parts bike. Before I change it, I want to look at the suggestions I've gotten here, to make sure the one that's on there is really toasted.

I am a stickler for clean connections but I want to at least check first.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bellevue, Washington, USA
Year: 1972, 1981, 1985
Make: CB450, GL1100, GL1200I
Model: K5, Standard, Interstate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
Turns out I still have the OEM off the '85 parts bike. Before I change it, I want to look at the suggestions I've gotten here, to make sure the one that's on there is really toasted.

I am a stickler for clean connections but I want to at least check first.
I thought you would use the one off the parts bike. I get it about clean connections, but dirty connections will make the voltage lower. There are different ways a voltage regulator can fail. It is possible for the portion of the regulator that controls the voltage to fail and allow the full DC output of the alternator into the bike's electrical system. You are on the right track to check the output. place your voltmeter across the battery. Check the voltage with the engine off. It should read between 12v (dead battery) to 12.7 (fully charged). If you just ran the bike it might read higher, but it will go down after a few minutes. Then start the bike. At idle the voltage should read the battery voltage (or slightly higher). Rev the bike and about 3,000 to 3,500 rpm you should see the full output voltage between 13.7 and 14.1 volts. You should never see more than 14.1 volts. Just to be sure, all the lights are on and working while taking this voltage reading. If for some reason the headlight is out then the voltages can read higher. If you see more than 14.1 volts, the electrolyte will boil off and you will need a new battery soon. Check the voltages and if they are out of spec swap the regulator/rectifier and recheck. Let me know what you come up with.

Jim Palmer
Current rides:
\'85 GL1200I Garage Find
\'81 GL1100 Std
\'72 CB450K5
My \'81 Restoration:
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