Run bad gl1500 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Run bad gl1500

Gl1500 1997 200,000 Km

It runs bad like carb not sync but they are

Idle rough but carb well sync
If I disconnect vacuum hose on right side to connect vacuum gage with eng running it dies instantly but if I disconnect left there is no difference

I replaced vacuum line between tow carb 90 deg was burned and also two lines on left intake manifold also 90 deg collapsed

But still run bad cold itís a little better but as soon as it warms up itís bad put put put put is bad

2000 rpm and over its excellent lots of power and smooth .

Many thanks for your support

Norm.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 04:55 PM
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You have probably noticed that most tomes we send people in search of vacuum leaks. That is because they are so often the cause of issues like you describe. When you say it runs better when cold, I bet that is with the choke on some? That is typical of a vacuum leak. The leak makes the engine lean. Adding choke makes it closer to where it needs to be. I would really search out vacuum leaks. My first choice is prpane around the entire induction system. Ether is my next best. More and more carb cleaners are not capable of increasing RPM so I have just given up on carb cleaner . Propane works good because it is heavier than air and it will even find leaks on the bottom of hoses etc. Check it out and check back.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Many thanks Mike

Even without choke cold in garage is start well no choke and when it warm up it starts to put put put . I agree with the vacuum leak and will do propane test on Tuesday. Is there any vacuum operated components that could be defective. I mean other than rubber hose ?

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 07:15 PM
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Underneath the carbs there is a rubber heat shield. Under that heat shield is a rubber hose that goes to the ECM and that hose has a bad reputation. It turns tpo mush and starts to leak. Replace it with a long piece of hose. That way the angle is not so sharp. That is one possibility to look at. Does adding choke make it better. Might be hard to say as the RPM comes up and you ask is it running better because of the RPM or the choke? Might try adding a little then a little more???

Mike

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the rubber shield is gone I ripped it out . The hose that runs to the ECM I replaced yesterday same as the other two that are on the left side manifold between spark plugs.

As for choke it is very hard to figure as rpm increases. I will try also to choke it by hand not using lever but covering the carb instead.

One thing I noticed. When I unplug the front hose on left manifold and plug the hole on manifold and use mighty vac to keep petcock open my carbs become unsync. Tuesday I will try just for fun to sync carb like that as a test and also perform th propane vacuum hunt

More to follow.

Norm.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj norm View Post
Gl1500 1997 200,000 Km
It runs bad like carb not sync but they are
Idle rough but carb well sync
If I disconnect vacuum hose on right side to connect vacuum gage with eng running it dies instantly but if I disconnect left there is no difference
Carb sync unless someone jacked the screw 2-3 or more turns out of whack has nothing to do with poor running. I suspect your engine is idling on one bank of cylinders, the right side. Left side dead evidenced by stalling when right port screw removed and no change with left removed. The simple addition of a dribble or two of carb clean spray to left carb throat will confirm or deny, if RPM picks up then it confirms lean on left side. Then on to vacuum leaks and carb fuel delivery/emission component problems on that side.

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2000 rpm and over its excellent lots of power and smooth .
An engine with hard fault problems at lower RPM never magically develops its' full potential for power and smoothness at a higher RPM, they just get covered up.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 06:06 AM
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One thing I noticed. When I unplug the front hose on left manifold and plug the hole on manifold and use mighty vac to keep petcock open my carbs become unsync. .
That tells you there is a vacuum leak from somewhere on that hose you unplugged. Could be the petcock.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks JD sounds like a good trick


An engine with hard fault problems at lower RPM never magically develops its' full potential for power and smoothness at a higher RPM, they just get covered up.


I agree that itís covered, also agree that idle circuit is in fault but is it carb or vacuum octopus.



This is a trick that I will do for sure to separate the two possibilities.

Many thanks

Norm.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys.

No I did not have the time yet to do the propane test.

However I whent to a freind of mine how has a Goldwing scrap yard and I picked up a complete circuitry of the vacuum system from 1999 gl 1500.

I will make a complete mock-up of the vacuum circuit. With real components and will take pictures from all angles that should be a great help for all Members.

More to follow soon.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 01:59 PM
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Pull the carbs, and lather on some Grease (Preferably "K&N Air Filter Grease") during re-assembly, to the (2) Rubber Isolators that connect the Carbs to the Intake Manifold... covering the mating surfaces.



This will Seal the joint that often leaks, causing same problem you describe (eg Lean at idle; seems to go-away at higher rpm's).
Also makes it a breaze in the future, to remove/install the carbs.


Those isolators are get hard after awhile, and no longer seal... allowing additional air to enter the manifold, that has by-passed the carb (eg The fuel/air mixture gets Lean)


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