okay people I'm sure you're probably getting tired of hearing from me LOL I have some little issues with my GL 1285 aspencade. when it is in neutral and I rev the engine up the RPMs drop but when I'm cruising down the highway or Road in 4th gear and I want to shift down to 3rd gear pull in on the clutch the RPMs will drop about 200 and stay there then I drop it down a gear and it starts dropping RPMs normally. I have no clue Help plz.
I guess I need to proofread my post before I post them. It drops about 200 RPMs from where I'm cruising at and doesn't go down anymore until I downshift and then it will start dropping the RPMs like it normally would. When I'm in neutral in the bike is on the side stand or Center stand I can wrap it up and the RPMs will drop down like normal
As Dennis said first be sure the linkage is not the issue.
If you have eliminated the linkage as a possibility the next thing you need to investigate is lean fuel mixtures. Lean mixtures can make an engine hunt up and down or if bad enough the RPM will hang. Any chance you have an issue with fuel delivery? Might be there is enough fuel to "keep up" at idle but gors lean when you are going down the road and using more fuel. Another possibility is a vacuum leak but I can't answer how it might be OK at idle then have the issue on the road. That is why my first guess might be fuel delivery. Only because it makes sense to me. Of course that doesn't mean much.
What is the RPMs you are cruising at? I suspect it is the 4th&5th gear timing advance that is holding the RPMs up. Try putting it on the center stand, start the engine, pull in the clutch and shift it up to 4th and see if the engine speed increases.
Yes throttle is snapping back ok. It is weird when on the side kickstand and in (N) I can Rev it up and does fine. I will check the cables out make sure the are not pinched or in a bind any where. But I would not think they are because does fine when in (N). Where do you buy that tool they use to lube the cables ? And do you have to disconnect the cables under the false tank or just at the throttle grip to lube them?
Where do you buy that tool they use to lube the cables ? And do you have to disconnect the cables under the false tank or just at the throttle grip to lube them?
I was thinking of that too. Not releasing all the way. And maybe when I shift down it jars it just enough and let's it full disengage . What would cause the clutch not to totally disengage ?
No it never wants to go when I am at a,stop light . Not at all. Even if I rev it up it dies not move. Now when she is cold or stay over nite I have to keep the front brake on because it wants to jump when it starts. Sometimes pulls just a smig on the dirt crank with the starter but only on the 1st start up of the day then after that if I start it in 1st great pull in on the clutch very little movement forward right at start up when it fires up. But not enought that I née the break lie a cold start up.
Have you adjusted the free play in your throttle? It should have at least 1/8” but not more than 3/16” free play with the handlebars straight ahead. Rotate the bars from lock to lock checking that there is some free play at all positions.
I think you have the vacuum line to the ignition unit connected in the wrong place. It should be on the nipple on the inside of #4 carb under the throttle shaft.
Pay attention to what Dave is saying. It makes perfect sense. :nerd: There are two kinds of vacuum you can get from your engine. Manifold and venturi. They work exactly opposite of each other. As one goes up the other goes down. If you have the line from the ICU connected wrong it will do exactly what your symptoms are. There are 2 requirements to create the issue. The line is in the wrong place and the bike must be in 4th or 5th gear. Makes perfect sense. That is why there is no issue when idling in neutral on the sidestand. The bike has to be in 4th or 5th for the ignition to advance. Both are present on the road where the issue shows up. Only the line is in the wrong place when on the sidetand. That is why he suggested putting the bike on the centerstand in 4th or 5th gear to see if RPM increases. So, now get to it!:ROFL::ROFL:
YES SIR !!! LOL .I will get to it as soon as I am done visiting with my Brother and his wife. They live in China but are visiting here in the GREAT USA. But I have never moved any lines at all never had the engine out of the frame never pulled the carbs . So it can't be that . Only thing I have done is but on SS Braided brake lines complete set front and back and added a extra fuse block to the bike. Never had these issue B4 wing did seat for almost a year in 2018 but that is all. And these never started untill I added the extra fuse block but can't see how that would make a difference . Brake lins and fuse block both added these year . Ran fine after brake lines were added I think only rode it 2x then had to put it up again stop ridding do to another surgery then added fuse block and now have these problem.
As I said earlier that engines that hunt or surge are usually caused by lean fuel mixtures. Now I agree if you never moved a hose around it is not likely the electronic advance. I read one of your earlier posts where you said if you accelerate in neutral suddenly the engine can shut off. Another sign of lean conditions. If you put that together with all the times you are not riding it makes me wonder if the carbs might not be a little varnished. You might try pouring an entire can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas and take a nice long ride. You can mix Seafoam up to 50/50 so a can will not hurt anything. Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
No I have not checked for vacume leaks yet. What is the best way to do that. Never had done that B4. I have to say you guys are a great help to me and others on here . I really appreciate everthing ever one is,doing to help me figure out the problem. THANKS GUYS
OK I did like Dave said to do on the 5th post. When I get to 4th gear rpms increase about +140 to +160 rpms. I do want to thank you for your patience. been spending time with my brother and sister-in-law that are from China and trying to get the bike ready for small road trip also so my plate has been pretty full thank you for your patience.I wI'll get a can of starting fluid tomorrow and check that out too.
Starting fluid is OK but use it sparingly. If you use too much it can get in the snorkel and drive you crazy. That is why I like propane best. It is heavier than air and it will even find leaks in the bottom of a hose. That is not uncommon for a hose to wear through the bottom from laying on a hot object for years and years.
Check above first but if a leak is found the propane would be drawn in the leak and the pitch of the engine would change. Usually increase RPM. Go to Youtube and search finding vacuum ;eak with propane.Oh, screw the jet out of the torch or you might not have enough gas coming from the tank to do the job.
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