Partzilla says that left rotor pads are different from right ones.
Bandit doesnt say anything.
Whats the story? Do we have 3 different parts number for 3 rotors? that would be stupid
Partzilla say that left rotor pads are different from right ones.
Bandit doesnt say anything.
Whats the story? Do we have 3 different parts number for 3 rotors? that would be stupid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsPNU6iV5Vs
The pads come with a shim on one pad. That is what makes the left and right different. The shim has to go on the piston side of the caliper. I think you could interchage them but the shim would be on the wrong side on one of the calipers. The shim is stainless and it protect (insulates) the fluid from the heat of the brake pad.
The pads come with a shim on one pad. That is what makes the left and right different. The shim has to go on the piston side of the caliper. I think you could interchage them but the shim would be on the wrong side on one of the calipers. The shim is stainless and it protect (insulates) the fluid from the heat of the brake pad.
I see a difference of opinion on how the pads are installed. It appears that the pad with the anti-rattle shim goes on the opposite side from the brake pistons, according to the Service Manual, Parts Manual and the You Tube video that is posted here.
From the service manual under "FRONT BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT"
"Install new brake pads into the caliper body with the shim facing toward the wheel side so that their ends rest into the pad retainer on the bracket properly."
Purchased OEM from Partzilla for about $142 for all 3 sets and shipping.
I looked into sintered and decided not to get them.I think they're a bit abrasive on the rotor
I used to own Fred H CDs on bike maintenance.They got lost somewhere in NJ
Anybody knows the bleeding order for foot brake ?, The hand brake only works one of the front caliper (left?)
How I do the clutch?
I have done all this a few years back but me forgot.
Where do I find info in here?
It would be nice if we had stickies at the top of technical forum
How to ......anything
I used to own Fred H CDs on bike maintenance.They got lost somewhere in NJ
Anybody knows the bleeding order for foot brake ?, The hand brake only works one of the front caliper (left?)
How I do the clutch?
I have done all this a few years back but me forgot.
Where do I find info in here?
It would be nice if we had stickies at the top of technical forum
How to ......anything
In your other tread we talked about linked brakes (about an week ago:laugh - remember ?
When you are riding the handbrake operates all 3 calipers , but HYDRALICALLY is is connected to BOTH front calipers .
Thank you all for great info. Now I have all I need to proceed.
Smeden, from pic 4 posted by RW it looks like the front lever operates both front calipers while the foot lever operates all the brakes.
I see its fairly complicated. What is the purpose of the secondary master cylinder
The diagram is a bit confusing (4) withe the line from the bottom of the delay valve intercepting the horizontal line. I dont think they are connected, it would make no sense. Can anyone narrate a description what happens when you press hand lever and then foot pedal? Approximately how long is the delay valve set for and what is the proportional pressure on the valve. (ie 1/4 ,1/3, 1/2)?
I'll take a shot at it. When you pull the hand lever it operates 2 pistons on the left caliper & 1 on the right, it also causes the secondary master cylinder to send fluid to 2 pistons on the rear caliper. The foot pedal operates 1 piston on the left front, 2 on the right front and 1 on the rear, as it operates the left front it also operates the secondary master cylinder which operates the other 2 on the rear. No idea on the question about the delay valve, I don't think it actually delays anything. Or the proportioning valve, probably not published info.
Sophisticated. Thanks Dave. I have to remember this.
It looks like the only difference is the foot pedals actuate 3 cylinders in the back while the front actuates 2
The front brake actuates 3 in the front and indirectly 2 in the rear, the rear actuates 3 in the front and all 3 in the rear, 2 indirectly. Both actuate the antidive, the front indirectly.
The way I understand it is if you use enough brake anywhere the bike will want to dive in the front of course. The left front caliper will try to rotate and stroke the secondary master cylinder. The secondary master cylinder will send oil to thhe rear brakes to pull the rear of the bike down. At the same time the secondary master will also send pressure to the anti-dive valve causing the piton to block the port in the shock stopping shock travel. (dive in the front).Here is some more pictures.
This wording makes me think the delay valve holds off the right brake unless there is a panic stop and you are really standing on the pedal???? Most of the time it uses one caliper like the other Goldwings. Just an extra layer of safety???.
Also guess the purpose of the proportional control valve is so the secondary master can not lock the rear tire when the front dives and the rear gets light?????
Seems like an overly complicated system. What is wrong with right lever = front brakes, right pedal = rear brakes? Even better just add ABS and now you're cooking with gas.
Was all this made just to coddle idiots that only use the rear brakes from slamming into things?
When I first got my 1500 I was very disappointed when grabbing a handful of front brake and the bike basically laughed at me. I know it's heavy, but still. And I still worry about some drive-through's where the front wheel could be in a puddle of oil and water on polished concrete, where even my feet hardly have any traction and I wonder how much force the pedal is sending to the front wheel.
Seems like an overly complicated system. What is wrong with right lever = front brakes, right pedal = rear brakes? Even better just add ABS and now you're cooking with gas.
Was all this made just to coddle idiots that only use the rear brakes from slamming into things?
It's a wonderful thing, saved my bacon big time once. Rolling up the interstate at night, lady friend on the back, trailer loaded with too much stuff, feet on the highway pegs. Suddenly 2 deer in the middle of the road and I grabbed the front brake, girlfriend slammed into my back and I couldn't get my foot to the rear brake but it stopped straight, true and fast. 1800s are available with ABS.
Ok, I can see the advantage of a front to rear connection on a bike this heavy where the rear brake actually has some real stopping power. I'm not a fan of highway pegs, but my hand is always faster than my foot, so I can see the advantage. Still don't see the need for rear to front linking. Maybe if my grip strength was shot it would be important to me. I'm always open to having my mind changed about things.
Good thing you weren't on a 1500 when that happened, you would have been SOL for sure. I feel like I will most likely get an 1800 one of these days.
I have anther question.
Im going to drain the brake reservoir and fill it with fresh fluid. Then my wife is going to operate the pedal and I, the opening and closing of the bleeder ( vacuum pump is back in NJ)
1)How do I know how much fluid to circulate till all the hoses have new fluid?
2) if I had the vacuum pump do I still need to pump the brakes or just tie the pedal squeezed?. Or nothing at all, Just vacuum the bleeders?
Get a 2 foot length of clear vinyl hose and a clear container. Put the hose on the bleeder and the other end in the container with a small amount of fluid so the end of the hose is in the fluid, open the bleeder, pump the brake, let off slowly, pause then repeat until the fluid is low, refill and do it 3 more times. A 1 person job.
1800 brake pads wear is different on the front due to when you apply the rear brake only, you are also applying the right front pad at the same time ..........these brakes are linked .......but only to one side of the front .
when you apply the front brakes only you apply both sides of the front.
conclusion is that the front pads will likely wear at different rates.
I think I got that right but I could be wrong . But my 1800 showed wear on only the right side pads the left front was just fine.
I went ahead and ordered all three pads only to find that the left front was not needed.
Grateful to the vendor who took them back for a full refund after 6 mo.
Also I will only order OEM Honda pads many are cheaper but just turn to dust and wear out too fast.
Not quite, when you apply the rear brake it applies both front, 2 pistons on the left and 1 on the right. It's usually the left front that wears faster.
Thanks Dave for the clarification. Lucky I said I MAY be wrong.
it seemed weird when my wing nut explained it to me regarding my 1800. none of my previous rides had linked brakes.
So we all learn a little from the master.
Just not possible to do and keep the price low enough. It would seriously hamper production or they would have to have a separate special order production line. What they should do is offer the popular options package without having to buy something nobody wants, namely their NAV. Make it a dealer add on if someone wants it.
This is the procedure out of the OEM manual to follow for brake bleeding:
Fill the reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed container.
Operate the brake lever several times to bleed air from the master cylinder.
LEVER BRAKE LINE FLUID AIR BLEEDING
Remove the following:
– Right Front brake Caliper Cover
– Left Front Brake Caliper Cover
• Feed fluid and bleed air from the lever brake line in the following sequence:
1. Right front caliper upper bleed valve.
2. Left front caliper lower bleed valve.
PEDAL BRAKE LINE FLUID AIR BLEEDING
Remove Right Forward Engine Side Cover for access to rear brake reservoir.
Feed fluid and bleed air from the pedal brake line in the following sequence:
1. Left front caliper upper side bleed valve
2. Right front caliper lower side bleed valve
3. Rear caliper lower side bleed valve
4. Anti-dive plunger bleed valve
5. Rear caliper upper side bleed valve
Been doing that since way way before speed bleeders were invented. Why change now and waste gas money on something I don't need but once a year? If I wasn't cheap I would be flat broke. :ROFL:
Yup, I've heard it many times. The cheapest part on a Gold Wing is the rider.
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