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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
Peppi-Le-Pew
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Plaistow, NH
Year: 2012
Make: Honda
Model: 2012 Blue GL1800 Level 3
Posts: 231
GL1500 Auxiliary Shifter Pivot For sale

I have permission from the Admin to post this pivot and make it available to those that want one. You will be smiling after your spend an hour installing this pivot. I only have this item available and nothing else.

What this pivot does is amazing.
No more shifter wobble
Prevents: Shifter shaft oil seal failure, case bearing failure, missed shifts and hopefully the 4th gear issue that so many of these 1500's seem to develop.

The way it works is an additional pivot is added to the shifter shaft that pivots on the same axis as the case bearing. It has the same geometry as the existing shifter. This pivot ends up carrying the brunt of the pounding and the existing bearing becomes more of a balance point. It really works great. No more shifter wobble. This means all the energy you exert on the foot lever is transmitted where it is supposed to go. Directly into the transmission instead of taking up free travel and slop. I have a patent-pending status on this so you won't find anything like it anywhere else.
Every GL1500 will benefit from this inexpensive fix.

I am posting some pictures of the pivot installed. It bolts in place of the rear lower engine guard attaching bolt. Cut away some of the inner heat shield to make room and forget it is there. Can't be seen from the outside.

The directions are shown below as they come in the package.

Gl1500 Auxiliary Shifter Pivot Installation
You have purchased a product designed to last the lifetime of your Gl1500. Pivot assembly is made from billet 6061 aluminum, Teflon coated bushing and high quality fasteners. Once properly in place the only recommended maintenance will be an occasional tightness check. Thank you for purchasing this pivot.
The first step in this process is to find a safe stable area to set your GL1500 on the center stand. Use care as the motorcycle falling will cause serious damage and possible death. Use safety glasses when working with any tools to prevent eye injury. I recommend placing cardboard or a tarp underneath to provide a clean comfortable work site. Place the transmission in neutral position.

Tools needed: 1/4 ratchet and a 4Ē extension
8mm socket and wrench
10mm socket
12mm socket
12mm open end wrench
5mm Hex head wrench
6mm Hex head wrench
Phillips screwdriver
Straight slot screwdriver
Tin snips or Dremel type cutoff wheel
Sandpaper

1: Draw a line on the foot lever through the splines on the shaft as an index to realign the foot lever later. Remove foot lever cinch bolt and foot lever.
2: Remove the Phillips screws retaining the lower front cowl and remove cowl.
3: Remove left cover over the alternator using care to prevent retainer tab breakage or cracking the ABS plastic.
4: Remove the two 8mm bolts holding the rear shield and remove the shield.
5: Remove the lower three 10mm attaching nuts for the lower front shield. There is a 10mm attaching bolt behind the front cowl and one 8mm located on top. No need to remove the cable from the heat vent flap unless you donít have a cut off tool. Lay the shield off to the side.
6: Remove the lower rear 12mm bolt attaching the engine guard to the frame. You will be replacing this bolt with one provided in the package. Check the flat on the guard where the bolt attaches to the frame member for flatness and weld spatter. The flat must be straight and free of weld spatter for this modification to function properly. Binding or breakage of the pivot assembly will occur if the flat is not straight and clean. Clean and straighten as needed.
7: Clean the shift shaft with your abrasive material and wipe clean.
8: Make sure the cinch bolt for the pivot is loose and slide it onto the shaft with the round pivot point facing you. Push until pivot hits flat on engine guard. Tolerance for this pivot is tight so you may need to use a straight slot screwdriver as a wedge. Lightly push the screwdriver into the cutout slot on the pivot.
9: Attach the pivot block using the provided 40mm length 6mm Allen head bolt and stainless fender washer. Mate the pivot to the pivot block at this time. Tighten pivot block mounting bolt loosely.
10: Rotate the pivot and pivot block as far clockwise as it will go. Tighten pivot block retaining bolt. Moderate torque of about 15lbs will hold it squarely in place.
11: Pull the pivot towards you as far as it will go.
12: Install the foot lever and wiggle the mechanism until free play is felt. If using pivot slot wedge tool (straight slot screwdriver) then remove it now. There is a built in clearance between the pivot and the pivot block of .010. Tighten the 5mm hex head bolt lightly. No need to apply excessive torque to either fastener.
13: Test the operation by running the bike and shifting repeatedly. Use extreme caution here. Careful your tarp doesnít get caught in the wheel and the bike doesnít fall off the center stand.
14: Recheck all the clearances making sure the pivot does not interfere with the engine guard flat.
Make sure the foot lever returns on its own to the middle position. There should be some free play which will be felt by just jiggling the shifter. If not then readjust the pivot block and or pivot until some is felt.
15: The inside tunnel on the front exhaust shield where the shift shaft goes through must be trimmed. This operation is easy to do with an abrasive cut off wheel. Dremel tool works great here. Go slow as to keep the heat down. Paint damage on the exterior of the shield will occur if you go too fast. Water from a hand spray bottle sprayed on the abrasive wheel while cutting keeps temperature down while speeding up the cutting process. A good pair of tin snips will work. No need to remove the rubber where the shift shaft goes through. If a new rubber is needed the part number is 18322-MN5-000. The replacement rubber at the time of printing retails for US $28.89 plus shipping. Be careful not to cut the retaining tabs off when trimming tunnel. I donít stock rubbers so you will need to order one from a Honda dealer. Trim the tunnel flat with the back of the shield. It will be fine. Bend the tunnel excess metal down flat (if any) to attain maximum clearance. You can always remove the shield by removing the 12mm locking nut for the cable and taking it to an automotive repair shop for trimming. Every automotive repair facility should have the cutoff tool.
16: Reassemble and check for free play. Always check your work for accuracy.
17: Congratulations, you are done. When you have a minute please email me with the time to install and your overall satisfaction of the product.



Pivot assembly is warranted against failure for as long as you own your bike.
Patent Pending
All rights reserved

PM me if interested.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20131114_203452_250[1].jpg (61.8 KB, 417 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20131117_142256_104[1].jpg (250.5 KB, 464 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20131114_155421_655[1].jpg (228.3 KB, 466 views)

Last edited by Peppi-Le-Pew; 02-23-2014 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Added Installation Video
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