Need something to fill a rusty pipe - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:35 PM
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The only way to do a real repair is to weld in a temporary brace, cut out the old one and make a new one. Block filler (just "special" concrete) will work short term, but you'll be right back where you started in very short order. Concrete has no tensile strength. Additionally, the rust can cause rust jacking and blow out the rest of the tube or fracture the concrete.

If a temporary brace and fabricating a new crossmember isn't possible, welding on angle steel across the length of the member is the next best option. It will still rust out, but will last longer than the concrete.

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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 03:01 AM
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In my experience steel rusts faster when in contact with cement.

I believe this is do to the way concrete draws moisture to itself.

If it were mine and for whatever reason welding was out of the question. I'd oil the inside of the pipe and drive it until it breaks then worry about fixing it.

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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bamaTrider View Post
Is this frame tube round or rectangular? A photo of what you’re dealing with would be of great help. My kids and their friends nick-named me Mr. McGiver. Who know?
It is a round pipe. If you can out McGuyver me you are quite the wizard. I don't think I could get a photo with the proper perspective.

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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TonimusMaximus View Post
The only way to do a real repair is to weld in a temporary brace, cut out the old one and make a new one. Block filler (just "special" concrete) will work short term, but you'll be right back where you started in very short order. Concrete has no tensile strength. Additionally, the rust can cause rust jacking and blow out the rest of the tube or fracture the concrete.

If a temporary brace and fabricating a new crossmember isn't possible, welding on angle steel across the length of the member is the next best option. It will still rust out, but will last longer than the concrete.
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Originally Posted by JeffMayfield View Post
In my experience steel rusts faster when in contact with cement.

I believe this is do to the way concrete draws moisture to itself.

If it were mine and for whatever reason welding was out of the question. I'd oil the inside of the pipe and drive it until it breaks then worry about fixing it.
Thanks for the input.

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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 08:30 AM
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What exactly is that block filler supposed to do? In the video, they almost made it sound like it goes into the water jacket. That can't possibly be true.

yes it goes into the water jacket. only a quarter to half of the jacket gets filled. strictly a very high HP Drag racing mod. keeps the block from flexing and strengthens it from cracking.
I have never used it, just know about it.
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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 11:55 AM
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Okay, I've got what it is now. Dave, if you're going to use it, is there any way to get some rebar in there for reinforcement?

Can you channel your inner da Vinci and draw us a likeness of the cross member?

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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 12:22 PM
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In the first reply John mentioned JB Weld which gets me thinking fibreglass, it's strong and it is a little bit flexible.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
Okay, I've got what it is now. Dave, if you're going to use it, is there any way to get some rebar in there for reinforcement?

Can you channel your inner da Vinci and draw us a likeness of the cross member?
I got no DaVinci in me. Don't know why it matters what shape it is. I got some liquid acrylic to mix with the filler that is supposed to make it more flexible and adhere better.

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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 06:55 PM
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In the first reply John mentioned JB Weld which gets me thinking fibreglass, it's strong and it is a little bit flexible.
Or go the other end of the spectrum with fiberglass reinforced epoxy. That'd flow well enough. Wouldn't weigh a ton, either. Hmm... That'd probably mostly work.

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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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I filled it with the block filler mixed with the acrylic and also was able to weld in some bracing. I think it will stay in place. Got the engine rebuilt and other repairs and put it to use.
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