Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums - View Single Post - Dealer Claims Full Synthetic in Goldwing is Bad?

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post #40 of (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 06:31 PM
cycleman
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lethbridge Alberta
Model: 1999 GL1500 SE 50th Annv.
Posts: 695
Folks interested in Oil topics should go to the Bob the Oil Guy website. Everything you'd want to know about oil and then some.

There is a difference in dino and synthetic motor cycle oil and it is primarily in the way they are formulated. For the purposes of our discussion Dino oil starts out as a base stock of 10 or 20 weight ( first number ) and then has additives added to it to make it work like a 40 or 50 weight oil when hot, ( second number ). Synthetic is the opposite, starts out as a 40 or 50 weight oil and then has additives added to make it act like a 10 or 20 weight when cold,

As the dino oil's additive package is used up it tends to thin, moves more towards the lower number and as the synthetic additive package is used up it tends to thicken, moves more to the higher number.

There has been lots of good work done over the years with respect to motorcycle oils, but it still boils down to use what the manufacturer specs and change it regularly. There are some advantages to using synthetic over dino, mainly in the two extremes - very cold and very hot. So when you first start your engine you'll get better lubrication and it won't burn off as much at higher temps.

So as a lot of things with bikes, use what makes you happy, the bike really doesn't care that much, just change the oil & filter regularly.

1983 GL1100, 2013 Suzuki Vstrom DL650
Previous bikes - 1971 BMW R75, 2008 HD Softail, 2000 BMW R1100R, 1980 XJ650, XT500, GS550, 77 GL1000 x2 and a few others
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