Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Check out that rack!

1K views 17 replies 15 participants last post by  lionelgo50 
#1 ·
Sorry not what you guys were hoping for!:laugh: Put this on last night after work. Took about 1 1/2 hours from tools out to tools away. Most of that was triple measuring before drilling! Went well and I'm happy with it.
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#5 ·
The kit came with big rubber washers under the risers on top and small metal washer then small rubber under the lid. Thanks for the tip about weight, I'm mostly planning on using it just to set helmets or jackets on while getting ready.




Looks good but don't put to much weight on it, you can crack the lid. I see you have the legs under the rack, you might want to put the washers on it also.
http://wingstuff.com/products/32966-stainless-steel-luggage-rack-washers-w-rubbers?from_search=1
 
#8 ·
Looks great. Congrats. I carried my yellow, rainproof bag for a few thousand miles with abut 10-12 lb of stuff inside and no problem thus far. I purchased the wingstuff washer but never installed them. I think I will do it in the next few days so Ill have them for "the long trip"
Congrats again great color match
 
#9 ·
One of the real problems,IMHO, is the space between the inner and outer lid panels!
I believe one should install washers in between the panels. Pretty hard to do with just one person!
Ended up tapping them in place, while a friend held the rack in place, then reinstalled the inner panel. Star washers under the rack and big washers under the inner lid.
Did this for a friend. No problems yet!
 
#10 ·
Instead of the Wingstuff washers go to your local Ace hardware and get them. When I put my rack on Ace had a little bit larger chrome washers along with the rubber washers reasonably priced. In between the trunk and interior lid I stacked rubber washers glued together that the bolts went through for extra support.
 
#11 ·
I'm kinda doing the same thing; working on the trunk.
Putting a false floor in to securely hold some equipment and to hide the wiring and piping and such.
All mounts to the luggage rack.
...ongoing.
Once I'm done with the fab portion, I'll isolate the box from the rack with rubber isolation standoff's.

Of my top box, being a frame-less opening box like it is, its strength comes comes from being closed and locked into that position.

Of the false floor, it is incredibly easy with these style boxes to put a false floor with a hinged door in that can be secured with a simple cabinet lock.

To the left of the amplifier will be a nitrous bottle.
I'll template using pegboard for the actual floor and see what it all looks like at that point.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: gulfrider
#12 ·
It appears you used the risers which is good in the event you want to add a spoiler. The hole dimensions go a little askew if you try to add risers as an after thought. Though those racks are hard to attach anything to with bungies or a cargo net. Kuryakin has a bag built for that rack which is pretty sweet.
 
#13 ·
Didn't Rudy use to make these custom glue in reinforcement kits?

Found em: http://rudysproducts.com/

In fact, you can still buy Rudy's products at Cyclemax...

T
 
#14 ·
I have a question about what to do about the left over holes if you want to switch to a spoiler and not use the rack. The rack that I have is identical to the one shown at the beginning of this thread.
It's seriously pitted and I can't say that I have ever used it, so the thought to go with a spoiler is what is on my mind now.


Any helpful hints would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sean G.
 
#15 ·
Rubber grommet hole plugs is the easiest way to go........or body putty, sanding and a paint job.

or keep the rack and just add on the spoiler, though you may need to add on risers to get the clearance to add the spoiler. If the chrome is that badly pitted, take it off and have it re-chromed.
 
#18 ·
Nice Rack
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top