Motorcycle lifts/jacks - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings, I am new to this forum, and I am getting started with a question. Is there a motorcycle lift or jack under US $200 that you would recommend for a GL1500? As I write this, Sears.com has two Craftsman motorcycle lifts on sale. One is about US $70 and the “professional” version is about US $160. My local Sam’s store has a Goodyear Racing motorcycle lift for about US $70. All of them claim to be able to lift up to 1,500 pounds, but I a not sure if they are reliable for a Goldwing (Aspencade 1994). Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts and experience.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 07:34 PM
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Rogerider wrote:
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Greetings, I am new to this forum, and I am getting started with a question. Is there a motorcycle lift or jack under US $200 that you would recommend for a GL1500? As I write this, Sears.com has two Craftsman motorcycle lifts on sale. One is about US $70 and the “professional” version is about US $160. My local Sam’s store has a Goodyear Racing motorcycle lift for about US $70. All of them claim to be able to lift up to 1,500 pounds, but I a not sure if they are reliable for a Goldwing (Aspencade 1994). Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts and experience.
Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet Rodgerider!


This is the Jack I'm using now on my 1993 Aspy. It fits it fine and the bike sits quite solidly on it. I think it was around $60-75 but can't remember. It's a Chinese made unit like most. There are a lot of these around with different brand names. I also had a Harbor Freight jack, it was a little bit smaller in the lifting pads, the two black bars on top and it let the bike down a little fast, but it worked well and I felt safe using it. When I do work that might take some serious pulling and pushing on the bike I slip a block under the rear or front wheel, opposite the end I'm working on just so the bike doesn't get rocking, but most of the time the jack alone does just fine.


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 08:22 PM
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Welcome to the forum Roger, RedWing will be along anytime now with the official welcome cart. On the cycle jack, I agree with Exavid, I am using the same style as in his picture, I got it from Sam's club and have been very happy with it. I just, this week,changed a rear tire with all the obligatory maintenance that goes along with that and rebuilt my shocks with the bike up on the jack for about three days. I was careful to get the lift points right so when I removed so much weight from the back the bike would remain stable. Please understand that this type of jack will lift a GoldWing by the exhaust headers unless you build special blocks to pick it up elsewhere. This is not a bid deal, most of us do not have the blocks.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 09:42 PM
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Like exavid, I use one that I bought at Sam's Club, but mine came with some adjustable pieces that allow it to clear the headers. Works real good. Have also used it to lower a 4k Onan generator out of my old motorhome, and one of my frieds used it as a transmission jack, so it has many uses.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 09:42 PM
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I've used the same type of lift that Exavid shows for several years now and never had a problem. Just use ratcheting nylon straps to secure the bike to the jack otherwise it could slip off if you were shaking the bike while working on it. Don't run the bike with the nylon straps touching the pipes because they will melt and break.

Lifting by the frame is the best method but a lot of guys just lift from the headers which is OK when they are in good condition, but, once the headers get a little rusty you could conceivably cause some leaks in you exhaust system. So be careful.

As a safety measure, look over the jack occasionally to see if all the pins and clips and nuts and bolts are all where they are supposed to be.I've seen some come apart due to neglect.You sure don't want a Gold Wing jumping on you while you're working on it. Don't forget to lube the jack's moving parts also.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2005, 11:19 PM
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I just slide the jack in with the rider peg just a bit to the left of center between the lift bars. I don't pad anything, the pads lift on the centerstand and the headers. If the headers are corroded so much the jack damages them I'd say they need replacement anyway. So far with many trips up on the jack neither the 1200 I had or the 1500 I have show any damage whatsoever. I prefer to lift on the headers because it gives the widest possible bearing for stability.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-03-2005, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your solid advice. I went ahead and bought one of the twoCraftsman lifts that were onsale. Paid $69.99 plus taxes, and it really loks very good. I will start using soon, and will report back to the discussion. It is great to have this wonderful resource. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

R
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-03-2005, 03:14 PM
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As a further note on safety clean the floor area around and under the bike whenever you use the jack since the weight and small castors will easily get stuck when trying to climb over debris. I use a similar jack on a GL1100 and have made wooden blocks that go under and in the arch of the all night stand and I do not touch the exhaust pipes, another block is slipped in and uses the frame. Thus with 2 blocks of 2 x 6, I raise the unit without touching the exhaust but use the mid section of the motor and the frame. Be cautious with the down stroke, since it can be fast, to slow it down I use a vice grip clamped on the foot lever and the added length allows me to throttle the down stroke in a slower manner.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2005, 07:15 PM
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If you are handy with wood, and a drill... ... Then you should try this : * ** *I made two hardwood* (beech ,I think ) bearing blocks* for my jack , about* 3/4" by 1.5 " by 7 inches long... The* 4 bolts to fasten them to the actual original lifting surface are inset* below the surface of the hardwood, [img]/forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif[/img], and the length ,and thickness is determined to be just long enuf... or I guess short enuf[img]/forums/images/emoticons/tongue.gif[/img] to fit the jack surface head between the* two header downtubes.. This gives the* widest bearing surface without lifting on the downtubes... the rear plate is bearing on the center stand, and is just to bring both plates level...... Be sure to strap the bike down when its up on the jack... or in my case.. I strap it UP to the ceiling beams of my garage with 6 trailer tiedown straps*[img]/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif[/img]*SilverDave*[img]/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif[/img]

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-04-2005, 09:31 PM
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Rogerider,

I have the cheaper of the Sears Craftsman jacks and like it very well. I started off with the one that you can get through Harbor Freight but I used it once and took it back. When you hit the pedal to let the bike down, the H.F. jack seems to let the bike down a little hard. The Sears Craftsman jack does not do this.

Also, the Craftsman comes with 2 ratcheting tie downs that you can use to secure your bike to the jack. My 84 Aspencade sits very nicely on the jack and is very solid. I have had the bike up on the jack and moved the bike all around the shop while it was up in the air. Very well built jack and I recommend it.

Chris & April Sanders
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