bike won't start..even with new battery - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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I wrote about this problem several months ago and got some great and useful advice. I had some serious health issues and never got a chance to go any further with the problem though.
However...I'm back. I have determined that the problem is probably the starter; the engine won't crank when I jump from battery directly to the starter. It tries, but won't turn.
I'm assuming this a starter problem and the manual says the motor has to come out of the frame for this repair. I find that rather daunting and would like to know if this true?
Thanks Russ
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 04:01 PM
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No it's not true. The starter can be removed by taking the exhaust headers loose so you can drop them down, then remove thecable and thetwo starter mountingbolts and slide it towards the front and then out. You might have to pull the shift lever too, do remember for sure.

I think you may have read that you have to remove the engine to replace the "stator", which is the alternator and that is true, but not true for the starter.

John


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thank God!!
I am ok with trying that, but I'm NOT pulling the motor!!
My mechanical abilities are the stuff of legend.....and it's not good!
I have the Honda Goldwing service manual, and it says "To service the starter motor and the starter clutch, the engine must be removed from the frame"!
Are there any other caveats I must be aware of?
Thanks for the reply!
Russ
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 05:14 PM
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To service the starter clutch you do have to remove the engine, but that's probably not the problem based on your description of the problem. The starter clutch is under the rear engine cover.

Caveats, hmmm. Well, don't over tighten the exhaust header nuts and break a stud and you might consider replacing the header crush gaskets to keep from getting an exhaust leak after reassembly. Lube the o-ring on the starter when you install the new one. It goes in pretty hard and the lube will help. Don't over tighten the nut holding the starter cable on either.

Have you tried push starting your bike? Just curious if it starts easy that way.

John


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 05:18 PM
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Caveat:

Replace the starter with the bike on the side stand, NOT the center stand.

Otherwise the gear that the starter spline goes into will swing inside the case (it's inside of a loop of chain), and you won't be able to re-engage the starter.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 05:35 PM
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MDKramer wrote:
Quote:
Caveat:

Replace the starter with the bike on the side stand, NOT the center stand.

Otherwise the gear that the starter spline goes into will swing inside the case (it's inside of a loop of chain), and you won't be able to re-engage the starter.
I remember reading something about that but not sure it applies to the 1200's, at least not all of them. If I remember right from my '86 stator job there is a plastic/nylon track that chain runs in and it can't fall out of the way. Don't remember seeing that on the '84's I've done stators on but can't say I paid that much attention to it either.

John


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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I'm too old and fat to push very far, but yes it has started that way!
Thanks for the "caveats"!!
Russ
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike....I would have done it on center stand!
Figured that would give me more working room!
Russ
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 07:08 PM
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the 1100 and 1000 had an issue with losing the gear inside the rear cover, the 1200 cannot loose that gear since there is a nylon gear/chain guide inside the rear cover to prevent it from slipping out of place.
Just remove the battery neg. cable, then remove the starter cable from the starter and the left header pipes, then remove the one header stud, and finally remove the starter.
No worries with a 1200 other than the one stud removed from the motor to allow the starter to come out.
On the 1000 and 1100's you had to keep the bike leaned over hard to the left the entire time or you would loose that gear inside the cover necessitating removal of the motor again.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 07:17 PM
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The center stand advice and that gear/chain is correct for the starter.

I bought a kit on ebay, then took the starter and kit to a local auto electric. He installed the parts and bench tested for $40.

Mine is an 84, which has a unique starter. 85-87 are interchangeable.


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