I tink im getting old !! - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 07:25 AM
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Also the grain of the plywood is running the wrong way. For better strength you want the grain to run from end to end, not across.

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 10:02 AM
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a good trick is to put some old rubber car mats on the ramp for grip, there cheap at the salvage yard, free in some cases. also roof shingles or a snowmobile track works too.



just a thought for making it safer.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 01:49 PM
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you could maybe try wearing platform shoes? lol
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Bagmaster wrote:
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Also the grain of the plywood is running the wrong way. For better strength you want the grain to run from end to end, not across.
This i didnt have a clue about , im no carpenter for sure .



Plywood dont seem at all slick on the ramp of trailer . The issue is backing off the ramp , your rear tire hits the ground and then while the front tire is coming down there is a few feet you can not touch . Im even doubting a wider ramp will cure it the more i think about it . You still have the same effect for about 4 or 5 feet going backwards . Drving on you have a little momentum and its easy to keep the bike up right .
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 02:30 PM
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The trailer I used to haul my wing home had a ramp in the middle for the bike (tires) and two ramps on the sides for your feet.. the feet ramps were just 2x6 or 2x8's with a bolt on the end of it that hooked into a hole in the trailer bed. it worked well. you could do what that guy did for his foot ramps.. he just had another hole in the bed of the trailer that the same bolts that hooked into the back of the trailer went into and then used bungee straps to hold the ramps down to the trailer bed along side of the bike for transporting.

the trick is to make your foot boards a different length then the bike ramp.. longer if I remember right.. that gives the foot ramp boards enough height to overcome the angle transition of the bike going onto the trailer. I hope all this makes sense
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 04:07 PM
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Side ramps could be just a couple of 2x4 or 2x6's, you could tuck them under the trailer through a pair of U bolts, or you could use them as side rails on the trailer itself with a couple of through bolts to hold them on.
One word of advice though, make them longer than your center ramp, then when the front wheel is part way down the ramp, and the back wheel is 1-2 feet off of the ramp, your feet will still be able to reach the side ramps.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 05:19 PM
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Bagmaster wrote:
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Also the grain of the plywood is running the wrong way. For better strength you want the grain to run from end to end, not across.
Plywood layers are on alternating patterns, aren't they?

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 07:17 PM
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Geezerglider wrote:
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Bagmaster wrote:
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Also the grain of the plywood is running the wrong way. For better strength you want the grain to run from end to end, not across.
Plywood layers are on alternating patterns, aren't they?

Correct, alternating patterns.

Wood is stronger parallel to the grain than perpendicular to the grain. This is especially true in tension, where wood has little strength across the grain;it is also true in compression but to a lesser extent. Wood is much stiffer parallel to the grain than perpendicular to the grain. The modulus of elasticity across the grain is approximately 1/35 of the modulus of elasticity parallel to the grain. because of the differences in strength and stiffness, the plies that have the grain parallel to the stress are much more effective than those that have the grain perpendicular to the stress. The orientation of the panel and its directional properties are immportant to the proper use of the plywood.

Also, remember that not all plywood is created equal. The grade of the veneers is one of the factors that determine the grade of the panel. Plywood is often comprised of the best grade being the face then back, with the crossband (inner layers) being of a lesser grade.

The plywood will have a grade trademark and sheathing grade. I attached an old .pdf that is easy to use for determining the proper plywood for the job. It is not current standards but applicable herefor the most part.


In any event the picture appears to be 5ply with adequate width and should be okay provided it isn't wet (not that it will reduce the effectiveness of most modern glues), the approach when loading is SLOW to reduce forces. I would however turn the plywood the other direction and use it in the 8ft dimension rather than the 4ft dimension. You could also add support with mild steel along the perimeter.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf Q225 01 panel load tables.pdf (420.9 KB, 1 views)

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 07:55 PM
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Geezerglider wrote:
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Bagmaster wrote:
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Also the grain of the plywood is running the wrong way. For better strength you want the grain to run from end to end, not across.
Plywood layers are on alternating patterns, aren't they?
It's the direction of the outer layers of wood that make the difference. Like a truss the outer layers take the greatest amount of compression and tension and have more effect on the strength of the sheet than the inner plies whichever way they are oriented.



Hey, Dragon wagon, just drop a2x6 on each side of the ramp for a place to put your feet. They really don't even need to be attached to the trailer. A slight dip or a couple of holes for the wheels really help as you mentioned. I used a small ditch to back my pickup into when loading a 'Wing into it. Your trailer wouldn't need much since it's so low to start with.

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 11:56 AM
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that looks good on the back of the trailer, i agree with what someone says, make the ramp the width of the trailer and a bit longer, with a little bit of practice, you'll back that bike off without thinking of it

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