rear suspension - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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rear suspension

how do u check to see if rear shock r rear spring is good r bad
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 03:05 PM
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If you have more than 50K on the bike, replace the spring and the shock.
Make sure the preload pump is full.
Then set it on 25 and leave it there!
Also, if you more than 50K, time to service the forks!
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2014, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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thank u. not 2 sound stupid but how do u check the fluid and what kind do u put in
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 09:46 AM
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f you go to the Reference/FAQ section of the forum you will find a great thread on rebuilding GW air shocks, and the type of fluid to use.

Check this thread as well...

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...id-change.html
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgypsy View Post
f you go to the Reference/FAQ section of the forum you will find a great thread on rebuilding GW air shocks, and the type of fluid to use.

Check this thread as well...

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...id-change.html
He has an 1800 according to his profile. Totally different animal!

Stu
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 01:35 PM
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Welcome to the forum red cross
For the rear shock several options are available. The 2012-2014 rear shock is upgraded with a heavier spring and are becoming available from trike conversions or get an upgraded one from Racetech or Traxxion. Pulling yours apart is very complicated.
The front forks it's best to just get new bushings and seals while changing the fork oil as the forks have to come out to service the fork oil, no drain plug like the earlier wings. You'll need the repair manual for this bike if you don't have it if you plan on doing the work on it yourself.

Stu
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John 14:6 Psalm 118:19-29
CMA Wings of Eagles-Escondido, Patriot Guard Ryder
+2008 Cabernet Red ABS/Airbag bought 6/2013 @16,000
+1983 ASPENCADE Barn find @36,000 to be sold
+1976 CB750K6 @25,000 was Dad's
Previous bikes
-1999 GL1500 ASPENCADE Red Sold barn find restored
-1999 GL1500 SE(@57k)(totaled by cagger @105,000) Feb 2013
-76 CB750K Red(new) sold @ 45k
-75 CB750K Blue(new) 9,000 mi Before cousin totaled it.
74 CB450 Burnt Orange(new) 9,000 miles sold
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 02:48 PM
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I have a 1200 but I'm sure they are all similar. When you take the spring out there is a tolerance length (measurement) in the service book. Free length service limit.

The LORD is my light and my salvation--so why should I be afraid? The LORD is my fortress, protecting me from danger, so why should I tremble?

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 02:56 PM
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First thing... and this is important...
reduce the preload setting to zero before doing anything else.

Then remove the right saddlebag... you don't have to remove the cable if you hang it with a bunji cord. It just has to be out of the way of the preload pump.

Then crack loose the banjo bolt that holds the hose to the pump. Don't remove it now... wait till later.

Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors that attach to the pump. You'll need to depress the locking stay on each one and then pull it apart.

Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the pump onto the frame. You'll have to wiggle it out from the frame. Note the angle the hose is facing in relation to the pump. You can make a mark with a felt pen or scribe a mark. Just as long as the hose goes back onto the pump at the same place it came off. If it's not at the proper location the pump won't fit back onto the frame.

With the banjo bolt facing up... remove the bolt and secure the hose so it's above the height of the rear shock so it doesn't leak any fluid. Be careful that you don't lose the crush washers between the banjo bolt and the hose. THIS IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE THOSE CRUSH WASHERS ARE DIFFICULT TO REPLACE.

Where the threaded hole is... where the banjo bolt went... use a small screwdriver to push the pump plunger down. Normally it'll depress at least 1/4"-3/8". Make sure that you hold it in the UP position so it doesn't leak.

Now.... pour a light weight oil (5wt fork oil works good) into the hole. There's nothing that really says what kind of oil to use but I've done dozens of these and the 5wt fork oil works fine.

Replace the hose and banjo bolt onto the pump. Make sure to line up the hose with the mark you made on the pump.

Assemble everything back together in reverse order.
Instructions hi-jacked from another board member!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red cross View Post
how do u check to see if rear shock r rear spring is good r bad
What makes you think they may be bad?

The LORD is my light and my salvation--so why should I be afraid? The LORD is my fortress, protecting me from danger, so why should I tremble?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014, 05:59 PM
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the right saddle bag doesn't have to be removed.. Just loosen it enough to move it back about 2 inches......pump will only take about 1 oz of oil..
It well make a big difference in the ride.. I set mine at 15, 2 up and loaded 19 and when I want to play 24.. From 0 to 24 it lift the rear almost a inch.. Gives you a little ground clearance.........

Back to riding after a 30 yr lay off.. Started with a 86 Magna 750 on to a 02 Shadow 1100,99 Magna 750,91 ST1100, finaly a 93 Wing.. and now an 06 1800 Loven Life...
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