Stainless steel brake lines - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Aloha Tom View Post
Power Guy what brake pads did you use? the EBC are much thinner than Honda pads- based on my observation of EBC in new thickness
vs the displacement of the caliper piston from the base..as if made for a much thicker pad

Anyone? who has 1500 OE rear pads?

Note: the 1500 being discussed in this thread; The Rear brake is connected to Left Front, not Right
Makes it easy to bleed the right front with the lever being right above where you are draining
Rear brake bleeder is accessed thru the left saddlebag portal, then left brake,,ck book for order
SS brake lines on my car made a huge difference in feel and action when hot- thats when they really shine! hot brake temps/heavy braking effort and no line flex under pressure = constant full pressure to the caliper for max braking available from the system in all conditions

Definitely bleed the systems fully per the owner/repair book, use DOT 4 fluid, helped my 94 that had a few years on the fluid
New to you bike- assume it needs all fluids and flushes,,maybe put some of that fresh Florida air in them...
I bought the pads at Roseville Honda. The are OEM. The pedal is at a horizontal position, just really need to get it pushed down (toe down ) to engage. When I replaced the pads I inspected and cleaned per the maint. Specs. Did not see anything out of the ordinary. The guy I bought it from kept a very detailed record of all work. I feel the brake lines are "soft".

Came home this weekend and took her out for a spin. Got home and got her ready for her trip to Florida. (Shipping not riding )

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aloha Tom
Note: the 1500 being discussed in this thread; The Rear brake is connected to Left Front, not Right
That's right .... I have been dealing with my 1200 and it's "bassackwards" in this reguard and I just slipped up. All fixed now.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 05:29 AM
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Simple test

Pump the brake pedal 2 or 3 strokes. If the pedal gets firmer and higher you can be pretty sure you have air trapped in the brakes someplace.

Doug

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 10:35 AM
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The possibility exist its really the left front pads are low- were they ckd?
Beyond that= its most likely in need of a fluid flush
Every year is suggested, with 2 years between flush MAX!
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 07:58 PM
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Sounds like old fluid.
If the previous owner changed it in the year (every 2 years) before you bought it then it might be something else. But my limited experience with the last 4 bikes I have worked on tells me that it virtually never gets changed. And doing so makes a world of difference

Check the inspection glass on the reservoir, if its black, opaque, dark, or cloudy it needs changed. Translucent amber is what it should be, kind of like vegetable oil.

DOT 4 is Hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air and overtime it degrades and gets cylinder gunk in the system which can change the compression upon actuation.
If the brakes get hot from use, the water inside the fluid can change phase further messing with your brakes.

Like Doug says, if you pump the brake and it gets better, might be air and you might as well flush the whole system or have it flushed.

Stainless steel lines won't hurt, but the present underlying problem is something else.


On the other bikes I would just siphon the fluid out of the reservoir (careful not to spill it etches paint) fill with fresh and just chase the old fluid down through the system. Half a bottle front and rear. Never worked on a Goldwing, don't know how easy it would be to reach both the caliper and the actuator.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 08:58 PM
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One additional hint on bleeding the left front brake; there is a banjo bolt on the forks which will hold air very well, even with a really good bleed job. Pump them up and crack that banjo bolt once before cleaning everything up.

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 07:09 PM
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IIRC from my 1500 manual, the rear pedal free play is in the area of 1/4 to 5/16" of an inch before the brake activates the pads... If it is any more than this, you have other issues and those issues should be solved first before proceeding to installation od SS lines... FWIW, I had installed SS lines on my 93 Aspy and they made a difference in brake pedal feel... I consider it to be a worth while modification...

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougW View Post
Simple test

Pump the brake pedal 2 or 3 strokes. If the pedal gets firmer and higher you can be pretty sure you have air trapped in the brakes someplace.

Great minds...I did that thinking that there may be air traped. But was the same. I think the line is just old. (it's a 97) Time for a replacement.

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spring1898 View Post
Sounds like old fluid.
If the previous owner changed it in the year (every 2 years) before you bought it then it might be something else. But my limited experience with the last 4 bikes I have worked on tells me that it virtually never gets changed. And doing so makes a world of difference

Check the inspection glass on the reservoir, if its black, opaque, dark, or cloudy it needs changed. Translucent amber is what it should be, kind of like vegetable oil.

DOT 4 is Hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air and overtime it degrades and gets cylinder gunk in the system which can change the compression upon actuation.
If the brakes get hot from use, the water inside the fluid can change phase further messing with your brakes.

Like Doug says, if you pump the brake and it gets better, might be air and you might as well flush the whole system or have it flushed.

Stainless steel lines won't hurt, but the present underlying problem is something else.


On the other bikes I would just siphon the fluid out of the reservoir (careful not to spill it etches paint) fill with fresh and just chase the old fluid down through the system. Half a bottle front and rear. Never worked on a Goldwing, don't know how easy it would be to reach both the caliper and the actuator.

you know what spring, You may be on to something here. I have not changed the fluid and when i inspected it a few weeks ago, it did look dark.

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadztoy View Post
IIRC from my 1500 manual, the rear pedal free play is in the area of 1/4 to 5/16" of an inch before the brake activates the pads... If it is any more than this, you have other issues and those issues should be solved first before proceeding to installation od SS lines... FWIW, I had installed SS lines on my 93 Aspy and they made a difference in brake pedal feel... I consider it to be a worth while modification...

Les
1/4 to 5/16....i am dropping about 3 inches .
just shipped the bike from CA to FL. When it gets here i will install the new lines and give it an overhaul.

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