Cargo Trailer - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost Rider 2 View Post
looks like the red wing is tied at rear on crash bars also. Side covers are still in place. I remember a couple years back there was a photo floating around of a wing tied down on rear bars that broke the frame. I know it is a pain in the butt to pull covers to tie down from frame. But frame and triple tree is the best way to tie one down.
Ghost didn't mention which side covers. My visualization was saddle bag covers (doors) and I'm thinking... ain't going to happen. Later, I did a google search and figured out what Ghost was talking about. Removing the rear side covers isn't much of a pain.

I took a closer look at the crash bars on the Goldwing. The front crash bars are connected at three points and while not as sturdy as Valkyrie engine guards, they appear sturdy enough to take a meaningful load. The back crash bars are only connected at two points, horizontal points at that. They are under-engineered and pitiful compared to the Valkyries saddle bag crash bars.

Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen. I wasn't completely comfortable with the way the bike was originally tied down.



I am guessing these are the friction straps that John was saying were inadequate. I use them with my utility trailer for hauling brush or a lawn tractor.


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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 02:41 PM
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yes, the strap you have there is what I call a General Utility strap, and likewise, I just use it for lightweight stuff of no importance.... the lawn tractor going to a different location, it is quick and easy to zip that strap down and be on your way for then next 10 minute drive.

Hauling a 1,000 lb Goldwing with one of those straps is asking for heartache, don't do it.

The picture you just last showed with the straps on the frame and crash bar, is abhorrent to my way of thinking, something is going to break if it is hauled very far, or very often in that manner.

The 3 strap method is totally safe, secure, and won't ever let you down.

Two over the lower Triple Tree, and one around the rear tire, snugged off to each side.

Always inspect your straps, if they don't look new, then get new ones rated above the load you need for our bikes.

I used to haul my Yamaha DT-250 3,000 miles every year from Texas back to Mardonna's home for Christmas... the front wheel rested in a wheel chock on the Receiver Hitch, the chain was taken off, and two straps rated at 1,000 lbs snugged the triple tree down to the bumper loops.

It never came loose....... backing the tow vehicle up though, is a no no...

~ John


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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 03:27 PM
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Below is a picture from Wing World Magazine. It's included in an article entitled "How to tie down a GL1800." Wing Worlding Magazine was passing on recommendations from GWRRA.

You can see that they are tying down the fork, frame behind the back side panel and the back crash bars.

As I said, the back crash bars are inadequate, but more so for a force pushing up on the bar, rather than pulling down, like a strap.

Per your suggestion, I have significantly less tension on the straps going to the crash bars. The fork and frame straps are doing the work.

I can't go with your strap around the back wheel idea. It just doesn't feel right to me. Straps on the frame and fork give dual support for keeping the bike upright in a corner.


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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 06:51 PM
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The straps on the triple tree are what keeps it up right, that and the wheel chock locking the front tire.

You don't want to tie the rear frame down. That prevents the rear suspension from absorbing the up/dn road shock.

The rear wheel strap is at right angles to the tire our slightly to the rear. Depends on the trailer

My bikes have never come loose with only 3 straps.

They are just as snug at the end of the trip as when I left home.

I check the straps at about 10-20 miles and every time we stop. If needed, a ratchet gets an extra click

My bike will sit in the front left corner of my Toy Hauler garage. Only 3 straps. It isn't going anywhere, guaranteed..

~ John


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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 11:04 PM
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I understand your technique. It's just different from mine and from the Wing World Magazine article I referred to above.

Regarding absorbing the shock, my cargo trailer takes out the worst of it. Beyond that, the motorcycle springs and shocks are only partially compressed.

I couldn't use your technique. It's too conceptually different from what I have always done. I'd be too nervous.

I did find a better attachment point for the rear backup straps. Now, I'm completely happy with the setup.

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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 07:46 AM
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Those pictures of the tie downs from wing world do not show the straps as being connected to the crash bars only, they are around the frame then looped over the crash bars so they don't slide.

If you pull down on the suspension, especially in the front I suggest you pull it down tight. If it is only slightly compressed then in a big bump the suspension can compress more from the weight of the bike then it will come back up and hit against the strap. This could cause a strap to snap.

The straps on the front hold the bike forward in the wheel chock and keep the bike upright.

The straps on the rear, especially when connected low like that, are only there to keep the rear of the bike from moving sideways and only need to be snug.

If you want extra assurance the bike will not come loose put double straps on the front pulling forward and down.

Doug

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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 11:36 AM
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Doug is right, what I did not elaborate on, is that I pull the front forks down until they stop.

Then I back them off about 1 to 1.5 inches. That ensures there will be no further compression.

----------

the comment:
Quote:
Regarding absorbing the shock, my cargo trailer takes out the worst of it.
Does NOT hold any water at all.

That trailer is going to rebound from a shock load horribly.
And when it does, it is going to throw that bike really hard.

Evidence of this:
a few weeks back, my daughter was in our 26' Toy Hauler while I took it for a test run of about 3 miles out and back.

The tires on it were several years old and had sat for six years at least.
Even though, they were aired up to 80 psi, they were so horribly out of round,
she told me that even though she was holding on to the center table, and the window frame, it was tossing her to the floor.

and that is just out of round tires!!!

Let that trailer do a rebound on a six inch deep hole you did not see and it does a rebound out of that hole, and that bike is going somewhere.....

I would much prefer that the suspension take care of that action.
It is your bike, and you are the one that has to be happy, but I will never, ever, tie the rear frame down.

Way too dangerous long term.

The tires on that Toy Hauler?
They were replaced with brand new, Premium level Goodyear 10 ply trailer tires.

Now it rides as smooth as can be. She did a 2nd test ride of about 8 miles to the next pull over, we had to know. Because the way it was, the furniture was going to come apart.

~ John


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