1984 Honda GW - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Florence, KY
Year: 1993
Make: Honda
Model: GL1500A
Posts: 261
This is just my 2 cents but if the bike looks neglected and is not running, it's not a good deal at any price. Ask for the maintenance records. If there are none it may be because regular maintenance was not done. If the oil wasn't changed regularly, that engine and tranny may have a lot more wear than a well maintained bike would at 70k miles. Without records, you don't know how old those timing belts are. Even though, belts will last way beyond 70k miles, their age is a factor on reliability. I wouldn't trust 35 year old belts on the open road, or just going down the street for that matter. So if you replace the belts and tensioners, all the fluids and new tires and add that to the price of the bike, you'll probably be above your budget and still won't know how reliable the engine and transmission are. Oh, and did I mention you'll have to remove and inspect the final drive? I'm not saying you HAVE to do all these things, but you said you want it road worthy. You can decide what that means to you.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:05 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Toledo ohio
Year: 84
Make: Aspencade
Model: GL 1200A
Posts: 38
Got oil in final drive????

YUP, its MADE TO BE WORKED ON... maybe u will be able to trust it to the store.... 6 blocks away.... or WM.... 6 Miles away. carry tow strap or have AAA PREMIUM. u will spend AT LEAST $1000+++ to get it to where ... u can work on it some more. I made that mistake with a bike with a non functioning odometer that I didn't notice. owner cleaned it up, looked ok, ran ok, but.... fork seals, rear shocks, new tires, brake pads, back caliper rebuild and since Mother Honda was nice enough to put the ignition pick ups on the BACK of the motor (take swing arm off to get to ignition picks ups when they expire... and cant get new ones) that is bad.


85 put ignition pick ups on the front of the motor, a little easier to get to... but... don't know if can get the ignition pick ups ... 88 GL....93 GL with roller rockers and cruise control taken off crankshaft for smoother cruise control. spend more on a DECENT BIKE with maint history and not something that has been through 10 owners and get bike and title and no history. timing belt change $12 belts (x2) but a fair amt of work to get to them... might as well put the poorboy kit on it while doing that, it is just a little more work since a person has it all apart already to do the belts that shd be changed every 5 yrs regardless of mileage. ask urself this, u want something to work on or something to ride. pretty simple. when a person spends more time working on something to ride it to the store... once in a while than actually riding/driving it... is it worth it??? if poor and have no other choice.... that is up to the individual. had I known more abt GL's when I got mine... I wud have spent more on a NICER bike WITH FUNCTIONING ODOMETER (odometer has an electric motor that drives it??? motor dies, odometer dies, I didn't know that).... say... .$1800 vs $1300.... for an $800 bike (being optimistic) that needed new tires $100/each, forks rebuilt $300, brake pads $30, caliper rebuilt on rear $30.


fortunately alternator worked/works. I tested it b4 I got it. with new battery 14.x volts at 2000RPM's so that was good, for how long? starter rebuilt by me (shop wanted $800 as PER THE BOOK have to take the L sub frame out to get starter out, NO!!! NICE PROFIT for shop for 2 hours worth of work, if they bothered to watch U tube video with guy taking starter out in 20 mins) take header off and finagle the starter out, clean out graphite dust that shunts power to ground and not thru starter, clean out nasty grease in planetary reduction and replace with a little grease, reassemble, finagle it back into the hole it came out of. an hour to get it out, an hour to clean it, and hour to put it back in. just cuz it is CHEAP does NOT make it a "good deal" .... $1000+ in a $800 machine to still have a ~$800 machine that might run to WM 6 miles away... or might not?


Addendum: got oil in final drive????? NO ONE EVER changed oil in final drive and then wonders why the final drive goes out... .locks up at speed? that would be BAD. My bike ...half the oil had gone somewhere (when someone changed the tire, took out rear end, oil leaked out and didn't bother to put more / fresh/clean oil in it???). shops are HURRY HURRY HURRY HURRY HURRY to get that OLD POS out of here, if they even let it in the shop to begin with as they KNOW it has PROBLEMS from PO's doing shoddy work. in my case, one of the 2 spacers on the rear axle was missing so had to wait on that for 5 days, tying up the shops lift while NEW HD were waiting to have their chrome polished. make sure it has TWO (2) SPACERS ON THE REAR AXLE, one on the OUTSIDE OF CALIPER BRACKET and ONE on the inside of the caliper bracket... that spacer goes into the wheel. both the same spacer, just mirror images of each other on either side of the rear disc brake mount.
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Last edited by MICK MACK; 04-14-2019 at 12:11 AM. Reason: got oil in final drive????
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:15 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Toledo ohio
Year: 84
Make: Aspencade
Model: GL 1200A
Posts: 38
OH when I replaced the 5 yr old tire that delaminated with minimal mileage on the tire, I found that the drive pins that drive the rear wheel had never seen grease so a nice coating of rust on them because ppl / shops are IN A HURRY to get it out of the shop and don't have time to take the few mins to put grease on the drive pins. fortunately they are hard chrome steel but it is not nice to take the drive flange out of rear wheel and see rust on something that shdve had grease/moly 77 paste, if purist, on the drive pins. a bike like that... I don't think I would trust out of the city limits/AAA tow range. speaking from experience.
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