Got oil in final drive????
YUP, its MADE TO BE WORKED ON... maybe u will be able to trust it to the store.... 6 blocks away.... or WM.... 6 Miles away. carry tow strap or have AAA PREMIUM. u will spend AT LEAST $1000+++ to get it to where ... u can work on it some more. I made that mistake with a bike with a non functioning odometer that I didn't notice. owner cleaned it up, looked ok, ran ok, but.... fork seals, rear shocks, new tires, brake pads, back caliper rebuild and since Mother Honda was nice enough to put the ignition pick ups on the BACK of the motor (take swing arm off to get to ignition picks ups when they expire... and cant get new ones) that is bad.
85 put ignition pick ups on the front of the motor, a little easier to get to... but... don't know if can get the ignition pick ups ... 88 GL....93 GL with roller rockers and cruise control taken off crankshaft for smoother cruise control. spend more on a DECENT BIKE with maint history and not something that has been through 10 owners and get bike and title and no history. timing belt change $12 belts (x2) but a fair amt of work to get to them... might as well put the poorboy kit on it while doing that, it is just a little more work since a person has it all apart already to do the belts that shd be changed every 5 yrs regardless of mileage. ask urself this, u want something to work on or something to ride. pretty simple. when a person spends more time working on something to ride it to the store... once in a while than actually riding/driving it... is it worth it??? if poor and have no other choice.... that is up to the individual. had I known more abt GL's when I got mine... I wud have spent more on a NICER bike WITH FUNCTIONING ODOMETER (odometer has an electric motor that drives it??? motor dies, odometer dies, I didn't know that).... say... .$1800 vs $1300.... for an $800 bike (being optimistic) that needed new tires $100/each, forks rebuilt $300, brake pads $30, caliper rebuilt on rear $30.
fortunately alternator worked/works. I tested it b4 I got it. with new battery 14.x volts at 2000RPM's so that was good, for how long? starter rebuilt by me (shop wanted $800 as PER THE BOOK have to take the L sub frame out to get starter out, NO!!! NICE PROFIT for shop for 2 hours worth of work, if they bothered to watch U tube video with guy taking starter out in 20 mins) take header off and finagle the starter out, clean out graphite dust that shunts power to ground and not thru starter, clean out nasty grease in planetary reduction and replace with a little grease, reassemble, finagle it back into the hole it came out of. an hour to get it out, an hour to clean it, and hour to put it back in. just cuz it is CHEAP does NOT make it a "good deal" .... $1000+ in a $800 machine to still have a ~$800 machine that might run to WM 6 miles away... or might not?
Addendum: got oil in final drive????? NO ONE EVER changed oil in final drive and then wonders why the final drive goes out... .locks up at speed? that would be BAD. My bike ...half the oil had gone somewhere (when someone changed the tire, took out rear end, oil leaked out and didn't bother to put more / fresh/clean oil in it???). shops are HURRY HURRY HURRY HURRY HURRY to get that OLD POS out of here, if they even let it in the shop to begin with as they KNOW it has PROBLEMS from PO's doing shoddy work. in my case, one of the 2 spacers on the rear axle was missing so had to wait on that for 5 days, tying up the shops lift while NEW HD were waiting to have their chrome polished. make sure it has TWO (2) SPACERS ON THE REAR AXLE, one on the OUTSIDE OF CALIPER BRACKET and ONE on the inside of the caliper bracket... that spacer goes into the wheel. both the same spacer, just mirror images of each other on either side of the rear disc brake mount.
Last edited by MICK MACK; 04-14-2019 at 12:11 AM.
Reason: got oil in final drive????