I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.
I will start doping the gas with TWC3 or MMO then, or a few drops of the 'new oil'... don't want the valve guides to stick on this thing.
My Suburban has been a tad expensive over the last 5 weeks....
Exhaust headers fell off, had them welded up, looked good. that was in Savanna, GA
then in Fulton, MS the exhaust header flange at the end of the headers, where the tail pipe bolts up to the headers.... that flange just slipped right off the header pipe.... did not look like it had ever been welded from OEM.
took an hour for the backwoods shop to fix that, but it don't leak or pop anymore.
we stayed at the state park in Fulton, MS for 3 days. nice place.
3 days before that, we were just entering Fulton, MS when I noticed the voltmeter drop, and a red "Battery Low" light come on...... Cyndi Googled auto shops and found the one we used, they called up the auto supply and had a new alternator on the bench by the time we idled into their shop....
55 minutes and we rolled out with a new alternator. Good folks in the backwoods.
then just east of Alma, AR the front tires were bouncing so bad, that I decided we had to them replaced..... a result of a huge hole in west I-240 at Memphis, TN.... busted belts in the left front tire.
so, 2 new tires, and Cyndi drove us home.... I was finished for the day.
went to sleep in the right seat.