OIL !!! but for my Briggs 'n Stratton 23 hp YTH23V48 - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:45 PM
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I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.

I will start doping the gas with TWC3 or MMO then, or a few drops of the 'new oil'... don't want the valve guides to stick on this thing.


My Suburban has been a tad expensive over the last 5 weeks....
Exhaust headers fell off, had them welded up, looked good. that was in Savanna, GA


then in Fulton, MS the exhaust header flange at the end of the headers, where the tail pipe bolts up to the headers.... that flange just slipped right off the header pipe.... did not look like it had ever been welded from OEM.
took an hour for the backwoods shop to fix that, but it don't leak or pop anymore.


we stayed at the state park in Fulton, MS for 3 days. nice place.


3 days before that, we were just entering Fulton, MS when I noticed the voltmeter drop, and a red "Battery Low" light come on...... Cyndi Googled auto shops and found the one we used, they called up the auto supply and had a new alternator on the bench by the time we idled into their shop....
55 minutes and we rolled out with a new alternator. Good folks in the backwoods.


then just east of Alma, AR the front tires were bouncing so bad, that I decided we had to them replaced..... a result of a huge hole in west I-240 at Memphis, TN.... busted belts in the left front tire.


so, 2 new tires, and Cyndi drove us home.... I was finished for the day.
went to sleep in the right seat.



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Last edited by AZgl1800; 04-15-2019 at 06:49 PM.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
I have had a lot of John Deere mowers and multi grade will go out the valve guides,and the more hours,the more oil will go out,that’s why they recommend straight grade oil in air cooled motors,Onan can use multi grade in the winter to allow them to turn over better when cold,but expect oil usage,mine uses John Deere Torque Guard Diesel oil 30 weight.
John,I’ve had valves stick in the Briggs motors and pull out the guide,what I do is run some used oil in the gas for lubercating the guides,half qt in tank,they aren’t fun to fix.
What engines are in those John Deere mowers? I have one with a Kawasaki engine.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:01 PM
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If that engine has a pressure oiling system with a filter, I would go with oil such as the torqueguard 30w. Dipper/ splash oil systems should use the non-detergent. Pressure/filter systems should be detergent oil.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:16 PM
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What engines are in those John Deere mowers? I have one with a Kawasaki engine.
Dave,most of the newer John Deere’s do have Kawasaki,I had Onans in the ones that I had but I had a Huskavarna that had Briggs in it,I bought it new but my JDs were all found parked in fields and yards and I restore them like new,hers on that 56 years old and has Koehler
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Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
I will start doping the gas with TWC3 or MMO then, or a few drops of the 'new oil'... don't want the valve guides to stick on this thing.


My Suburban has been a tad expensive over the last 5 weeks....
Exhaust headers fell off, had them welded up, looked good. that was in Savanna, GA


then in Fulton, MS the exhaust header flange at the end of the headers, where the tail pipe bolts up to the headers.... that flange just slipped right off the header pipe.... did not look like it had ever been welded from OEM.
took an hour for the backwoods shop to fix that, but it don't leak or pop anymore.


we stayed at the state park in Fulton, MS for 3 days. nice place.


3 days before that, we were just entering Fulton, MS when I noticed the voltmeter drop, and a red "Battery Low" light come on...... Cyndi Googled auto shops and found the one we used, they called up the auto supply and had a new alternator on the bench by the time we idled into their shop....
55 minutes and we rolled out with a new alternator. Good folks in the backwoods.


then just east of Alma, AR the front tires were bouncing so bad, that I decided we had to them replaced..... a result of a huge hole in west I-240 at Memphis, TN.... busted belts in the left front tire.


so, 2 new tires, and Cyndi drove us home.... I was finished for the day.
went to sleep in the right seat.
Google “Briggs Stratton stuck valves” for some reason the do and it usually the v twin.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
Google “Briggs Stratton stuck valves” for some reason the do and it usually the v twin.

just verified that, so I will take pains to be sure it does not do that.
I only use Pure Gas 87, never use ethanol.


https://www.doityourself.com/forum/o...in-engine.html


just looked at the hour meter, 516 hours. thought it was 550


We used it 6 weeks ago, it has sat since then.....
it fired right up tonight and Cyndi mowed 2 acres with it.



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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
Dave,most of the newer John Deere’s do have Kawasaki,I had Onans in the ones that I had but I had a Huskavarna that had Briggs in it,I bought it new but my JDs were all found parked in fields and yards and I restore them like new,hers on that 56 years old and has Koehler
That's a nice one. Mine is a 1987 model so I guess that means it "newer".

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:28 PM
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That's a nice one. Mine is a 1987 model so I guess that means it "newer".
Lol Dave ,mines a 65,I have it for sale,I only use battery powered stuff now,yard is small and my shoulder hurts so I can crank them,my dewalt battery mower will mow most of my yard on one battery,it’s 40 volt

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
the label on the engine says 30w SAE non-detergent
this is the typical aircooled engine, it is a V-twin Vertical Shaft, horizontal cylinders in my Husqvarna 48" deck lawn tractor.
It has 550 hours on it now, and is using about 1/2 quart per 5 or 6 hours of use.... it runs at a continuous 3,600 RPM ( because of the grass blades ) … etc ...
and the lowly tractor is on SAE 30w non-detergent.

now tell me why, it should be non-detergent?
why not use a multi-weight in it too?


the manual has this note:


LUBRICATION •

ENGINE
Only use high quality detergent oil rated with API service
classification SG-SL. Select the oil’s SAE viscosity grade
according to your expected operating temperature.


NOTE: Although multi-viscosity oils (5W30, 10W30 etc.)
improve starting in cold weather, they will result in increased
oil consumption when used above 32°F/0°C. Check your
engine oil level more frequently


=============


so, stick with the SAE 30 non-detergent?

I use quality detergent oils in my B&S engines, often straight 30 wgt but 10w30 is OK in my one Vanguard V twin as it has pressure lube and filter. 30wgt OK in splash system.


Not so sure about switching over from Non-Det to Det at 550 hours though, and if I did … I'd do next few oil & filter changes more frequently.


I also check oil levels before each start.


My gen has a OHV 13 HP B&S, but my 1981 Wheelhorse is on B&S V Twin #2 … it came with single cyl Kohler but that was underpowered and tired, so I swapped to Vanguard and then accumulated grass in cooling fins led to overheated rear head …. so I replaced again with another new one. I also upgraded deck 20 years ago, from 36 to 48".
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