OIL !!! but for my Briggs 'n Stratton 23 hp YTH23V48 - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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I am careful to always clean the dust and grass from the engine top carefully.
and I always check Oil Level for every mowing session.


this engine has a horizontal oil filter on it.... I have replaced the drain valve with a 3 inch extension nipple and a 1/4 turn ball valve. the OEM valve was a recipe for burned hands, so I got rid of it fast. It was also too short and oil dribbled all over the block and frame. no more, I just put the mower on a slanted berm, and open the valve and it clears the frame and into the drain pan.


the old oil is used to start fires out on the south side, old cardboard boxes, fallen tree limbs, etc.

~ John


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post #22 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
I have been using 10W-30 in my lawn tractors for many, many years with no ill effects. My push mowers......................... Well considering most of them came out of trash piles or I paid five or ten bucks for each I put in them whatever I have laying around. Usually 15W-40 since I have so many diesels. I have been known to use used oil in them. I have also been known to not change the oil in them for years and I have never had one blow up or seize. They usually succumb to a blade to stump impact that bends the crankshaft. And yes I do still run them after that as long as they don't vibrate so bad that my hands go numb. I have been known to grind off part of the blade to get a little balance back in the bent crank to eliminate the vibration. Am I cheap? Damn right I am!!
I have had good luck in "straigtening" the crankshaft on many off those small movers .
I just lay the mover on the side , rotate the blade (remember to remove the cable from the sparkplug) to deside where to hit the blade holder with a BIG hammer , rotate for control and maybe hit it again .
Yes i am cheap
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post #23 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:01 AM
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Oh yea, I ALWAYS try that before scrapping the mower. I usually get a couple straightenings out of it before it gets so bad it is hitting the case. I had a Jacobson self propelled push mower that had a bent crank and I used it for years. One summer I decided to check the oil, I never changed it, just added sometimes. There was nothing in it! The thing was dry in the hole!!! I have no idea how long it was running without oil but it had to be a couple months since there was no evidence of oil at all. I putt a full load of whatever I had laying around in it and it ran great for another year before finally puking out the lower seal and it would not hold oil at all. I thought about just running it until it seized but somehow I felt sorry for it and figured it deserved to die a proper death. It finally went to the scrapyard. Sometimes I think, at least with the small engine, that the worse you treat them the longer they last!
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post #24 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:00 PM
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If you have a filter, you should be using detergent oil. The detergents keep the dirt in suspension so it can be filtered out. No filter, use non-detergent, the crud will settle to the bottom of the sump, to be drained when changed. You just have to change it more often. Older engines relied on lead in the fuel to lubricate valve guides. A little oil in the gas will help the intakes, but does nothing for the exhaust. (The one that needs it the most). If the engine is worn, there will be plenty of oil getting into the guides, no no worries. It is only a tight engine where this could be an issue. New engines have changed guide materials and clearances for unleaded fuels. Someday new small engines will be made to handle ethanol, but that hasn't happened, yet. It's not hard to get 3000+ hours out of a current small engine with a modicum of maintenance. We have some that are still going strong at 5000+ hours. That they run virtually everyday is a big factor, too. Sitting around is not ideal.
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post #25 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RambozoClown View Post
If you have a filter, you should be using detergent oil. The detergents keep the dirt in suspension so it can be filtered out. No filter, use non-detergent, the crud will settle to the bottom of the sump, to be drained when changed. You just have to change it more often. Older engines relied on lead in the fuel to lubricate valve guides. A little oil in the gas will help the intakes, but does nothing for the exhaust. (The one that needs it the most). If the engine is worn, there will be plenty of oil getting into the guides, no no worries. It is only a tight engine where this could be an issue. New engines have changed guide materials and clearances for unleaded fuels. Someday new small engines will be made to handle ethanol, but that hasn't happened, yet. It's not hard to get 3000+ hours out of a current small engine with a modicum of maintenance. We have some that are still going strong at 5000+ hours. That they run virtually everyday is a big factor, too. Sitting around is not ideal.
Actually the lead in gas was for the valve seats, not the guides. Hardened seats took care of that problem.

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post #26 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:27 PM
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Yes, the lead did lubricate between the exhaust valve and seat preventing seat erosion, but it was also the primary lubrication between the exhaust valve and guide. A layer of lead oxide would plate most of the hot portion of the exhaust valve. This worked fine with cast iron guides, but without leaded fuel the guides would wear quickly. Bronze as well as other guide materials was the primary fix for that. Most guides today are a stintered powdered metal product with a blend of materials.
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post #27 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:32 PM
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I just rebuilt a Craftsman Chipper/shredder with a 5 HP B&S Industrial Motor. It’s states specifically in the owner’s manual to use 30w oil. It also states that using blended oil is acceptable, but will cause oil loss.

I researched this further and I found out that the blended oils, 10w30 or 40 or whatever, add polymers to bond the varied oil weights and the polymers can break down.

Bottom line, a single weight oil, chosen for conditions, is always better. We lazy Americans want a single oil, and want to forget about it for too long a time. I’m reading here that some of you even want to carry just one oil for all of your vehicles!

I used Rotella 15-40 diesel oil in my ‘84 GL for years, when I lived in Austin and commuted with it during summer months. I also own an ‘03 Dodge Ram Cummins and have used that oil for 15 years. Now I live where that oil would be too thick most of the year, and I ride 12 months a year.

I never bought into the Mobil-1 perfect oil, marketing campaign. However, now I have 4 great street bikes, and I work hard to keep these running well without assistance of dealerships.

So, synthetic oil does have an advantage, when you want to just let it sit in an engine for 6 months at a time.

The last 2-3 years I have put AMSOIL 10-W40 in my GL1200. I changed my oil last time in Aug 2018. I only put about 1k miles on my GL since. I checked the oil today and it’s clean, like when I poured it in 8 months ago. The dipstick looks and smells like the oil was just changed!

I think these “improved” oils are viable for these kind of uses. When I drive a car or truck hard, lots of miles, 8-10K between changes, 2-3 times a year, I use an old-fashioned petroleum based oil and change oil often.

Keep in mind, when you own a GL1200 or other motor built 30+ years ago, there were no synthetics and they ran fine as engineered.

Thanks, JD
1984 Goldwing Standard

Last edited by JohnnyD; 04-19-2019 at 12:34 AM.
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post #28 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
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I double checked the old oil jugs in the shop, and sure enough, they are all Non-Detergent 30w.


and the Manual says to use Detergent 30W oil.

well, I can't find any around here at all. Walmart quit carrying it, they have "30W non-detergent" oil for "lawnmowers".


I just gave it up, and bought a jug of Rotella T4 15w40 and will drain the oil later today, and give it the T4 and a new filter. Going to have to watch that real close, as I now know that I have been using the "wrong oil" for 515 hours of use over the last 7 years.


I will run it 20-25 hours, and change it out without fail.


My Suburban's GM recommendation is 5w30 which I am using sometimes,
5w40 was the last jug that I bought in Savannah, GA and was all the store had.
Never, ever, saw an auto store that only carried one weight of oil like that??


Now that all this discussion has been going on, I am wondering if the oil soak bottom side of the motor is a result of folks having used a heavier weight oil than GM prescribed?


the oil pressure gauge seems to stay at about 35 to 45 most of the time.


When I first bought the truck 2 years ago, it carried 60 psi.... and I thought, "uh, what is going on here?" this is not a diesel engine....


I switched it to 5w30 and the pressure fell back in line of about 40-45 depending on the weather.

~ John


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post #29 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 05:32 AM
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I haven't seen a non detergent oil in many years. Didin't think anyone even made it anymore. In a lawn mower I just use whatever oil is handy, they usually die of something besides oil related failure anyway.
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post #30 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 11:39 AM
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My B&S motor asks for detergent 30w too, but like what Dave said... When it was time to fill it, I found an old qt of Yamalub 20w40 on my shelf. I figured that will do until my next change.

Just went on Amazon and you can buy a 48 oz jug of B&S branded 30w detergent motor oil for $8 shipped Prime. I just ordered one for my next oil change.
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Thanks, JD
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