OIL !!! but for my Briggs 'n Stratton 23 hp YTH23V48 - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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My B&S motor asks for detergent 30w too, but like what Dave said... When it was time to fill it, I found an old qt of Yamalub 20w40 on my shelf. I figured that will do until my next change.

Just went on Amazon and you can buy a 48 oz jug of B&S branded 30w detergent motor oil for $8 shipped Prime. I just ordered one for my next oil change.

Walmart had a red jug branded B&S small engine oil.


but there was no reference to weight or detergency, so I did not pick it up.
no price on it either...


oh well, the jug of T4 will only last about 3 mowings, I can get something else later if I choose to.


my local wally world has a piss poor manager, does not keep in tune with what is needed on the shelves.

~ John


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post #32 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 06:07 PM
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I had a ford motor rebuilt by a independent professional mechanic and I asked him what oil he recommended and he said I donít care ,what matters I how often the drain plug comes out,thatís been 30 years ago so things may have changed now.
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post #33 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 12:14 PM
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I used T6 5w40 syn in my Honda EMi 5000 generator for years of cold winters in the mountains, have 6,100 hours on it with no ill effects. It uses more 30w I use during the hot summers than it uses of the 5w40. I also exclusively use T6 in my GL1200 for the last 60K miles. I know there are expert opinions about tolerances, oil ports, etc. for using recommended oils...but I don't argue with positive results. As for oil consumption, had a high mileage, high consumption beater caravan that needed an oil change and didn't have the 10w30 handy, so I threw in 5w20 and it stopped losing oil. Don't know why, don't care- it was a beater.
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post #34 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 02:35 PM
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I was in charge of heavy equipment at an excavating company. We used Shaffer synthetic, and sampled oil when we changed to the synthetic. We started with the most wore out POS we had, as an experiment. Our original program was to change at 250 hrs. Manufacturer suggested 500hr.
Test piece was a Komatsu 220-5 excavator that had 12k hrs on it .We sampled the oil that was what was equal to Rot T 15w40 at 250 hrs . Lab said it could run longer. We replaced oil with the synthethic. Ran it 250 hrs, tested again, lab said to run it another 250. At 500 hrs we tested again. Lab said to keep running it. At 750 hrs we chickened out and changed it, the lab said that the Base units where nearly depleted. I diesel engines , the fuel contains sulphur, when that goes by the rings, the base units neutralize the sulphur so that with condensation in the oil doesnt form sulphuric acid.
Since we used our most wore out piece, we determined that 750 hours was a safe interval. That cut our oil expense by 2/3. The rest of the fleet was changed to synthetic, and placed on the 750hr. schedule.
That Komatsu excavator was sold , still running fine with excess of 20k hrs.
I'm not here to praise any particular brand of oil, but if you can trust one to lube a $20,000 engine, in a crappy environment. You should trust it to work in your bike or mower. Just pay attention to the rating, make sure it exceeds what the engine manufacturer requires, and that the viscosity is correct for conditions.
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post #35 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 06:13 PM
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Extremely well put! Best oil explanation ever.
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post #36 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MaynardGKrebbs View Post
Since we used our most wore out piece, we determined that 750 hours was a safe interval. That cut our oil expense by 2/3. The rest of the fleet was changed to synthetic, and placed on the 750hr. schedule.


That Komatsu excavator was sold , still running fine with excess of 20k hrs.
I'm not here to praise any particular brand of oil, but if you can trust one to lube a $20,000 engine, in a crappy environment. You should trust it to work in your bike or mower. Just pay attention to the rating, make sure it exceeds what the engine manufacturer requires, and that the viscosity is correct for conditions.

750 hours at 40 mph overall average, Idling, etc, is 30,000 miles.


based on the 1st post, Blackstone labs said to run our car another 16,000 miles on the next change and sample it again..... I chickened out and it is being changed at roughly annual in December..... it is now almost May and it has not been changed yet....


I think your experience agrees very closely with what the lab told me to do.


My son, changes the oil filter on his Cummins engine every six months, and runs the oil two years..... sometimes, that is a lot of miles...


on my 2001 Suburban at 212,000 miles, it is loosing about 1 qt every 2,000 miles, or less. Not sure exactly... I just keep topping it once in a while. It has 5w30 Mobil1 in it.... I am thinking to just change the filter on it, and just keep topping it off. We just bought the truck a year ago this month.
It runs like a top, steering is tight, transmission is perfect, pulls the 8,000 lb RV trailer quite well.


it is a 4x4 which is great for a heavy trailer that gets off pavement sometimes.

~ John


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post #37 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 08:04 AM
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750 hours at 40 mph overall average, Idling, etc, is 30,000 miles.


based on the 1st post, Blackstone labs said to run our car another 16,000 miles on the next change and sample it again..... I chickened out and it is being changed at roughly annual in December..... it is now almost May and it has not been changed yet....


I think your experience agrees very closely with what the lab told me to do.


My son, changes the oil filter on his Cummins engine every six months, and runs the oil two years..... sometimes, that is a lot of miles...


on my 2001 Suburban at 212,000 miles, it is loosing about 1 qt every 2,000 miles, or less. Not sure exactly... I just keep topping it once in a while. It has 5w30 Mobil1 in it.... I am thinking to just change the filter on it, and just keep topping it off. We just bought the truck a year ago this month.
It runs like a top, steering is tight, transmission is perfect, pulls the 8,000 lb RV trailer quite well.


it is a 4x4 which is great for a heavy trailer that gets off pavement sometimes.
John, chances are good that the oil is being lost through worn valve seals and guides. Just adding oil is the easy way out but in the long run you will end up putting on new catalytic converters since the burning oil will wipe them out. I would just replace the valve seals if you don't want to pull the heads and have the guides done.
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post #38 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 04:55 PM
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John, I have a Husqvarna also. Mine is a 2246. I usually get the 30w HD oil at walmart where the spark plugs and other small engine stuff is. They do sometimes not have any, so I buy it at Auto Zone. It costs more than a lot of the others though. Mine is about 3 years old with almost 130 hours on it. I mow about 2 acres, usually about once a week in the spring. I very seldom add any oil and change it every spring.

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post #39 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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John, chances are good that the oil is being lost through worn valve seals and guides. Just adding oil is the easy way out but in the long run you will end up putting on new catalytic converters since the burning oil will wipe them out. I would just replace the valve seals if you don't want to pull the heads and have the guides done.

REF: 2001 Suburban

I forgot to mention that the bottom of the engine is wet with oil.
all of the topside gaskets are new, I had the intake manifold pulled and new gaskets installed, they found the knock sensors were bad, and a mouse had chewed the wiring harness to them badly, so that was replaced.


The Catalytic Converters were removed and replaced with straight thru pipe, so that is not an issue.


The trucks runs fine, just not getting the MPG that it should, which I believe to be a problem with the O2 sensors are not out of calibration with the cats being removed. I looked at the expense of buying new cats, and said 'no' to that. No emissions tests where I live.

~ John


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post #40 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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John, I have a Husqvarna also. Mine is a 2246. I usually get the 30w HD oil at walmart where the spark plugs and other small engine stuff is. They do sometimes not have any, so I buy it at Auto Zone. It costs more than a lot of the others though. Mine is about 3 years old with almost 130 hours on it. I mow about 2 acres, usually about once a week in the spring. I very seldom add any oil and change it every spring.

for the 1st 300 hours, it did not use hardly any oil at all.
there is a gasket leak somewhere on the left side of the engine, it makes a horrible mess, so I just spray it off with the high pressure washer to keep the dirt from building up.



I have to lift the front of the mower up, so I can lay down and use the high pressure washer to clean the deck. If that is not done, the grass packs up solid until it hits the blades... when that happens, it won't cut grass anymore.


we have almost six acres, of which we mow about 3.5 acres.
the Husqvarna was purchased in the spring of 2012 and has 525 hours on it today. I replaced the OEM oil drain vavle with a long nipple and 1/4 turn Ball Valve. Hated that factory push/twist drain vavle, it burned my hands every time, not to mention the mess it makes



Bought a new mower lift this week, the old Harbor Freight piece of junk mower lift collapsed and damn near did me in. it was also a super PITA to store, once it is put together, it is Full Size all the time.....


the new one is a Mojack HDL500 which will collapse fully down to the width of the frame, about six inches. It will then hang on the wall out of the way a blessing for me.


it also has a rating of 500lbs with a very strong Anti-Drop locking mechanism.... jack it up a fraction, step on the lock release and let it down. None of that crap of falling on you like the HF did. ( the frame actually broke and it collapsed all at once )
Attached Images
File Type: png Mojack Lift.png (98.7 KB, 4 views)

~ John


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