No forward gears - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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I can turn the lifter plate with two fingers without turning the clutch pack. When I took out the bolts that hold the lifter plate in, there was no tension in the plate. The book says to loosen the bolts in a crisp cross pattern. As soon as I broke them loose, you could turn them out with your fingers.
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post #32 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 09:18 AM
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I think the next step for you is to bend the lock tab out of the way so you can remove the nut holding the clutch plates/hub assembly on the main shaft.
I know mother honda has a special tool to hold the clutch center . Not sure about the space you are working in. If you have access to an air impact and space to use it. that might remove the nut without the honda tool .
When you begin removing all these clutch parts pay close attention the order of assembly . There are many parts that need to reassemble in the correct order. Are you working with a Honda Service manual?
As you remove the parts the fibre disc should measure 3.5mm/0.14in . The steel plates should measure 0.30mm/0.012in.
I dont see a measurement for the damper plate, only to check that the wave springis not damaged. If this damper wave spring is flat that could be the problem.
When you get to the diaphragm spring it should be a convex shape measuring 5.1mm/0.20in tall. Measuring it laying flat, convex up. Measure from the center tangs to the base/surface you have it laying on.
If you are able to remove the clutch center/hub the diaphragm spring is located behind this hub.

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post #33 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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I have the clutch pack out. I can move all of the clutch disc with just my finger tips
Is this right. I thought they should be real tight in there.
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post #34 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 02:43 PM
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So you have removed the nut from the mainshaft and pulled the clutch pak out of the basket? If so there is no tension on the clutch plates.
You should have in hand 21 pieces of the clutch pak
One clutch center
One pressure plate ( four posted part)
nineteen assorted fibre/steel plates ( which must be kept in correct order)
7 disc A- fibre
1 disc B- fibre
2 disc C- fibre
1 Clutch damper plate ( 3 pieces , 2 plates seperated by a wave spring)
8 steel plates
If you have the pressure plate in hand , look on the main shaft for the diaphragm spring. Also what looks like a circlip.

Now with the clutch assembly removed, Put the transmission in gear. Rotate the output shaft ( drive shaft) When doing this the mainshaft should rotate in the same direction .

Do you have the factory service manual? If so we can be sure we are talking/looking at the same reference points.

Let us know what you find.

Last edited by AZgl1800; 07-26-2019 at 03:38 PM.
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post #35 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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3 of the clutch disc are down to bear metal on both sides and 3 are down to bear metal on one side. Just ordered everything new. Gonna rebuild slave cylinder too
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post #36 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 04:35 PM
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Any broken rivets on the damper plate?

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post #37 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 04:51 PM
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Inspect everything carefully. A worn out clutch doesn't let go all at once like you described. You would have had slipping for quite a long time before it would get to the point it wouldn't move. So you probably have more than one problem.
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post #38 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 07:33 PM
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Be sure to change oil and filter at time and maybe the next few times at early intervals. I would change early and use SeaFoam(directions on can) additive the last 100 or so miles before the oil/filter change. . That's a lot of fiber floating around someplace .

Mike
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post #39 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolohunter View Post
I drove it that day frommissori to greensburg Pa. I pulled in to get gas
When I started it up, put it in first to let the clutch out. The fro t end went down and the motor died down some. But the bike never moved. The temp gauge wasn't quite half way, it being 96 out. I checked the master cylinder and was almost dry. I put dot 3 in and bled the slave cylinder but still no forward gears. I jacked it up and preyed back the rubber boot covering drive shaft
On start up the back wheels will turn, but I can stop them with my hands while it is gear. Had my wife stop them from turning and the output shaft stops turning
I know I'm late reading this but if I'm not mistaken you should use DOT 4 I'm sure DOT 3 would work in a pinch but as long you are rebuilding the clutch system I would recommend using the correct Fluid.

Dave
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post #40 of 51 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lionelgo50 View Post
I know I'm late reading this but if I'm not mistaken you should use DOT 4 I'm sure DOT 3 would work in a pinch but as long you are rebuilding the clutch system I would recommend using the correct Fluid.
I don't think it really matters. DOT4 has a higher boiling point but not a problem in a clutch system especially & unless it is synthetic DOT4 also absorbs moisture faster than DOT3, lowering it's boiling point at a higher rate. Most fluid you find now is both DOT 3&4 compatible.
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