No forward gears - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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No forward gears

I just got back from a 7000 mile 12 day trip. Got 36 mile from home and my 96 1500 goldwing doesn,t have any forward gears. It shifts in every gear but won't move. No claim g or banging
Stopped to fill her up with gas and went to pull out and nothing. Got her home. Put it up on jack stands and give her gas and nothing
It has a leman trike kit on it. Bled the master cylinder for the clutch and the slave cylinder. The drive shaft doesn't t even turn
Any suggestions. Transmission? 29,000 miles on it
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post #2 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolohunter View Post
I just got back from a 7000 mile 12 day trip. Got 36 mile from home and my 96 1500 goldwing doesn,t have any forward gears. It shifts in every gear but won't move. No claim g or banging
Stopped to fill her up with gas and went to pull out and nothing. Got her home. Put it up on jack stands and give her gas and nothing
It has a leman trike kit on it. Bled the master cylinder for the clutch and the slave cylinder. The drive shaft doesn't t even turn
Any suggestions. Transmission? 29,000 miles on it
Front U-joint is my first guess. remove rear universal joint straps and drop U-joint from rear axle, then pull the driveshaft out and look up driveshaft tunnel towards transmission.

How sure are you that the driveshaft doesn't turn. It is just possible that the weld between driveshaft and rear U-joint yoke has let go and shaft is just spinning in yoke. Lower yoke in picture is the welded early make up, upper is a newer splined shaft set up.


I once asked a Lehman guy his experiences as to which was tougher. My '97 was converted in '98 and had welded shaft until a few years ago when I found a splined set up, I use the splined version now, the welded shaft is my spare. His reply is here:
Quote:
I have seen failures on both the un-splined and splined versions of the shaft. The welded (un-splined) versions might fail because of initial prep or a bad weld, but mostly from abuse. The original owners were mostly well trained in how they treated their trikes. The second owners were a little more brutal and the third owners are generally worse. The splined shaft failures are usually abuse. Of course proper phasing of the u-joints is imperative.

Failures of the driveshaft, even the front joint rarely cause significant damage such as transmission output shaft.

Driveshaft vibration can be caused by a lot of different things. The splined yoke being loose. It should have a set screw and a groove on the splines for the screw so that the yoke can't move on the shaft. Improper phasing of the u-joints and sometimes just simply rotating the front joint 180 degrees will reduce if not eliminate vibrations. The last thing is front yoke to output shaft. I have seen some that appeared to be good but putting the trike in gear the front yoke would move on the output shaft like the splines inside the yoke were bad. I have never seen an output shaft spline go bad. YET !!

And of course the last thing is balance which I have never seen when using the right parts.

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Attached Images
File Type: jpg Welded vs Splined rear yokes use Moog 430 joint.jpg (232.6 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg D-shaft 1997 inst page 11 1024w.jpg (152.1 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg D-shaft 1997 pic page 12 1024w.jpg (81.1 KB, 13 views)

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post #3 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Will check on that tomorrow. Thanks
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post #4 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 07:00 PM
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When the problem happened was their fluid in the reservoir?
Now that the system has been flushed and bled, does it have good pressure?


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post #5 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:56 PM
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A clutch hydraulic problem would have the opposite effect.

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post #6 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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The master cylinder was almost dry, so I filled it up, bled the slave cylinder , still nothing. I then started up top. Bled the master cylinder. Then the slave cylinder. Still nothing. When it first starts up, the back wheels will spin, but I can stop them with my hands in gear. Even the drive shaft stops spinning in gear running
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post #7 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Yes it was real low
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post #8 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:52 AM
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If the rear wheels spun slowly at start up, sounds like maybe "windage" or "friction" drive since you could stop them with the hand.


Still no noises either?????
No noises in driveline or transmission?????


Did you look at the drive shaft at welded end closely? A broken weld where the shortened OEM shaft enters the rear Neapco yoke would still leave shaft inserted in yoke to spin. The instructions for making the shaft say to weld at tip too, but mine never was, and mine had like 60,xxx miles on that welded drive shaft before I swapped in updated splined shaft with a new Valkyrie front U-joint and a new Moog 430 rear U-joint.


I don't see low hydraulic fluid in line causing it, but if the line somehow became blocked and trapped clutch fluid under pressure after you pulled clutch lever, could keep clutch disengaged. Does or did the clutch lever feel normal or limp on release? What you normally feel returning the lever to relaxed position is clutch spring pressure pushing fluid back up to clutch master cylinder.


Clutch plates could be worn out, but I would expect the symptoms to be noticed before. Things like a lot of prolonged clutch slipping when lever released. I don't know your habits, but I've seen people really slowly drag out the clutch engagement once triked, with the engine reved up, "slipping the clutch" excessively pulling away from stop, two up, with trailer. It's a wet clutch of multi plate design, it is tough, but it is killable.
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post #9 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:02 PM
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A complete failure of the damper plate could cause this but , like CrystalPistol says, it seems like symptoms would have shown up before the failure occurred. Also seems like there would be some noise from the back of the motor.

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post #10 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolohunter View Post
The master cylinder was almost dry, so I filled it up, bled the slave cylinder , still nothing. I then started up top. Bled the master cylinder. Then the slave cylinder. Still nothing. When it first starts up, the back wheels will spin, but I can stop them with my hands in gear. Even the drive shaft stops spinning in gear running
Quote:
Originally Posted by nolohunter View Post
Yes it was real low
If you found it low, there's a good possibility that the fluid has seeped out and is now inside the engine. You may want to rebuild the slave cylinder. Don't let the hydraulic fluid remain in the engine as it is harmful, change the oil and filter.


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