Trying to get front wheel bearings out of the wheel. - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Trying to get front wheel bearings out of the wheel.

I have a 1985 LTD if you didn't figure that out from my handle.
I am slowly working on a rebuild of my front end.


Bearings, brake pads, new fork seals, rebuild front calipers, clean the Trac system, gently resurface the disks, clean and repaint wheel and calipers ETC


When all that is done, and I am ready to slip the wheel in place, I will buy a new tire.
Probably Dunlop E4


The problem I am having is getting the front wheel bearings out. I researched and found the split bolt technique, but after an hour of trying that and trying to improve my device. The damn bearing is exactly where it was before I started. It hasn't moved at all.


What next?? Try the bolt and heat on the wheel? I don't DARE damage my wheel.


I am ready to take my shaft tool with a diamond cutter and cut the bearing apart inside the wheel


Any one got any secrets they will share?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 09:58 PM
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Well, it's a bit late to say I wouldn't mess with the wheel bearing unless it was bad. I would NoT use heat. I'd set the split bolt up, tighten the pulling bolt tight, and walk away for awhile.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 10:00 PM
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Have you tried the concrete anchor bolt method?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 02:35 AM
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I tried split bolts, bars and a bunch of make shift bearing pullers to no avail on my 02. Hate to say I ended up buying the Honda bearing tool. It wasn't much different than what I concocted but it worked so easy I was sorry I'd wasted so much time and energy. I bought mine online for maybe $30; after spending that much on home made gadgets! I think the tool's metal has increased friction against bearing metal. I think it would be worth taking the bearings and wheel to a cycle shop and fees up a few bucks to have them swap them.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 10:11 AM
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This I how I got mine out
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Okay I got them out.
I watched a vid where the guy sat the wheel in front of a heater for awhile, he cautioned against using a torch, just a gentle heat over the entire wheel not just the hub.


The split bolt then worked very well.


Thanks for the responses.


Question;

Since both bearing press against a shoulder inside the wheel, what is the spacer for?
It would hold the inner races in place after total bearing failure, but that is the only thing I can think of.

Patriot Guard Rider
I ride, and stand, for those who have fallen for us, and in memory of my father ( Army 1944-1947)

Previous bikes
CT 90---125 Benley (Honda)---insane minibike with 125 Honda motor---1982 CB 650
Current bikes
CN 250 Helix----1985 GL1200L Limited Edition
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 04:00 PM
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Without it the axle bolt would pinch the bearings together when tightened.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Without it the axle bolt would pinch the bearings together when tightened.
And since the bearings are not made for a side load it would destroy them in a short while.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Okay that makes sense now Thanks again.


Now to get the forks apart.
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Patriot Guard Rider
I ride, and stand, for those who have fallen for us, and in memory of my father ( Army 1944-1947)

Previous bikes
CT 90---125 Benley (Honda)---insane minibike with 125 Honda motor---1982 CB 650
Current bikes
CN 250 Helix----1985 GL1200L Limited Edition
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-85-LTD View Post
Okay that makes sense now Thanks again.
Now to get the forks apart.
Been awhile but seems to me that, I slipped top outer dust seal up, and remove retainer snap ring, lower fork allen head bolt & sealing washer above the axle (I used air ratchet to spin it out), let last bit of oil drain (coffee can underneath in drip zone), then just jerk the slider off of the tube
it's removal pulls upper washer, inner oil seal, and upper slider bushing out of slider, leaving them on the tube. Easier with tubes still gripped in the triple tree, front of bike blocked up, but I did once use old triple tree to grip them when I had removed tubes from trees first with sliders on them, tree held in a vise.
I use a long strip of extremely fine crocus cloth (like sand paper, but cloth like) to wrap and pull back and forth to polish or clean the fork tube. I wrapped lower end of tube in a piece of stiff smooth plastic cut from some package when slipping new seal up onto tube to protect the seal lip. I made a suitable slider seal & bushing install tool cut from PVC pipe, I used a plastic hammer to not ding fork tube as I hammered oil seal & upper slider bushing down into slider using my "tool"after sliding the slider up on the fork tube after reinserting and tightening that allen head bolt & washer.

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1997 GL-1500 SE / 1998 Lehman GTL Trike
...(Candy Spectra Red )
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