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1997 Goldwing GL1500 front end wobble

4K views 41 replies 19 participants last post by  GoldwingA1500 
#1 ·
Okay, so I know this issue has been debated and discussed all over the Internet. But I'm really wanting to solve the wobble issue that seems to happen between 35mph and 45 mph during cruise or deceleration (even acceleration). I installed the strut brace last year and it helped with the wobble; would not do it quite as easy. But what I hated about the brace was how stiff it made the front end ride, and I do mean stiff. So I removed the brace.

After riding the GL1200 for a few days, and going back to my GL1500, there's an obvious difference in the handle-bar feel. The bars on the GL1200 do not feel overwhelmed, but in fact feel tight, whereas the GL1500 bars feel flimsy and lose. It's my theory that the tree bearings might be worn, but also my front tire as I've noticed that you could feel the front end trying to wobble on high leans (left or right). I inspected the front tire and you can see that there is an awkward wear pattern towards the outer edges of the tire. So I will replace the tire first to see if that's the culprit. If not, then I will remove both struts and check the tree. Seems far too easy to turn the handle bars, and they appear to wiggle a little when you oscillate the bars left and right, as though the wheel/tire itself does not immediately turn with the bars; feels like there's play left and right.

Has anyone ever solved the Goldwing wobble issue WITHOUT having to install the after-market strut brace?

Joe
 
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#12 ·
I was going to do that today, but the center nut (I think about 18mm or larger) has a wiring harness through it so I didn't feel like piddling around with it. I've also torqued the strut clamp bolts and still no change. Both struts are set at 6psi, although the book recommends 3psi; still no change.

I think it's the tire as the treading on the edges (both sides) appears to be cupping or feathering, likely from merely how I've been riding. Then again, this bike has done this since I purchased the bike. It really doesn't scare me as it is controllable. At higher speeds, the wheel does not wobble unless I force it to wobble by oscillating the bars left and right with one hand. If I am traveling faster than 46mph, it will not sustain the wobble and will quickly smooth back out. But under 45mph, if I force the wobble, it will grow worse until I take control with both hands. Keep in mind that I'm only testing the wobble effects with a single hand, but that is not how I ride. :grin3:

I think it's the tire.

Joe
 
#3 ·
Your GL1500 has the tapered steering stem bearings. I would replace the tire first. If that does not resolve the issue then re-torque the steering stem bearings.

Then go from there if needed.....!

If you are referring to the "Super Brace", they help to prevent flexing of the front forks but do not cause the forks to be harder to collapse (up and down). However it is important to install them correctly so they "do not bind" the forks. I have used one for many years.....!
 
#13 ·
That's the problem I had when installing the brace. I don't recall the brand name, but it flexed the struts outwards. I even loosened the strut clamps to allow the strut to settle as I install the brace, and it still flexed the struts outwards. The only thing I can think of is to grind off some of the metal on the brace. Another problem is the guy who sent me the brace sent the wrong bolts; he sent me 7mm bolts, and mine uses 8mm. So I had to go to a hardware store to find the right bolts.

Joe
 
#5 ·
I have my 2nd GL1500SE. Neither one has a 'wobble'. But I did re-torque the front triple tree bearings on the first one I owned just because I had other things off, so it was easy then. I also have a GL1800 that has the 'super brace' installed by the P O> He and others on the forums claim it makes a difference. I have never ridden without it so can't say for sure. I would check the tire pressure 1st, then the triple tree bearings for tightness. After that, maybe even the rear swing arm bearings or rear tire. I have heard both cause some problems that are hard to track down. It may take a while and some 'tinkering' to fix it. When you do, please let us know what solved the problem and what all you had done to get there.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the inputs guys!

I will try torquing the tree bearings since to me (by feel) that might be what's causing the problem. Even with the super-brace I installed (and also removed), it still wobbled although not as much. It might also be my tire since the wobbling in more tense under right or left turn leans.

My tires are Bridgestone; only my 1986 model has Dunlops.

I will definitely post my finds.

Joe
 
#11 ·
As far as I know, the rear should be good. I just had the rear tire replaced a few months ago.

I service both the front and the rear with 40psi. I now the book calls for a little less, but I'm using Bridgestone tires and modern tires in my opinion can utilize a slightly higher pressure. I think the book calls for 36psi on the front, and the pressure on the rear to about 39psi with passenger. So I just set both of them at 40PSI. I've tried riding on the stock pressure recommendations and the wobble still happens.

Joe
 
#10 ·
I hate the way it makes the front so stiff; does a lot of bouncing. It might be because the struts will have to be loosened so that the brace fits perfectly without flexing the struts outwards as they were doing. But even with the brace on, it still wobbled although not as easily as it does without the brace. I think it's the tire as you can see the treat sort of feathering on the tire edges.

Joe
 
#14 ·
My 1993 had a Brigestone on it when I bought it. It would start to shake when coming to a stop. If I would have let go of the bars it would have slapped both side's of the False tank. The tire was cupped and really on it's last leg. I put a new to me used tire on it that I bought and it made a big difference, ( happened to be a Dunlop) then I rebuilt the front fork's and put the Black Hawk brace on and it made it better but when I jacked up the front end I could feel a flat spot in turning the Handel bars back and forth. The bike rode very good at this point but I knew that flat spot was there. Then I replaced the upper and lower bearings and installed the new Dunlop E4 tire, 39 or 40 lbs . I also replaced the wheel bearings on the front end. That tire has 14,102 miles on it and no shake in the front end. The tire is smooth on the sides no cupping. It also shows very little wear for the miles I have on it. My bike has 159,000 miles on it so the front end was worn out. I have a Dunlop E4 on the rear and I like them a lot, but it's not the tire that solved the Shake it was the front end was loose and worn out. I run Bia's ply tires like Honda put on the bike from the factory. I have spent a lot of time and money on my good deal when I bought it. I'm lucky that I can still learn things and can do this stuff. Also it takes a lot of help and advise from guy's on here. Even Dennis with his never Dunlop. Joe did you get this bike running right, the carb stuff?
 
#15 ·
front tire don't know what your running goes away with avon tire on bike bad with Dunlop or metizler new e-4 Dunlop is a good copy of avon seems to well
 
#16 ·
If you have to put pressure on the forks to get the brace on ,then there’s an issue,it should just fit fine,the front wheel may have been installed incorrectly,try loosening the pinch bolts and see it the brace will go on like it’s supposed to,any chance one of the tubes might be bent.
 
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#18 ·
It's quite possible, and that might have happened when I first tried to install the brace; I forced it. After I took it off, I checked to see if either of the tubes were bent, and I was unable to tell; they both seem to slide just fine. Right now, the bike doesn't bounce as it did with the brace.

When I installed the brace the second time, I loosened the pinch bolts (top and bottom) and installed the brace. Even then I had to use a little bit of force. So I ground off the corners of the brace just enough so that the brace would sit right down. And while most of the wobble was nearly gone, the front would bounce on every single wavy spot of the road, much like a sport bike. So I removed it.

Joe
 
#19 ·
Your steering bearings are loose and will be shot soon or already are. The loose bearings are being pounded into their races and will have grooves worn in them that will show up as being a notchy feeling when you finally tighten them and then they will need to be replaced.

I had gone through that with my 88 years ago. I learned a lot from this forum back then.

My '12 had BAD decel wobble from almost new and tightening those OEM ball bearings did no good so i had finally got around to tearing it down and replaced with tapered rollers and now it is like a new bike. Was 100% worth the trouble and since i had done it before i new what i was in for.

Your superbrace is definitely binding the forks and needs to fit properly one way or another or the slider bushings and lower fork leg with be badly worn.
 
#23 ·
Low air in the REAR suspension also causes the Bike to wallow, or not tract straight. Using Progressive Rear Suspension (90psi) pretty much fixed that on my 1500's.


I also like using a BT45 (Bias) front tire... it stiffens up the front end too, more so than a radial.


Might also verify that swing arm bearings are in good shape, and torqued properly.
 
#24 ·
I agree with Dave


But I also like the post about checking stem bearing torque



However the product claims this should solve the wobble. So I guess they imply it is a factory defect, that is normal. Thus why they made the products called super brace.



Now I have a fork brace on my Gl1800 and I like it , but I can tell you it is very critical you install it per directions. I have included the directions just for your FYI. Each step is important.



DO not assume the tire is on correctly , follow these steps to a TEEE


Honda GoldWing 15001. Place motorcycle on the center stand.2. Loosen axle and pinch bolts.3. Remove the plastic chrome cover over the fender.4. Carefully remove one front bolt and one rear bolt on the opposite side with a 7/16" or 11mm socket.5. Screw the two long studs into the holes that the bolts just came out of. (approximately 1/4" into fender support plate)6. Remove the other two bolts and install the SuperBrace over the studs. Tap it down by hand. Should be snug but DO NOT FORCE IT. Secure it with two new bolts provided first and then remove the long studs. Now install the last two new bolts and tighten all four bolts to 12 ft. pounds. 7. Inside the plastic chrome cover will be two little ears. Remove them with a pair of pliers so that the cover will fit down properly. Now tighten the cover down with the bolts.8. Re-torque the axle and pinch bolts to factory spec.IMPORTANT: Before riding, bounce the front suspension of the motorcycle and cycle it up and down to ensure proper installation was done. To prevent stiction, make sure the fork tubes are parallel and the axle bolt is NOT over tightened. Factory torque spec is required.
 
#25 ·
GoldwingA1500

I had that wobble happen to me, and ultimately what made it completely go away was when I replaced the stem bearings.

Everybody said tire, so I changed that first, and it did help a lot. But it was still there if I induced the wobble (not recommended, lol), so then I changed the fork bushings, which I changed anyway when I replaced the seals, because when I got the bike it had NO fork oil (added some and discovered the bad seal, which promptly ruined the front brakes).

Then I read a post about the stem bearings, and after much research, I learned how to make the correct tool needed, and so replaced the stem bearings and the seats. After that I could bang on the handlebars (also not recommended) with no hint of wobble.

Now there is a detailed set of directions that need to be followed to correctly "seat" the bearings, but that link above looks good. I used some directions that had photos, and all went well. The hard part is getting/making the tools needed. They have a loan program here somewhere. Good Luck.
 
#28 ·
Thanks a bunch. I"ll be honest. Working on the front forks and tree kind of scares me. :grin3: But I must do what I gotta do. I'm certain that my problem is the same as yours was. I too "induced" the wobble simply be letting go with one hand, or by creating the wobble myself, to wit it worsens on its own unless I stop the wobble. Compared to the GL1200 I have, the handle bar movement just feels very slippery and loose to me, and sometimes feels hard to control when turning on rough terrain such as a bumpy ground as I have to fight the curves of the road when making a u-turn on a bumpy surface; scares me sometimes.

Joe
 
#26 ·
Worn head bearings is what’s causing your low speed wobble.
Tires can cause a shake, as well as low fork fluid, weak suspension etc.
I have repaired many makes of bikes, with the death wobble. 1500 and 1800’s also.

There is more to it then just bearing replacement, they must be seated and loaded correctly to cure the issue.
 
#30 ·
At first about 36psi which is what the sticker suggests for the front. I boosted them up to 40psi, yet there was not change. It will only wobble by itself if I let go of one hand and my speed is under 45mph. I can also make it wobble if I do so manually while lightly holding the grips.

Joe
 
#33 ·
O the older wings,I would put the bike on the center stand,jack the front,and center the handlebars and the turn them just off center and if the bars would keep turning,that’s too loose,I would just tighten the stem nut till it would stay on center and stay in one spot when moved off center.I know that sound kinda ******* but it worked fine for me.
 
#41 ·
Joe, adjusting that thing is not quite as easy as it might sound. Here is a tutorial on how its done. I think the lock nuts on the top are 30mm. The steering stem adjustment nut needs a special tool to fit into the tabs to tighten it. You can either modify a socket to work on it or do like I did and buy one that is made for it. I think I paid $30 for one from a guy that makes them. The one from Honda is crazy expensive.


https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12367


Here is where I got my steering stem spanner wrench. It is advertised as being for an 1800 but it is the same for the 1500 and probably the earlier GLs also.
http://dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm
 
#42 ·
Thanks for the info. I reviewed the information a few times to digest the processes involved; yes it looks to be quite tedious. But I refuse to spend $320 bucks at a Honda Shop for them to replace the head bearings.

As far as I can tell, I do not believe my bearings are worn out since there is no grinding or chaffing of any kind during steering bar osculation. I did however find play when grabbing the front wheel and doing a push-pull test; the entire wheel and fork assembly will move about an 8th of an inch. So I suspect it is loose, or possibly the bearing races are worn. So I figured I'd try to re-torque them first. If the wheel still has movement, then I will replace the bearings and races. Should be a fun job. I will go ahead and replace my front forks as well since the left one leaks a tiny bit of oil through the upper seal.

Joe
 
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