Hi. I have tried to detail the symptoms but I'm generally not very good at this.
This Post is Confusing ! ! !
1. I hear things like Battery Is discharging
1 a. How do you know ?
2. Battery load test shows 12.x volts after on a charge
2a. A battery has 6 cells . each only produces 2.1 volts 2.1x6 = 12.6 volts fully charged
2b. You see 13.2v or what ever because it was just charged
2c. When test a battery that has been just charged , they tell you to knock off surface charge with carbon pyle style tester. Then retest .
3. Electronic battery tester
3a. if you use an electronic battery tester be sure and clip it on LEAD ONLY or it WILL Be False
don't believe me go to manufacture website.
3b. Also you must tell the electronic tester machine, what kind of battery it is , or it will be false .
4. Lights on all the time
4a. With Key off ????
4b. I never met a road bike that did not have lights on with it running , but I maybe wrong
4c. I explained how to check for a draw
4d. Does it start ???
5. A lot of folks trying to help but I think ( no offense this has gone off the rails ) I think everyone is confused, especially those trying to help .
How do I know the battery discharges? Right, with the battery fully charged, connected to the bike and, with a multi-meter connected across the poles of the battery, switching the key to the first position causes the saddlebag lights to illuminate and, after a few minutes the battery will discharge very quickly. Hence the reason why I was thinking there may be a short within the circuit, particularly has this occurred whilst I was testing the trailer wiring circuit at the socket!
From fully charged the bike will initially start but obviously after a few attempts there is insufficient power remaining for it to continue starting. On having the battery tested the charge, although dropping slightly, remained steady thus resulting in a good battery report. I understand this is not the best way of testing this has it really needs to be under load to give a more accurate indication of its overall condition. This is why I prefer to use the Durite tester has it actually shorts the battery terminals directly, thus creating a 'false' load in theory. Unfortunately, I don't know of anywhere that use these now as they are now illegal to use in the UK due to past injuries caused by misuse.
My previous 'Wing was a 2000SE European spec and the lights would only operate with a switch located under the horn button. It's not a 'legal requirement' to ride in the UK with the lights on, although highly recommended. Personally I would prefer to be able to switch them on and off as necessary. In fact, not too long ago I was looking for a switch for this very purpose, but never found one.
I did briefly attempt a 'draw test' but, with the saddlebag lights illuminating, the test lamp was continually on once the key was turned to the first position onwards. I just thought this test wasn't worth continuing with. Perhaps I'm wrong here?
I don't know if this clarifies the situation or not, but I can only detail these details as I see them?