Just an update
Originally Posted by MaynardGKrebbs
AzHonda had the proper test procedure with the test lamp. Hook it in series(like a fuse) on the negative side of battery. Any parasitic load on the battery will appear as a lit test lamp. Remove fuses or disconnect items, one at a time, until light goes out. This will locate the circuit.
The type of problem you describe can be caused by a backfeed, usually caused by some green fuzzy connection or a module or relay bad ground. Sometimes backfeeds can be the fault of something as simple as the two filaments of a bulb touching after the one breaks off the common lead inside the bulb. This would connect the park lamps to the brake lamps circuit, placing voltage on an unintended path.
FYI A fully charged battery will read between 12.7 and 13.2 depending on how much of the flash charge has been drained off.
A discharged (in need of charge) will test 12.5 on a voltmeter. Load testing can be done with either style of load tester that was shown in earlier post. Or you can rig up several headlamp bulbs as a load. What you want to see is a voltage that drops from the 12.7 to the 12.5 slowly, and will recover to somewhere over 12.5 after load is removed. Voltage from 13.2 to 12.7 will drop fairly quickly as this is the flash charge(surface charge).
Some modules, radio memory, ECU, FCM may have keep alive memory. Which can appear as a parasitic load, barely lighting the test lamp. If you leave the test lamp hooked up as described, and use a piece of wiring to temporarily jump across the test lamp leads. This should furnish enough current to turn off the module(draw). After removing wire but keeping test lamp connected, the lamp should stay out.
Low battery voltage, poor grounds, crusty green connections, added equipment can all cause a power drain situation. A process of elimination of curcuits is the only way you can find/fix these problems.
Sorry I haven't posted for a few days, the weather in the UK has prevented me from doing any further work on the bike. What I can say is that I have received and fitted a new gel battery and that seems to have sorted most, if not all of the problem.
I had to remove the saddlebags to access the wiring, particularly to the trailer, and have been going through any accessory wiring that may have been added prior to my purchase. I have come across an issue with wiring to lighting that is fitted beneath the trailer hitch. This has been spliced into the wiring loom behind the L/H bottom corner panel with another wire from the same connection running up and spliced into the L/H stop & tail light in the top box lighting. However, when I disconnect this and reconnect the standard wiring the fuse in that circuit blows.
This could easily be the root of the problem, particularly with this extra wire running from the left hand saddlebag lighting to the left hand stop & tail light? Remember I mentioned that these lights stayed on with the ignition off? Could this be a 'back feed'? Just don't know how, or where other owners have tried to access power for lighting and accessories.
I will investigate further and post my findings when the weather improves. Thanks all for the information and help so far.