Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums - View Single Post - 2003 Won't start now

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post #43 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 06:51 PM
redwing52
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin, USA
Year: 1999
Make: GL1500 SE
Posts: 5,427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bvanemon View Post
Just a final update everything is working fine. Really it never started this quick before. All in all, it wasn't as bad of a job as I expected.
Added a second ground using the topmost starter bolt down to the main ground. Reinstalling the tank was fun, I had to pull the bolts that hold the brace in place due to the rubber mushroom won't let the tank in.
I did get an AMP reading from the power cable of the starter, it only read 25 amps while turning if over. I wish now I would have slowed down a bit and looked for continuity from the ground side, it would've told me from the get-go the loss of the ground.
A huge thanks go out to those that kept me going. (Redwing, Dave, Dennis, AG) again Thank You
My wife actually came out, just to make sure it was running she to told me to slow down and take a breath.
After getting an inch of snow last night can't wait for the first ride of the spring.
Brian,
It can be confusing when you use a meter for certain tests. If you set your meter to ohms and put one probe on the stater and one on the frame I would bet you would get a reading near zero. Thhe reason is because the ground was good enough that the little bit of power that comes from the meter can find a pretty easy way to get from the starter to the frame. That would not be the case if you tried to really push a lot of current through the same connections. The little bit of conductivity is like a super highway for the voltage from the meter. It can just fly right through and read fine. When you push the start button and all that power comes barreling toward that bad connection it is like a super highway with a 100 car accident. Nothing gets through. Make sense?
So, a better test would be to put the red probe of your voltmeter (set on DC Volts) on the bare steel of the starter and the black probe on the bare metal of the frame. Now when you push the sterter button and the voltage can not get through the 100 car accident it could go up the meter and you would see 12 volts instead of zero as you would expect. That is a voltage drop test. It measures the difference in voltage between the starter housing and frame. Hope some day it helps. Just remember when testing a circuit where an amp or so usually goes through an ohm meter is probably OK. When you first hit the start button there is probably 200 amps plus trying to get through that crappy connection. Understand why it did not spin? If you are testing a circuit with high amps normally, a voltage drop test is what you need. That is the same issue the manual failed on when they asked yo to check continuity across the solenoids "A" and "B."

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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