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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2006, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Marfa, Texas, USA
Posts: 708
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ARKnapp wrote:
77GL1: I have copied your picture and blew it up to see more detail. Can you tell me how the insulated mounting board is attached or if it is this board that attaches to the bike? Your comment in that after cleaning it (the wires and connectors) will get dirty again is very true.

In any case if the mounting of the terminal strip is easily removed RTV (Room Temperature Self Vucanizing) rubber in a tube can be used. After you spread it on in a single layer and it then vulcanized into a solid rubber mass it can then be stripped off at a later date in one piece since it will be nothing more than a piece of rubber. Also the use of duct seal or duxseal will do the same thing and willl come off in an easier manner. And when removed the contacts will be as clean as it was when you cleaned up.

Another method if you are expert with a heat gun, soldering gun it is to redo all the connections when all is clean with a heat shrink tube on each cable and make the connections, then pull the heat shrink right up to the connector and just before you heat it up, inject RTV or Silicon into the end of the heat shrink tube, and all over the outside of the connector. Oxidation will not take place between the wire and the connector where it touches. When this is done then assemble with a blanket of Duxseal. Also a larger heat shrink can be used over the wire and the connector, but fastening may be a problem.

When you come back to it in 50 years it will still be clean. Caution, be sure to clean well and not put any of this anti-oxident in the contact area. If all this leaves you a little bland then the following is a guaranteed method and is used in all electrical connections of differing materials. Before making up the joint go out a buy a tube, can of electrical anti-oxidant conductive inhibitor, typical name is NOAL OX (sp). This is usually used by electricians who work according to the NEC and was developed for joining alu/cu joints.
Oooo-boy, all I did was clean off the grease that had hardened into an almost solid black substance. I stopped there.

I'm not sure what you mean by "insulated mounting board". The triangular spring housing (in the top picture) slipped onto the "double" copper terminals seen in the bottom photo. Together they slipped into the metal housing (with spring loaded ball), and held in place by two (flat) metal clips, screwed into that side of the housing.

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