WTB old wind screens for GL1500 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-08-2014, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Location: oley, Pennsylvania, USA
Model: 1990 GL1500
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WTB old wind screens for GL1500

I am looking to buy some old wind screens for a GL1500. they can be scratched or cracked (a little anyway).
I want to experiment with cutting some down to make a short screen similar to the kind you see on some Harley tourers or the new F6B. There do not seem to be any shorty screens for the GL1500. the shortest one I have found is the Euro Sport screen, which I have but I do not want t cut it.

As long as the base where the mounting holes are is complete, I would be interested in it.

I was actually riding my bike for awhile without any windscreen in at all and it felt pretty good but the air really got strong at highway speeds. (but it was clean air, no buffetting, just lots of it)

1990 GL1500SE
Miraphone Norwegian Star Eb tuba
Benge 290 bass trombone
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 06:56 AM
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I have 2 GL1500 wind screens that are is good shape what ya think there worth remember shipping large box is around $50.00. PM if your intrested

Imagination is more important than knowledge - Einstein
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asigetic View Post
I have 2 GL1500 wind screens that are is good shape what ya think there worth remember shipping large box is around $50.00. PM if your intrested
hello asigetic, are your screens the "stock" screens?

I just found this one online. for some reason I had not seen this one before. I may give it a try.

http://wingstuff.com/products/32239-...ssories-gl1500

ken k

1990 GL1500SE
Miraphone Norwegian Star Eb tuba
Benge 290 bass trombone
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 10:42 AM
FM
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To bad your not closer, I saved my old screens for bits & pieces for 'X'.
You could stop in a hardware store or glass shop and ask for scrap plastic. Explain what you're doing, they might even show you. One did decades ago for plate glass edge finishing.

It is easy to cut a plastic windshield. The tool you'll use most is patience.
3 ways to cut Plexi or Acrylic. No matter which method you use, finishing the edge is required.

There is a special scratch awl made for plastic.
__ Takes a long time due to many multiple passes.
__ If the scratch is not deep enough, a running crack has a high chance to happen. To thwart this, cut/scratch both sides.
__ Slowly bend back & forth to weaken the cut area until it snaps apart. You'll hear it start by it's minute crackling sound.

Basic jig-saw.
__ Duct tape both sides of the cut. Preferably 2 layers, one on plastic the other on the saws base plate. Be sure to plainly see the line. Light from below is best, it will glow.
__ Use a new blade with offset teeth. Go slow, let the blade work and do not force the blade, force produces heat by friction. IF you're still concerned about heat, use compressed air on your cut and blade while cutting. It also keeps your line cleared to see it.

Portable Power Plane.
__ Twice now I have had wonderful results but be sure it has a sharp blade. Big plus is you'll be moving faster than a jig-saw there will be much less heat. Test by feel on every pass.
__ Keep a firm hold on plastic and planer or it'll chatter and problems arise. (I know this from my wood working days and hard woods)
__ Make minimal depth passes. I've never had it happen but too deep a cut will chip plastic and possibly have a running crack. Molded/formed plastic (and glass) has internal stresses waiting for the unsuspected.
__ Using this will create the edge near finished. Just a little water wet sanding (grit steps - 320/400/600/1000) will beget a foggy see-thru edge. Going 2000 grit will be glassy clear. You can dry sand but the paper will clog up necessitating cleaning. Quick rub on your pants removes a lot to keep going but not all.

A new file will cut the edge much quicker than sanding. This will help you get really close to your line before wet sanding. You might even like the finish it gives.

GOOD LUCK
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FM View Post
To bad your not closer, I saved my old screens for bits & pieces for 'X'.
You could stop in a hardware store or glass shop and ask for scrap plastic. Explain what you're doing, they might even show you. One did decades ago for plate glass edge finishing.

It is easy to cut a plastic windshield. The tool you'll use most is patience.
3 ways to cut Plexi or Acrylic. No matter which method you use, finishing the edge is required.

There is a special scratch awl made for plastic.
__ Takes a long time due to many multiple passes.
__ If the scratch is not deep enough, a running crack has a high chance to happen. To thwart this, cut/scratch both sides.
__ Slowly bend back & forth to weaken the cut area until it snaps apart. You'll hear it start by it's minute crackling sound.

Basic jig-saw.
__ Duct tape both sides of the cut. Preferably 2 layers, one on plastic the other on the saws base plate. Be sure to plainly see the line. Light from below is best, it will glow.
__ Use a new blade with offset teeth. Go slow, let the blade work and do not force the blade, force produces heat by friction. IF you're still concerned about heat, use compressed air on your cut and blade while cutting. It also keeps your line cleared to see it.

Portable Power Plane.
__ Twice now I have had wonderful results but be sure it has a sharp blade. Big plus is you'll be moving faster than a jig-saw there will be much less heat. Test by feel on every pass.
__ Keep a firm hold on plastic and planer or it'll chatter and problems arise. (I know this from my wood working days and hard woods)
__ Make minimal depth passes. I've never had it happen but too deep a cut will chip plastic and possibly have a running crack. Molded/formed plastic (and glass) has internal stresses waiting for the unsuspected.
__ Using this will create the edge near finished. Just a little water wet sanding (grit steps - 320/400/600/1000) will beget a foggy see-thru edge. Going 2000 grit will be glassy clear. You can dry sand but the paper will clog up necessitating cleaning. Quick rub on your pants removes a lot to keep going but not all.

A new file will cut the edge much quicker than sanding. This will help you get really close to your line before wet sanding. You might even like the finish it gives.

GOOD LUCK
thank you FM for the tips!
k

1990 GL1500SE
Miraphone Norwegian Star Eb tuba
Benge 290 bass trombone
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-13-2014, 11:23 PM
FM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubabone View Post
thank you FM for the tips!
k
No problem. Glad to help.
JUST show us some pix when your done.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 11:56 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Central Washington State, USA
Model: 1996 GLI 1500SE
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I use my Band saw with a fine tooth blade. A light filing to clean up the saw marks then a pass with the propane torch to "clear up" the edge.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-12-2014, 09:13 PM
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Hi I have an old f-4 custom windshield 20.00 plus shipping to your neck of the woods & its yours !
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