GL1800 Goldwing Trike Build with Pictures - Page 19 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #181 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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The last picture is the front of the trikeMan it feels good to start calling it a trike.
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post #182 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 09:17 AM
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Cobra
Keep up the good work ! I've been reading since the beginning of your thread. I really appreciate you posting your pictures and explanations of what you have done!

Bill
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post #183 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ogrebro,

I try to show everything I'm doing. This Saturday I have been sanding the body and reprime it again to get it ready for the paint. I will have to sand the rest of the bike due to changing the color. I will be posting more pictures when I start to do the paint work and show that.
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post #184 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 09:09 AM
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Wow You are doing great Its looking good.
one sugestion on the body wheel well alignment. before moving axel to correct. set trike straight om ground and measure from front axel on both sides from front to back axel center to center or from the swing pivot pont back to rear axel make shure its the same both sides . then if it is the same the axel is straight and the body needs adjusted to center wheel opening both sides .
if you adjust the axel out of squre by an 1/4" it will track toe out and wear tires out and be poor handeling.
you probably have already done these checks and if so My apoliges . but just sugesting.before moving axel to square body wheel openings

John3:16
The Road is long winding hilly flat hot cold sun stars AINT IT FUN!!!!
1st bike 125HD in 1969
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post #185 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Lightin for the information.

I had to tear down everything in order to set the body on for the final time. The brackets that holds the shock mounts comes out too far that the body wouldn't go over without removal. The trunk stay, frame and shock support has to bolt after the body is placed in position. After the body set in position and everything bolted up I took measurments off the original frame by the engine. I keep coming up with same but axle was off one inch. You could seeit in the wheelto fender. I finally look from the top view and guess what? The engine head sets back further on one side!!! I finally got a good measurment off the foot pegs.
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post #186 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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This past Saturday I sanded all parts and getting ready to start the painting this coming Saturday. I will be taking alot of pictures during this time. I have sealed the body and will start with a base coat of high flake silver that I had specially made. Once this is applied I let it set up and then lay down a striping design on fenders, trunk and side panels. Once this is done I'll spray several coats of candy blue and let tac up. Then I'll removed the taping and spray more coats of candy blue again. If all goes well it will bring a effect of two different colors even thought I'm spraying the same color. This part will be critical due to any mistakes you can't stop and sand out. Like runs. After everything is dried to touch then several coats of clear will be applied and dried for a few days. I'll hand rub the clear coats out with 2,000 wet and dry and re-apply several more coats of clear again. After several days again several coats of clear will give the deep effect of everything a should pull it all together.
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post #187 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here we go on the first part of the painting.

As I talked before I had a high flake silver made up to use as my base coat. I had the afternoon off so off to the garage I go! I finish the taping and painted two base coat on. Here are the pictures for that. It may look like alot of dust but it's flakes resting on the top.
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post #188 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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post #190 of 264 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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